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Thread: New oven bake/broil Ignitors not working, and only 60v power at ignitor wires.

  1. #1

    New oven bake/broil Ignitors not working, and only 60v power at ignitor wires.

    Model Number: rsd369
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Hello, I am having a problem with two new ignitors not glowing in either the bake, or the broiler, positions on a Caloric, RSD369, oven. (These are the 2nd and 3rd new ignitors I have bought).

    These two new ignitors (#2 and #3) are made by Electrolux (part 5303935067) - the square shaped ceramic ones.

    I did an ohms test on my two new ignitors, and they were 170, and 186, respectively (I had one repair shop guy tell me the ohms should be over 300 on a new ignitor - so I am also wondering if I just bought two ignitors that are not good? But I have read online that 50-150 ohms is good for ignitors).

    I am getting just under 60 volts (58v) to the wires where the ignitors connect (with the temp knob and bake/broil knob turned on). Is 58v too low to make ignitors glow? if 58v is too low, where would I look next to find the problem? (It seems to me that the low 60v at the lines - is what the problem would be, and not the 170 and 186 ignitor resistances?)

    Also, I have to mention as some background info, that before trying these two new ignitors(#2 and #3) I had this happen to me with the 1st new ignitor I bought - I put on that 1st new ignitor, and initially it did not glow - but after turning the control knobs several times - I did see glow and got gas ignition. But it was intermittent. (I think I accidentally burned that ignitor, and is why I bought two more. I believe I burned that oven ignitor, when I accidentally let the two wires for the broiler element ground out. After that, the first ignitor would no longer glow, and I removed it, and ohm'd it - and it had 0 ohm's and no continuity. (I never read voltage at ignitor wires at that time).

    Could that accidental ground I caused, have done additional damage, and be the reason I am only getting 60v now at both the oven and broiler ignitor wires?

    So, any help as to what to test next, would be appreciated.

    Forgot to mention, all four top burners are igniting and flaming. Seems to indicate gas valve is good?
    Last edited by mnalep; 07-09-2013 at 03:40 PM.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    We do not recommend doing an ohm test on a glow bar ignitor, as we do not find it is an accurate test. Most ignitors of this style operate on 120v so I would assume that is what the problem is. When the wire shorted it out, it could have caused damage to the gas valve and/or thermostat and that could be causing your voltage problem. The gas valve for the oven is separate from the top burners, so the top burners can work and the gas valve can still be bad.
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Ryan, thanks for the reply.

    What would be the best way for me to test the thermostat, and gas valve? Would I do Ohms testing? voltage testing? And how would I do testing using either ohms, or voltage, on these parts. I was thinking that perhaps the broil/bake selector switch could be bad also.

    Is there a more likely part, given that the 58v -60v voltage is about half of what it should be? I mean, for example the igniters require the selector and thermostat dial both be on. Does that mean each might switch on 60v to, combine to 120v, so one of those must be bad? This may sound silly, but I don't deal with electrical appliances very often.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I don't have the schematic for your stove, so I can't give you much more details on how the electrical system works. I looked up your model number and it looks like the gas valve and thermostat have both been discontinued by the manufacture and these parts are no longer available.
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    Well I decided to try and inspect the temp control switch and the bake/broil control switch. I thougth maybe the problem was in either of those.

    There were 12 wires on the bake/broil and 7 wires on the temp switch. I did not know where to even begin.

    I had the two wires from the broiler element exposed, without the ignitor on them.

    So I decided to try and find continuity from the broiler wires and the switches.

    I was able to locate 1 wire on each of the two switches, where there was continuity when the switches were OFF.

    But when I turned the switches on, 6 wires from the bake/broil had continuity to the one broiler wire, and 4 wires from the temp switch had continuity to the same broiler wire.

    Only 1 of the two broiler wires would show continuity to either switch. ... does this help you as far as being able to tell me how to test for voltage on the switches?

    I am afraid of touching incorrect wires and shorting something out when searching for 60v where I should have 120v. But ti seems that if I only have 60v at the ignitor wires, then either of these switches must be passing 60v instead of 120v, right?

    I do not know what to do now? How do I safely test for voltage from each switch, if that is even what I should be doing?
    Last edited by mnalep; 07-11-2013 at 12:39 AM.

  6. #6
    Any idea where I can find wiring diagram for this Caloric RSD369 oven?

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    We do not have a copy of the wiring diagram for your model. I would need the wiring diagram or schematic to help you with this further. The schematic is usually located on the appliance somewhere.
    Ryan

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  8. #8
    No schematic anywhere. Any diea where i might search for one?

  9. #9
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I'm sorry, I do not. Information on an appliance of this age is very limited.
    Ryan

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