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Thread: GE Profile French Door Ice Maker not freezing

  1. #1

    GE Profile French Door Ice Maker not freezing

    Model Number: PFSS6PKWASS
    Brand: GE
    Age: 6-10 years

    Approximately 3 months ago, we noticed that the ice maker was not keeping up with our normal ice usage (Two adults). We would occasionally hear the rhythmic popping coming from the icemaker and did not know what to make of it. The ice maker finally stopped ejecting ice. When I removed the ice maker the ice would be frozen inside the icemaker but would not pop out. I removed the ice maker to let it thaw and then re-installed. It started working again and I thought that we were out of the woods. About 3 weeks later the ice maker stopped working completely. I visited PartsDr.com and ordered a new IMC701. It arrived a short time later and I performed the easy installation. The new ice maker did not work either. I noticed that their is water in the icemaker and in the ice bucket. I placed some ice in the ice maker to have a small gathering so that we could at least dispense from the front of the fridge. The ice that I placed in their began to melt and leak out of the door dispenser. I am stumped. I would like to check the fans that blow air from the freezer to the ice maker, however I am not sure how the remove the drawer and door from the bottom freezer. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I keep my cold settings at the factory recommended settings.

    Sean

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    From your description of your problem, it sounds like you have two different problems. If the ice maker was clicking, then it was bad and needed to be replaced. The other problem sounds like a cooling issue that the ice maker compartment is not getting cold enough. See the attached file below for instructions on removing the drawer. Let me know what you find is causing the cooling problem.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails drawerremoval.jpg  
    Ryan
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  3. #3
    I removed the rear panel in the freezer and found the left side fan and duct frozen solid. I thawed the two and reinstalled. The fridge is cooling back down now, so I guess tomorrow I will know if it works.

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    Last edited by vbquick1; 08-29-2013 at 10:37 AM.

  4. #4
    Just checked the ice bin before going to bed. The fridge and freezer temps were at the recommended temps and actual readings were the same. The temperature in the ice maker was 60 degrees......ugh. I am guessing that the fan below probably burned up since it had ice in it. Let me know what you think Doc.

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    How about the hole that the air travels through to get to the ice maker compartment. Did you make sure that was free of any ice/frost? Can you tell if the ice maker fan is working?
    Ryan
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  6. #6
    That's the hole that was frozen. I used a hair dryer to defrost the duct that runs to the freezer. I cannot tell if the fan is working...it is behind the rear panel when I put it all back together. Any ideas on how to test it? The fan was blocked with ice when I took it apart.

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The fans usually won't run unless the doors are closed. You could try holding the door switch closed and see if you can see the fan blade turning and hear it running. The duct could be frozen or frosted up higher than you can see it. Were any of the refrigerator or freezer door left open before this stopped working?
    Ryan
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  8. #8
    The refrigerator and freezer are functioning properly. No doors left open that I am aware of. I am not sure how it originally froze up. The duct seemed to be clear. I ran a hairdryer into it until the water stopped dripping out. Then I continued to work on it for about another hour and didn't see anything else dripping from it. The fridge started making a fast clicking noise yesterday, which I think may be that fan slowly spinning and hitting some ice. I am going to remove the freezer again and see if it the duct is frozen again. Can you please provide me with the part number for the fan because I think I am going to order it. I did take a picture of my mainClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	196board while I had everything apart and it appears that the chip on the bottom right is Load Rev 4.02. I will attach a pic. Do I need to upgrade the main board?

  9. #9
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    See the attached part diagram. Let me know which one is the fan motor for the ice maker. The software version on the control board looks good to me.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails PFSS6PKWASS.jpg  
    Ryan
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  10. #10
    It is the motor that turns fan #42. I cant tell which part number it is on the diagram.

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The motor for that is #44 in the diagram. I included a link to this part below.

    http://partsdr.com/part/wr60x10255-e...tor-fan-motor/
    Ryan
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  12. #12
    Ok, I installed the new fan motor and found that the duct was full of ice again. This time I defrosted everything and was able to confirm that I had no additional ice in the duct. I turned the water supply off before re-assembly. I reinstalled without any issues and upon plugging in the fridge found that the computer was throwing a code. This time only one instead of two. Prior to the new fan, I received a code advising that the freezer fan that was frozen was not spinning at the proper RPM or not spinning at all. Now I am getting a code that I believe is the ice compartment temperature sensor. This thing is winning the battle so far. Here is a pic of the code that the computer is spitting out. I am getting a temperature reading of 60 degrees in the ice compartment.

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  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    How much time did you give it for the ice maker compartment to cool down?
    Ryan
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  14. #14
    I measured it after the freezer got down to -2, still 60 degrees 3 days later.
    Last edited by vbquick1; 09-19-2013 at 11:50 PM.

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    See the attached file below with the information on the F-1-F error code.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails f1-f error.jpg  
    Ryan
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  16. #16
    Hey Doc, do you know where this sensor is located?

  17. #17
    Ok, I just pulled the fridge out again to access the back panel. I attempted to follow the instructions from your last post. This is what I did. I was not sure what pins were number what? The pins were not numbered as far as I could tell. The pin all the way to the right of CN75 was a ground so I figured that would be Pin #1. I then used the 3rd pin from the right on CN32. The reading was 4.7 volts. I am not sure if I was measuring the right pins, but if I was.....the voltage was out of bounds for the recommended readings. I will include pics below. I also found a diagram at the top right corner of the main board labeled "sensor checkpoint". Any ideas if that can be used?



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  18. #18
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I sent you an email.
    Ryan
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  19. #19
    The service manual indicated that I tested the correct pins. During self test the computer suggested that the ice compartment temp sensor (thermistor) was not functioning properly. That was the only code the fridge was throwing. I tested the Thermistor in the ice compartment and got a reading of 12.7 in a cup full of ice like the service manual suggested. This indicates that the thermistor is working properly. I reinstalled everything and it appears things have become worse.....This fridge is really testing my nerves. I now have several indications during the self test. I attached a copy below. I am at a loss at this point. Any ideas? I have the manual so I understand what codes it is throwing, I just dont understand why it is throwing them now and not before.

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    Last edited by vbquick1; 09-23-2013 at 07:40 PM.

  20. #20
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Well if it is giving an error code that the sensors are bad, but they are good, then you either have a bad control board or a wiring problem. Sometimes with a bad control board, it will give a false error codes for parts that aren't actually bad. The most common control board that we see fail is the main control board, but there is a possibility that a different control board could be bad too.

    This is the main control board for your model refrigerator:

    Main Control Board - WR55X10763
    Ryan
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