Kitchenaid ice maker not working

[suracif]

Model Number: KSRS25ILBT03
Brand: KitchenAid
Age: 6-10 years

I saw an on-line video that showed light emitter to receiver being used to determine when ice is full, and shuts of ice maker. I looked at my emitter and did not see any light. LED continually blinks twice, pauses,,,,
I just replaced the 4389102 emitter and receiver and still see no light from the emitter. Any suggetions? Thank you. Frank

[Doc Ryan]

The light from the emitter is infrared and cannot be seen by the human eye. It is sometimes can be seen by some cameras. If you replaced the optic control boards with a new OEM part, it should have included an instruction sheet. If you follow those directions, it should tell you how to do some diagnostics. If the optic control boards are good, then you could have a bad ice maker or a bad water inlet valve.

[suracif]

Doc Ryan,

Thanks Good learning point to get that clarified re human eye. Yes, I got the Instruction Sheet with some diagnostics, but I would expect the LED to go to "steady" on (as shown in on-line videos) if the emitter is working, however, I still get the two LED pulses continuously, even when I tape back the left flap and the top light switch - as if the door is closed. I am thinking that perhaps the emitter and receiver are not lined up correctly, and I can only think about loosening the screws on either side and try to move them slightly. I see that I can also do some checks on the actual ice maker ("T" to "H" jumper) to see if it is working. Water comes out of the door but no water goes into the ice maker. There could be a second water inlet valve for the ice maker? or a frozen section in the line? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks
Frank

[suracif]

I am down to the water inlet valve. Is there any way to test it first? Thank you.
Frank

[Doc Ryan]

There are two solenoids on the water inlet valve, one is for the water dispenser and one is for the ice maker. On some models you can unplug the refrigerator and swap the wire terminals from ice maker solenoid to the dispenser solenoid on the water inlet valve and vice versa. When you do this you can plug the refrigerator back in and press the water dispenser paddle for 5-10 seconds and it should fill up the ice maker with water. When you are done unplug the refrigerator and put the wire connectors back in their original places. If it doesn't then you have either a bad water valve or a frozen water line to the ice maker. If the water line is frozen, the water valve is leaking and will need to be replaced to keep the water line from re-freezing. To check for a frozen water line to the ice maker, unplug the refrigerator and remove the water line from the water inlet valve. You should be able to blow through this line. If you can't, then the line is frozen.

This is the water inlet valve for your model:

Water Inlet Valve - W10408179

[suracif]

As mentioned somewhere, the instructions were contained in the refrigerator lower grill which said to hold down the door switch and push the water dispenser and a yellow light should come on. It did light yellow. When doing the same procedure for the ice dispenser, a red light should come on. It did not come on indicating that the water inlet valve is bad. I just purchased the water inlet valve from you ( just in case it's bad). The refrigerator is currently empty and an hour's drive, so I will perform the checks you recommend soon. I am thinking that leaving the refrigerator turned off for a couple of days could also remove any possibility of a frozen line. Hopefully, I will get to the correct solution soon. This is a learning experience. Thanks

[Doc Ryan]

Let me know how the repair goes for you.

[suracif]

Update: I will rundown what I have done todate to get the ice maker working again. Replaced the water filter, replaced the emitter & receiver, disconnected the water line to the ice maker and blew in to verify that the line is not frozen. replaced the water inlet valve. Results to date is still no ice, and no water into the ice maker. I used the jumper to "T and H". The white wheel has rotated over time, but I thought I would get an immediate turning of the wheel after turning on the power with the jumper in place. I did not see it turn. Not sure that the jumper did anything. Perhaps I need to wait over night and see if there is a change.
Then that leaves me with only the ice maker to replace. I also did run the valve test again. I got the yellow light as expected when using the water dispenser. However. I did not get the expected Red light when pressing the ice dispenser. The instructions say if both the yellow and the red indicator lights, then the water valve is functioning properly. Since the red light did not come on that means there is something wrong with the valve. Perhaps I did not do the ice dispenser part of the test correctly. Any suggestions? Thank you.

[Doc Ryan]

If the freezer is cooling down to the proper temperature 0-5F then the only thing left is a bad ice maker. The ice maker will not start to make ice until is has cooled down to the proper temperature. Don't leave that jumper installed in the ice maker, you could flood your house if you leave that installed. When installing the jumper in the ice maker, it should cycle and move at a steady rate. It doesn't move at a very slow rate. I looked at the service sheet for your refrigerator to see the information you are referring to about the red and yellow lights. It doesn't state in the sheet what the results of that test are actually concluding? On most of these refrigerators, the ice maker operates on a separate circuit.

This is the ice maker for your model refrigerator:

Ice Maker Assembly - 2198597