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Thread: Whirlpool Dryer Always Heating

  1. #1

    Exclamation Whirlpool Dryer Always Heating

    Model Number: WED9400SW0
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    Although this issue has been dealt with before I am not able to figure out a working solution. Here is the history. While I was traveling my wife called me to tell me that the laundry was getting hot to the touch. She called the following day to say the dryer no longer was working. When I got home I saw that the dryer vent became clogged where it exited the house (the little flap). Other than the clogged vent the dryer seemed to be in perfect operating condition. I could press the "power on" button and I could choose any of the cycles, timed dry, etc.... and it reacted properly. However, when I pressed and held the "Start" button it would click, as if it wanted to start, but it wouldn't start. I went into the diagnostic mode and saw the F30 error code indicating "restricted airflow condition". I have since performed the following:

    * I thoroughly cleaned all the venting from lint trap, through the inside of the dryer, all the way outside. Clean as a whistle.
    * I found the thermal fuse at the blower to have blown (no continuity). I replaced the fuse (3392519) and the thermistor (8577274)next to it.
    * I turned on the dryer and it ran like a champ for 1 load. 2nd load the laundry was too hot to touch and I encountered the same situation with the start button making a clicking sound but the dryer not starting.
    * I found the fuse (3392519) had blown again and so I replaced it.
    * This time I left the dryer in a state where I could monitor it very closely (panels off).
    * With the new fuse, the dryer will turn on and seems to function again, BUT, the heating element seems to always turn on (heating element turns on even in "air only" mode)
    * Having read that people had similar issues I checked the heating element carefully to see if it had shorted to the chassis or the frame in any way. It had not. I got desperate and replaced the heating element (8544771) anyway.
    * I then ordered new thermal cutoff (280148) which includes the Hi Limit thermostat (8557403)
    * The parts arrived and I replaced the thermal cutoff (280148) but the Hi Limit thermostat got damaged in shipping. I am now waiting for another Hi Limit Thermostat.
    * With the new thermal cutoff the dryer is acting the exact same way (heating element comes on in air dry only mode, or any other mode). I do not let it run long enough to trip the thermal fuse.
    * I am not sure the replacement Hi Limit Thermostat will help since I have checked continuity on the old one and it seems okay
    * I understand that continuity is not a thorough check of the Hi Limit Thermostat's functionality and I am thinking that there may be a way to put the dryer in diagnostic mode and test the ohms. I am hesitant because I do not want to stick my hand in the dryer when it is plugged in and I am afraid the fuse will blow in the short time I am taking measurements

    Is this the sort of thing that points to a control board? I am already into this dryer for ~$200 and am feeling stumped. Family of five and a lot of laundry os backing up. I am lucky to have an appliance repair place nearby that has many parts, although they are not nearly as helpful as this forum and the parts and prices I can get from PartsDr.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    It sounds like you have done a good job of diagnosing your drying so far. I think the clogged vent originally caused your problem(s) with the dryer... so make sure to keep that clean in the future to prevent more problems.

    The thermistor on the blower housing is what normally controls the temperature of the dryer. Once the thermistor senses that the dryer has reached a certain temperature, the element will turn off. Once it cools down to a certain temperature, it turns the element back on, and it repeats the cycle over and over. The high limit thermal fuse and thermostat on the housing of the heating element are a 2nd set of safeties that shut off the heating element if it gets too hot. There is no easy way to test the high limit thermostat in a dryer, if it has continuity then it should be heating, but that doesn't mean that it will turn off the element at the correct temperature. If you suspect the thermostat is bad, then I would replace it. The dryer does not normally cycle on the high limit thermostat when everything is working properly... it is designed as a safety. If it is cycling off the high limit thermostat, then the dryer has other problems (poor venting, shorted element, ect).

    There are only three things that would make the dryer heat on the air dry cycle. A shorted heating element, which causes the heating element to stay on all of the time. Heating elements warp and become shorted out from poor venting. There could be a short in the wring somewhere (not very common). The only other thing that could cause the heating element to stay on would be the control board. The control board sends power to the heating element, and if it failed, it could constantly send power to the element. If your old heating element had shorted out, it could have burned out the control board. It looks the control board that sends the power to the element should be part number W10110641, but I don't have a schematic for your dryer to confirm that 100%.
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    It sounds like the contacts on the relay for the heating element have welded themselves together causing the element to stay on whe the dryer is running. A quick way to verify is to select air dry and give the relay a "whack" with a screwdriver handle. The element will most likely go out at that time. If so, then you'll know for sure to replace the control board.

  4. #4

    Identical problem as yours, what is solution

    I have a very similar model (WED6200SW), It has the same components. I already replaced the thermal fuse (3392519) several times, the operating thermostat (8577274) and the High limit Thermostat. My heating element is in fine condition and not shorted out. Did you end up replacing the control panel, scrap the dryer or find another problem? My wife wants me to go buy another dryer before replacing the board. The dryer is only 3 years old and I hate to junk something that new that has been used very little. Any thoughts? I would appreciate hearing back from you
    Thanks Todd (410-602-2589)


    Quote Originally Posted by enodog View Post
    Model Number: WED9400SW0
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    Although this issue has been dealt with before I am not able to figure out a working solution. Here is the history. While I was traveling my wife called me to tell me that the laundry was getting hot to the touch. She called the following day to say the dryer no longer was working. When I got home I saw that the dryer vent became clogged where it exited the house (the little flap). Other than the clogged vent the dryer seemed to be in perfect operating condition. I could press the "power on" button and I could choose any of the cycles, timed dry, etc.... and it reacted properly. However, when I pressed and held the "Start" button it would click, as if it wanted to start, but it wouldn't start. I went into the diagnostic mode and saw the F30 error code indicating "restricted airflow condition". I have since performed the following:

    * I thoroughly cleaned all the venting from lint trap, through the inside of the dryer, all the way outside. Clean as a whistle.
    * I found the thermal fuse at the blower to have blown (no continuity). I replaced the fuse (3392519) and the thermistor (8577274)next to it.
    * I turned on the dryer and it ran like a champ for 1 load. 2nd load the laundry was too hot to touch and I encountered the same situation with the start button making a clicking sound but the dryer not starting.
    * I found the fuse (3392519) had blown again and so I replaced it.
    * This time I left the dryer in a state where I could monitor it very closely (panels off).
    * With the new fuse, the dryer will turn on and seems to function again, BUT, the heating element seems to always turn on (heating element turns on even in "air only" mode)
    * Having read that people had similar issues I checked the heating element carefully to see if it had shorted to the chassis or the frame in any way. It had not. I got desperate and replaced the heating element (8544771) anyway.
    * I then ordered new thermal cutoff (280148) which includes the Hi Limit thermostat (8557403)
    * The parts arrived and I replaced the thermal cutoff (280148) but the Hi Limit thermostat got damaged in shipping. I am now waiting for another Hi Limit Thermostat.
    * With the new thermal cutoff the dryer is acting the exact same way (heating element comes on in air dry only mode, or any other mode). I do not let it run long enough to trip the thermal fuse.
    * I am not sure the replacement Hi Limit Thermostat will help since I have checked continuity on the old one and it seems okay
    * I understand that continuity is not a thorough check of the Hi Limit Thermostat's functionality and I am thinking that there may be a way to put the dryer in diagnostic mode and test the ohms. I am hesitant because I do not want to stick my hand in the dryer when it is plugged in and I am afraid the fuse will blow in the short time I am taking measurements

    Is this the sort of thing that points to a control board? I am already into this dryer for ~$200 and am feeling stumped. Family of five and a lot of laundry os backing up. I am lucky to have an appliance repair place nearby that has many parts, although they are not nearly as helpful as this forum and the parts and prices I can get from PartsDr.

  5. #5

    Problem solved

    Quote Originally Posted by DIYTodd View Post
    I have a very similar model (WED6200SW), It has the same components. I already replaced the thermal fuse (3392519) several times, the operating thermostat (85774274) and the High limit Thermostat. My heating element is in fine condition and not shorted out. Did you end up replacing the control panel, scrap the dryer or find another problem? My wife wants me to go buy another dryer before replacing the board. The dryer is only 3 years old and I hate to junk something that new that has been used very little. Any thoughts? I would appreciate hearing back from you
    Thanks Todd (410-602-2589)
    I ended up replacing the control panel. The problem was the relay soldered onto the control panel, was sticking and not opening the circuit that supplies electricity to the heater. I realized this after I tried running the dryer on air-only and the exhaust was hot. Too bad I had to replace then entire control panel since the relay did not have any part number on it

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Todd,

    I am glad you figured out the problem. Thank you for sharing your feedback with us. The appliance manufactures do not sell individual components on the control boards, they recommend to replace the control board assembly if there is a failure.
    Ryan

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