Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: hotpoint oven, replaced control now f4, disconect sensor f3?sensor is 16 ohm and good

  1. #1

    hotpoint oven, replaced control now f4, disconect sensor f3?sensor is 16 ohm and good

    Model Number: rb755gt
    Brand: Hotpoint
    Age: More than 10 years

    My hotpoint oven quit working on oven portion. Control panel all lights on red, wrong time unsettable etc. so i replced control. Now clock is perfect but when you turn it on it beeps and flashed f4. Checked the sensor and it shows 16 ohms and should be good? If I disconect sensor it then reads f3. Cant find any shorts but i think it all started when tenant pushed bottom element to the left and bumped the grounded casing. The element does show ohms and appers good. What do I check next. I haven't found any short and the element is back in its position. One time after disconncting it worked for about 5 seconds and the bottom element started to get hot then it went to f4 again.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    4,230
    The F3 & F4 error codes on GE (they make Hotpoint) ovens typically mean an open or shorted temperature sensor. The temperature sensor should read approximately 1080 ohms at room temperature on most ovens. Your model number is missing a few digits at the end... can you double check it for me? Make sure you get the model number from the tag on the range.

    You can read this post on how to test the oven temperature sensor probe.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
    - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories


    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

    Check out our Repair Videos on Youtube

    "Like" Parts Dr on Facebook


    Follow Parts Dr on Twitter

  3. #3
    That was a number on the schematic sheet. The number on the door is RB755got2wh. The "2" looks like a backward "C" or "Z" or cursive "2". The schematic said it should read 16 ohms and the sensor reads 16.3 and up to 17 ohms at room temp. schematic says high temp after cleaning mode would read 70 ohms. If the sensor is bad at 16 then good i can replace it. If The new control was sent to me bad i'm in worse shape as it was $200. The control seems to work as the old one was erratic. this one has good clock but shows f4 when you turn oven on and f3 if turned on with sensor disconnected. I have looked at every inch of wires and they look good. I retried all connectors and cleaned. This ohm reading difference "should be 16 or should be 1080 is very important and could be the problem. Just don't know why they would have me check for 16 ohms(per the schematic on the back of unit?) The oven is white with black control area by the way. If this is the likely culprit i could buy the sensor (they want 50 plus shipping) just hated to buy one if readings would be the same. Just checked your sensor info and imine looks just like the short one with no connectors instead the wires are crimped.

  4. #4
    I'm going to recheck schem. I must have picked up on an element ohm reading or wrong part to test. 1080 to 1100 is sounding like the ticket. Will check back tomorrow with results.

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    4,230
    According to your model number, your range uses part number WB21X158 temperature sensor. This temp sensor is supposed to be approximately 16 ohms at room temp. It is the only one that I know of that doesn't use the normal ohm scale (1080 ohms at room temp). Your problem is most likely going to be either a bad control board, bad temp sensor, or bad/shorted wiring.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
    - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories


    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

    Check out our Repair Videos on Youtube

    "Like" Parts Dr on Facebook


    Follow Parts Dr on Twitter

  6. #6
    I checked the schem again and it does say 15 room and 70 clean temp. Since i replaced the control already, i might have to go with the 1080 ohm now if this control is more modern? The part i bought is WB27K5251 and maybe it has to have the 1080, otherwise there is nothing left to check as all the wiring checks out. Any way to check if WB27K5251 needs the 1080 ohm? I realy do appreciate the help,
    Mark

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    4,230
    When I look up the control board for you model number, I come up with part number WB27K5128. It has been discontinued by the manufacturer. This is probably why you are having issues... I don't think you have the correct control board. The board that you have could possibly use the standard 1080 ohm type sensor, but there is no way to know if the rest of the things on the control board will operate the same.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
    - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories


    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

    Check out our Repair Videos on Youtube

    "Like" Parts Dr on Facebook


    Follow Parts Dr on Twitter

  8. #8
    Since there is no other circuitry its the only hope left. I'm going to try the 1080 plug it in and see if i get an error.

  9. #9
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    4,230
    Sounds like it is your only chance of getting it working. Good luck.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
    - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories


    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

    Check out our Repair Videos on Youtube

    "Like" Parts Dr on Facebook


    Follow Parts Dr on Twitter

  10. #10
    Works great. If you change to a newer control you of course need to make sure it will fit. Same buttons and same connector layout. Then you can verify the sensor is correct if you use a newer brain. So when a local tech. told me it was obsolete and needed a new oven, that wasn't the case, you just have to match the sensor with the control. Thanks for tipping me off on the ohms difference.
    mark

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
    Posts
    4,230
    You're welcome, I am glad you got it going.
    Ryan

    PartsDr.com
    - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories


    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

    Check out our Repair Videos on Youtube

    "Like" Parts Dr on Facebook


    Follow Parts Dr on Twitter

Similar Threads

  1. water level sensor not working correctly
    By WayneO in forum Washer Repair
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 02-26-2012, 04:12 PM
  2. Kenmore range burners work, but oven and control do nothing
    By Chomp33 in forum Range, Oven, & Cooktop Repairs
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 05-08-2011, 10:02 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •