Frigidaire Broiler and Self Clean cycle doesn't work

[thxnoir]

Model Number: PLES389DCC
Brand: Frigidaire
Age: 6-10 years

The cooktop and bake modes work, but in either the broiler or self clean modes, they cycle on for 30+ sec and then shut off. The display will show 550° for the broiler and 3:00 for the self-clean modes when selected. I hear a relay click when I select each mode. I'm not sure if one is related to the other but here is what I know about the system.

I measured the resistance of the broiler and oven sensor (disconnected). They measure 20 ohms and 1.05k ohms, respectively.
The voltage from P2 to L2 OUT is 6 mV in broil mode
The voltage from P3 to L2 OUT is 206 V in bake mode
The voltage from P2 to L2 OUT & P3 to L2 OUT is 212 V on off mode
I also measured 121 V from the case to broiler terminals

And just for fun I checked the latch release relay. From the case to the each of the 3 terminals it measured 21.3 V when the self-clean mode was off. And 22.6 V when it was on?

[Doc Ryan]

I cannot follow all of what you did because they do not label the connections on the schematic the same as what you listed. If the control board does not send 210-240V to the broil element when you turn on the broil cycle, then you have a bad control board. I would probably replace the oven sensor at the same time just in case it is acting up intermittently. I am not sure if you are having one problem or multiple problems? From what I can tell the latch motor for locking the door should be operating on 120v.

These are the parts for your model:

Clock/Timer - 316272204

Oven Temperature Sensor - 316217002

[thxnoir]

Thanks for your great feedback, Ryan. I appreciate it.

I feared that it would be the control board. Do you know where i can find more info on the board? I'd like to troubleshoot it if possible. Also, I noticed that the white insulation at the Temp Sensor looked a little more burned than elsewhere but it has the correct resistance. Do you think it's still bad?

Unfortunately, I didn't measure the latch motor because I didn't have the correct probes with me to access the connector while it was hot. I'll try that next time and look for 120 V.

As for the schematic, I measured what I thought was both side of the bake and broil elements at the control board. On the schematic and the board the terminals are labeled as (see photo):
P2 BROIL
P3 BAKE
P8 L2 OUT


Thanks again.

[Doc Ryan]

It usually easiest to measure the element voltage on the two terminals on the element, that way there is no way to mistakenly have the wrong terminals. What information on the control board are you looking for?

[thxnoir]

6 mV across the broiler coils in broil mode. Bummer.

I was hoping to track down the offending component. It might just be something simple - a cap or relay or something. If there was a schematic for the control board, it would make that much easier. Thanks.

[Doc Ryan]

The manufacture does not recommend repairing individual components on the control board, so they do not offer any information on it.

[thxnoir]

The manufacture does not recommend repairing individual components on the control board, so they do not offer any information on it.

Thanks. Maybe I'll just suck it up and buy the board. I'd rather pay $1.35 for relay than $225.00 for a board but I'm running out of time.

Thanks again for your help.

[Doc Ryan]

You're welcome! Let me know the outcome of the repair after you get it fixed.