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Thread: [FIXED] Refridge freezer and refridge won't cool - are at room temperature

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Refridge freezer and refridge won't cool - are at room temperature

    Model Number: PSS26NGPACC
    Brand: GE
    Age: 6-10 years

    Unit has been working fine for years and suddenly both freezer and refrigerator sections stopped cooling. Control panel shows correct setpoint temps for both sections but sensed temperatures on both sides display and are at room temperature.
    Last edited by Martin21; 07-05-2013 at 01:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Do you hear the compressor or any of the fans running?
    Ryan

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  3. #3

    Refridge freezer and refridge won't cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Martin21 View Post
    Model Number: PSS26NGPACC
    Brand: GE
    Age: 6-10 years

    Unit has been working fine for years and suddenly both freezer and refrigerator sections stopped cooling. Control panel shows correct setpoint temps for both sections but sensed temperatures on both sides display and are at room temperature.
    I hear a relay click immediately upon plugging in the fridge. I do hear a slight hum in the back and the fan comes on in the freezer section.

  4. #4
    I hear a relay click when plugging in the fridge and then a hum - I assume it's the compressor but not sure. After a couple of minutes the fan comes on in the freezer section.

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Does the refrigerator or freezer cool at all? Or are they both are room temperature?
    Ryan

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  6. #6
    Both are at room temperature - no cooling on either side. How's can I be sure the compressor is on?

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    You should be able to hear a low hum from the compressor when it is running. You will probably need to have the refrigerator pulled out and the back cover removed to easily to hear it. Also with the refrigerator unplugged if you can touch the top of the compressor and feel if it is hot, warm or room temperature.
    Ryan

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  8. #8
    I pulled off the back panel and was able to confirm that the compressor is not running. Compressor at room temp.
    Last edited by Martin21; 07-13-2013 at 11:34 AM.

  9. #9
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    If the compressor is not running and the compressor is at room temperature, then you could have a bad main control board that is not sending power to the compressor or a bad overload on the compressor. Do you hear any clicking noises coming from the main control board?
    Ryan

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  10. #10
    The only clicking noise from the main control board seems to be associated with the condensing coil fan - this fan comes on as soon as the fridge is plugged in and stays on.

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Do you have a volt meter or an A/C voltage detector? The next step is to check to see if power is being sent to the compressor.
    Ryan

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  12. #12
    Yes - I have a nice Fluke handheld multimeter.

  13. #13
    Okay here's what I find with the voltage checks. There are two orange colored wires (tied together at the connector) and one black wire from the connector. One of the orange wires goes into a two-terminal device mounted on the bottom of the fridge and comes back with a light colored wire into the compressor - the other orange wire and the black wire go directly to the compressor (i.e., there are a total of three wires that go into the compressor). When I back-probe the connector between the two orange colored wires (tied together) and black wire the voltage is zero. There does not appear to be power to the compressor.

  14. #14
    More info. Got a little ambitious and pulled off the panel to expose the main board - thought maybe I might see scorch mark indicating bad board. Didn't see any scorching but saw a connector that I suspected had the temp sensor inputs to the board. There were 3 pairs of white wires with one horizontal color stripe on each pair (green, black, blue). Each pair was split before coming into the connector with one wire from each going into a potted cylinder which had two red wires with a white stripe coming out. The connector received one wire each from the three pairs, one slightly larger white only wire, and one of red/white striped wires (five wires total). I suspected the red/white stripe wire was a common and measured resistance from each of the other four wires with respect to the red/white striped wire. I measured 4.64K ohms from the green, 4.66K ohms from the black, 4.65K ohms from the blue, and 4.85K ohms form the larger white wire. The temperature indicated by the fridge display was 82 degrees. It would seem that all the temp sensors are okay???
    Last edited by Martin21; 07-20-2013 at 09:55 PM.

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    There should be approximately 120V being sent to the compressor when the condenser fan motor is running (this is the fan motor next to the compressor behind the refrigerator), if you are not getting any power then most likely the main control board is bad. If there are any burn spots on the solder joints or scorch marks on the control board, then you should replace it. The temperature sensors should all read consistently. You can click the link below for more information on testing those sensors.

    http://partsdr.com/blog/how-to-test-...mistor-sensor/

    This is the main control board for your model:

    Main Control Board - Part # PD00000994 (mfg # WR55X10942)
    Ryan

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  16. #16
    That fixed it! Put in a new control board and fridge works fine - pretty easy to replace as board is directly accessible behind a panel at the lower right side on back of fridge, had to use a screw driver to break the gasket seal after removing the screws but no big deal. Note that all connectors are removed pulling directly away from board except the connector on the upper left side which required a screw driver to aid in sliding it to the left to remove. Noticed on the back of the "bad" board after removing a burned mark on one of the pins for a relay - looks like it may have come unsoldered. I suspect that if I would have re-flowed the solder on that pin it would have fixed the board. Oh well, fridge works again and that's what matters. Much thanks!
    Last edited by Martin21; 08-05-2013 at 12:17 AM.

  17. #17
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Great, I am glad that took care of your problem. I updated the status of the thread to FIXED. The reason the solder joint has a burned mark is usually because one of the components on the board failed. When the component starts to fail, it draws high amperage and burns out the control board. To permanently fix the problem the control board has to be replaced.
    Ryan

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