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Thread: [FIXED] JennAir F1-07 fault code

  1. #41
    I have the same issue. Which part no 74009320 or 74007234? There are 2 boards listed but I can't figure out which is the right one.

    My Stove:
    MODEL JES9800AAS
    SERIAL 16233595EN

  2. #42
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swjones10 View Post
    Doc,

    My Jenn Air model # is JES9860AAW and serial number is 19276216AT and needs is displaying the F1-7 code. Is this the correct control panel?
    http://partsdr.com/part/74005748-tou...l-panel-white/
    Just wanting to verify before I order it.

    Thanks
    Yes, this is the correct one.
    Ryan
    www.PartsDr.com - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories

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  3. #43
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dps View Post
    I have the same issue. Which part no 74009320 or 74007234? There are 2 boards listed but I can't figure out which is the right one.

    My Stove:
    MODEL JES9800AAS
    SERIAL 16233595EN
    This part varies depending on the serial number from the range. Your serial number uses part number 74009320 for the clock control board. Below is a link to the touchpad control panel.

    Control Panel Assembly - Part # PD00003678 (mfg # 74005747)
    Ryan
    www.PartsDr.com - Discount Appliance Parts & Accessories

    Please help keep our repair forum FREE by purchasing your replacement parts from our online store. Thank you for your support.

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  4. #44

    F1-7 Error JDS8850AAS

    Hi Doc,

    I have JDS8850AAS with the F1-7 error. Thanks for all the information here. I understand it is the control panel, cable or control board. Is there anyway I can find out which or the parts has failed? Do you know if other control panels from later models will work?

    Is this a repair I can complete myself? I will take off the control panel tonight and inspect it. It is potentially a poor design as water can get into the electronic area.

    Anyhow, any help or advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks..Chigaro

  5. #45
    Quote Originally Posted by Richard Katz View Post
    Okay, my JennAir range/oven is working now, and I'd like to share some of the newbie experience I just had with the other newbies looking for help with their stricken JennAir. First, you need to get clear on what is meant in this context by "control panel" and "control panel assembly". The control panel for the stove = range/oven is what might commonly be called a keyboard, or touchpad, like on a laptop, a set of little buttons to push to issue commands to the stove; but what's confusing is that this keyboard is built in, and I mean solidly built right inside of, a big piece of steel just like in the PartsDr picture, that you can see on your stove. When you order a new keypad, or control panel, or control panel assembly, whatever you end up calling it, you are going to be astounded that you just bought this huge piece of steel just to get a new little plastic keyboard because a few of the membranes inside the keypad went on the fritz. Second, when you get around to actually replacing your great big control panel assembly --- because your keypad is issuing commands all by itself like a deranged telegraph operator -- you need to take a deep breath and contemplate the task and go for the LEAST number of screws to unscrew and reassemble later. It turns out that there are eight screws to get the great big assembly off the stove (and oh by the way, you really should rig up some way to support that big heavy assembly whilst you are working on it; I used a 2x4 that was supported by the pulled-out drawers on either side of the stove, with a few more shims here and there; you know, dunnage; cribbing.) Those eight screws consist of four Philips head on the sides and four hexhead on the underside, that you get to by opening the oven door, and looking up. Now remove the old control panel assembly, as far as the wiring will allow you to. That's not so easy to do, because there is a little angle-iron piece screwed into the top of the assembly that you have to sneak under the stovetop. Maybe there's a trick to that, but seems to me you have to manhandle it pretty severely, and that stovetop is heavy and wants to bite your fingers.
    Now look at the new part, and look at the old still wired to the (hopefully totally dead meaning un-plugged) stove, and you'll see that you need not disassemble ANY of the circuit board at ALL. You see that you have to pull the mylar ribbon cable, because you see that it is the ONLY part sticking out from the new control assembly module and you can see where it goes. I can't really help you on how to get that ribbon cable to nicely get removed from it's receptacle on the old control panel assembly-- the black receptacle with the two little pin-like protrusions you can see if you pry it a little bit perpendicular to the way the ribbon is running. Somebody could make a really elegant Youtube video of just how to do that. mostly, you bend the middle of the black receptacle to make sure the two little tiny pins you see are free of the cable (which has two holes to hold those pins); and then you pull on the ribbon cable, and pray. You DON'T have to worry about screwing up that cable because it's the old one; it's junk. The new one will slide in later, just fine, and sort of auto-clamp itself, like a barb. Now that you've got the ribbon cable freed up, you can see that there are four hexhead screws that hold the circuit board; and that there are two screws each that hold each one of the four burner adjusters, after you pull off the burner knobs. You may have little red lights above the burner adjusters; you can SLIDE the white light"boxes" to the side, sliding each one off the little red plastic that is the "light" stalk. The little red light stalks pop out if you press them; make sure you aim them somewhere that you know where they aren't going to disappear. After you have freed the burner adjusters from the "control panel assembly" ; and have freed the circuit board from the control panel assembly (it's surrounded by cardboard, but you'll figure that out); you can remove the old control panel assembly.
    Nothing tricky about reassembling the whole thing. You already know all the steps. I hope you figured out some way to hold the new assembly up in the right place and fairly level while you are working on it, assembling the burner adjusters to it and getting the circuit board in, with its crazy wall of cardboard around it. There is ONE fragile part on that circuit board, in the very front in the center; an electronic component that looks like it's easily bent and it sure is. I can assure you that you get at least one chance to bend it by mistake, for free.
    Maybe you happen to be like me, and you have a JES9860AAS Jenn Air , the one that has a griddle and two burners all electric; and of course a downdraft convected electric oven. If it turns out that, like me, you couldn't get a PD00003678 (mfr # 74005747) because it is out of stock, you CAN if you have the stomach for it, order a PD00005649 mfr 74005747 and ... gasp ... enlarge the center hole for the burner adjusters a little on each "end" to accommodate the burner adjusters that came with that model; ie take a 5/32 chainsaw file and put little ears on the outside of the center hole like mouse ears but straight out to the side; mount your burner adjusters; and your're good to go. Near as I can tell, the control panel inside the control panel aseembly = the keypad; the keyboard is the same; works the same, anyway. Not for the faint of heart. MIght be a good deal easier to just get the right part, if in fact they're still making it. PartsDr had the wrong part cheap enough that it was worth it to me to jerry-rig it for my all-electric model Jenn-Air.
    And BTW we just LOVE our Jenn Air.
    Richard, I wanted to thank you for your detailed description on how to replace the touchpad control on the Jenn Air range. It made the job infinitely easier. Unfortunately I broke the narrow hard plastic bar with the 2 small prongs that overlays the touchpad ribbon; however, as you observed the slot where the ribbon is inserted holds it like a vice.
    I wanted to add 2 tips that I gleaned from a YouTube video. Apparently one reason the touchpad fails is excessive heat from the oven escapes the front door and eventually causes the layers of the touchpad to separate. The reasons for the heat escaping are a compressed oven door gasket and excessive hinge gap. With time the door gasket gets contaminated with various liquids, presumably from overflow from the burners, and with oven heat hardens and flattens the gasket. The door hinge gap gets increased by excessive weight on the door when open causing the inside metal door panel to bend slightly, i.e., tents vertically along the hinge arm. I had both issues present. The gasket replacement is a 5 minute job. For the door hinge fix I removed the door (pulls straight off hinges), placed it face down on a well padded surface, and, using a rubber mallet, tapped the inner metal door surface level. Replacing the door necessitated me blocking open the hinges with small wedges. Prior to doing this one hinge would invariably snap closed while I tried to aline the door to slide back on.

  6. #46
    I have a Jenn-Air JGS8750 ADS. It has been flashing the same error code F1-7 as well. I ordered a new control panel, but it is now showing F1-E after I put the new control panel in. Do I need a different part?
    Thank you,
    Jenny

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