[FIXED] Samsung DV337AER/XAA Thermal Fuse problems

[EvinWilkerson]

Samsung DV337AER/XAA Thermal Fuse problems
Hey Doc
I too have been having some issues with my Samsung dryer. It comes on just no heat. Naturally I assumed heating element so I took it apart and did a continuity test. Element was fine. Tested the rest to find out the thermal fuse manufacturers part number DC 96-00887A was out. So I ordered a new one, installed. Easy fix. Until it blew again halfway through the first load. I will order another thermal fuse but hoped to order the underlined problem as well. I didn't want to keep popping fuses.
It's free of lent. The airway is clear. There is not a short in the element read at 10ohms. If their is something I can test without having the new thermal fuse yet to discover the extra part I need to order to fix this please let me know. And I will order from partsdr promptly
Thank you Evin

[Doc Ryan]

Evin,

If the heating element is in good condition and not shorted, then I would first check to make sure your exhaust venting is not restricted or clogged. Next, I would test the thermistor (see video below for instructions). Next, I would try running the dryer on an Air Dry (no heat) only cycle to see if it still heats up. If the dryer still heats on the no heat cycle then you have a bad main control board. Let us know what you find.



These are the parts for your model dryer:

Thermistor - Part # PD00001996 (mfg # DC32-00007A)


Main Control Board - Part # PD00002079 (mfg # MFS-DV327L-00)

[EvinWilkerson]

Tested, no continuity in thermistor. I just added one to my cart as well as a new thermal fuse. Should I just replace all the fuses while I'm it there they are only $6-$9 ea that's worth me not having to tear into this thing every 6 months. Are there any other under lining problems that could cause the thermal fuse to keep going out or causing the thermistor to go out in turn making the fuse pop? I just trying to figure it out before I order to save on shipping.

No clogs in vents

[Doc Ryan]

A continuity test will not work on the thermistor since it has to read a specific ohm reading at a specific temperature. The other fuses do not need to be replaced unless they are bad.

[EvinWilkerson]

I measure ohms with no reading, perhaps my electrical terminology is of but either way I believe the thermistor is bad.. So I will order the the thermistor and a new thermal fuse. Are there anyother parts I should look at before I place my order? Or are the chances good that the thermistor was what was causing the thermal fuse to go bad after half a load of laundry on the "normal" setting even though there were no error messages. Or are the odds good that the main board is faulty too?

[Doc Ryan]

The ohm meter must be set to a high enough setting to read the thermistor, on most meters it is the 20k setting. It should register some value, if it doesn't register anything then the dryer should be giving a thermistor error code.

[EvinWilkerson]

With me ohm meter set at 20k my thermistor read 11.57 and I just ordered a new one, wish I'd of read this 1st hopefully I can amend my order before it ships, what do I need to order instead? The main board?

[Doc Ryan]

I am thinking it might be the main control board that is bad and it could be causing the heating element to stay on and overheat.

[EvinWilkerson]

Okay, so I reinstall my thermal fuse. Select air fluff, hold the door open holding the door switch button and if the cycle get hot after a minute or so then it's for sure my main board, right?

[Doc Ryan]

You will want to leave the door closed while running it on the air fluff cycle. Let it run for 2-3 minutes and then stop the dryer and open the door to see if it is warm inside.

[EvinWilkerson]

Upon receiving my new main board and thermal fuse from parts dr, I changed out both, checked airways and ducts and started the fluff cycle. After a few minutes I paused the cycle, no heat(a good thing) I switched to normal cycle, it gets nice a toasty and after approximately 7-8 loads of backed up laundry everything still works as they should! Thank you Doc Ryan you've been very helpful, the only thing to do is change the thread title to FIXED!

[Doc Ryan]

Thanks for the update, I am glad this took care of your problem! I have updated the status of this thread to FIXED.

[EvinWilkerson]

Well I knew I shouldn't of posted about it being fixed.... Not heat again, time to rip apart and start testing fuses.. Maybe my vents aren't good enough which really worries me because my next house the vent is ran about 30ft through the roof, maybe i should start looking into other dryers or some sort of dryer blower fan or something, maybe this dryer's problems are on me but I vote poor design..

[Doc Ryan]

How many 90 and 45 bends are there in the venting during that 30 ft? If you haven't already, I would like into hiring a professional dryer vent cleaning company to clean the venting for you.