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Thread: GE Profile Fridge - Water Under Deli Tray

  1. #1

    GE Profile Fridge - Water Under Deli Tray

    Model Number: pfsf6pkxdbb
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    Water under deli tray again. I replaced the temp sensor, the heater coil, the fan about 3 months ago because of a temperature problem and fan noise. This fridge is really a piece of crap. $1700 and it's 4 years old.

    Any other ideas? Should I just cut my losses and deep 6 this piece of crap? Or continue to fight it and have it nickel and dime me?

    Ge Profile Fridge

    pfsf6pkxdbb

  2. #2
    I'm having the exact same issue, but have yet to spend any $ in an attempt to fix it. My model is pfss6pkxdss.

    In addition, my ice maker works great, but over the past few months my water filter has slowed to a trickle. I've replaced the filter, tried just using the bypass plug, and checked and adjusted the water pressure from the wall. Still a trickle and unusable. Tempted to buy PD00008487 to try and fix, but they said the part wouldn't include installation instructions.

    Also wondering if these two issues are related.

    Good luck Kevin.

  3. #3
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Water under the deli tray is usually caused by water from the automatic defrost cycle not going down the drain to the bottom of the refrigerator. The most common thing that we see cause this is the refrigerator is not going through the automatic defrost cycle and the drain ices up. Once the drain is iced up, then the water doesn't have anywhere to go except down under the deli drawer. To fix this problem you will need to thaw the iced up drain and then find which defrost component is bad (defrost heater, defrost sensor, defrost thermostat, or main control board). To access the drain you will need to unplug the refrigerator, remove #97 in the attached diagram below, and then the drain is at the bottom of #90. Let us know what you find.

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    Ryan

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  4. #4

    Question

    I have a similar issue, in addition to having to replace an icemaker with broken drive gear teeth.

    My fridge is GE pfsf6pkwbww. There is a sheet of ice under the deli drawer, and water seeps out its left front corner and eventually appears under the left front foot on the floor. I can't see water on the back interior wall above the deli drawer anywhere, so I haven't figured out how it's getting under it. How would I get at the defrost drain and melt any ice blockage in it on my model. How would I determine which of the several possible devices might have failed, and where they're at?

    Also, I removed the icemaker entirely this morning, and yet sitting here tonight we were startled to hear the fridge making the popping noises we always thought were due to the icemaker drive. They were slightly different in nature and stopped after 30 seconds or so. What might they be caused by, a defrost cycle?
    Last edited by Hafcanadian; 05-27-2017 at 02:36 AM.

  5. #5
    Well, a further complication. (I may wish we just went fridge shopping after all this, but I've already ordered a new ice maker). We've discovered today a lot of frozen foods in the refrigerator, some of which were ruined, mostly salad veggies, but a container of salsa and a jar of sliced olives also, and I noticed icey milk in a carton last week. Most but not all were items stored along the back wall.

    We don't live in a hot and humid area, so I usually leave the "energy saver" on on the control panel. Thinking it might unplug a drain, I've had it off a few days so the heaters would work; maybe that was a mistake?
    Last edited by Hafcanadian; 05-29-2017 at 02:38 AM.

  6. #6
    So I took everything apart today, as per several videos from homeowners and pros. The drain rubber at the bottom was fine, but lots of ice clogging the basin under the evaporator. I used a blaster and hot water to clear the drain at the basin. I made a new aluminum heat sink as a copy of the one sold as an upgrade online and fastened it around the black heater line, with a tongue descending as far as possible into the hole. I discovered it isn't actually a hole... there's a concave obstruction so I can't get a tube down there, but hot water forced with the baster finally broke through the ice after a half hour or so.

    But though everything appears to be working now, the digital readout keeps flashing something akin to "88" on both freezer and fridge sides, and the screen won't respond to any input. Nothing in the manual describes this issue. I presumed it was because the unit was unplugged for 2-3 hours, and it needed resetting. But the panel won't respond, not even after the fridge inside temp is apparently back to normal.

  7. #7
    I'm in the same boat as you.... and I'm thinking the same ..... to get rid of this GE Profile fridge. I have contacted GE many times, and told them about this issue, and that there are probably thousands of others complaining about this. YET.... GE totally denies that this problem even exists. I will never by another GE Fridge again.

  8. #8
    I apparently neglected to return here and post after making my repair. I did significant research and by combining multiple sources, especially YouTube videos, I successfully got my fridge operating properly. Sorry if the following seems disjointed anywhere as this site keeps required me to log back in, given the length of my post, and the process managed to lose several sentences. The culprit was the evaporator drain behind the interior rear panel, and a poorly designed drain heating apparatus. The drain ices up and plugs allowing water to overflow to the fridge floor where it accumulates and freezes.

    The white panel is below or inclusive of the fan as I recall and needs to be pried away along its edges, preferably with a plastic spatula or other strong, thin pry device that won't scratch anything. This will expose the evaporator coil and drain. In the drain port is a T-shaped aluminum "thingy" that is meant to transfer heat down into the drain port's throat to keep it ice free. Not. Unwrap that device from what it hangs from and use it as a template to make your own replacement out of thin aluminum sheet you may get at a hardware or home center. Only make it with 1/2" longer wings so the 2 upper ones wrap more around the heat source, and the single lower wing extends further down the drain throat. This ensures much better heat permeation into the drain to help prevent it icing up and stopping water from draining out when the evaporator cycles. If it can't drain normally, then each time the evaporator cycles its condensate runs over the trough sides and guess where... down the inner sides down to settle and build up under the deli tray where, since the system is no longer operating as it should, it freezes causing the tray to seize to the fridge bottom floor.


    Of course, you may as well clean everything while you've got it apart. But before mounting your newly home-made heat transfer device, you need to clear the drain. A tube runs from the trough/port below the evaporator down to a tray under the fridge. Pull the fridge away from the wall so you can get at the tray and tube and control things if all breaks loose when the clog gives way. It is probably mostly ice in the upper tube, but dirt may also be involved. Keep towels at the ready there. Place towels around the evaporator trough/drain port throat because this can get messy. You need to put very hot water from the faucet or other heating source in like a two-cup pyrex or plastic measuring cup, so its pouring lip helps aim/control your slowly pouring hot water down the port. Pour a little and wait. Pour some more and wait. Be patient. Dump out cooled water from the measuring cup regularly and recharge with hot. The idea is simple... keep hot water going at that drain port. You may have to sop up cooled out of the port before adding new hot water. It took me a good half hour to an hour before the clog finally gave up and water ran down to the tray under the fridge. Seems like I may have also had a hair dryer pointed at the panel below the trough, but that would be tricky because one can deform the panel so things won't fit right afterward. Do so only while cognizant of the peril.


    Mount your newly made thermal transfer device with its extra wrap wings and deeper port access wing that helps ensure adequate heat gets down the drain neck. Now for the hard part. Getting the white back panel back on was a bear. YouTube videos as I recall warned about that. You have to get it started along one side and work at it until it seats entirely, and it ain't a piece of cake. Sorry, it's been nearly two years since I replaced the icemaker and fixed the drain issue. I suggest checking YouTube for videos that may help, and Samsung (the maker of this GE fridge) did sell that heating part as a replacement. Whether they'd ever redesigned it I dunno, but making my own wasn't difficult... it's a pretty simple device to copy and modify slightly.

    Disclaimer: This is a repair you need to understand is at your own risk, since you would be modifying a part. The part may now be available as a redesign from Samsung or other parts supplier. You should check into that. Also understand that it’s been nearly 2 years since I did my repair and I may have forgotten and therefore not included every detail. Therefore it is recommended that you research relevant videos and other resources before attempting this or a similar repair. I only relate what I remember that I did in my circumstance, and given that individual technical and mechanical capabilities vary, it is not intended for specific instruction. Proceeding is at your own risk and responsibility.

    Needless to say despite being a lifelong GE owner, this machine has put me off both GE and Samsung. From what I've seen and read our next unit will likely be an LG. But quality varies even within manufacturers, and owners have different experiences. I just think the LG icemaker design certainly looks a lot more amenable than the Samsung's. Hopefully less troublesome and quieter... anything has to be quieter than our Samsung icemaker. And the LG in-door one looks easier to access should it ever need repair. Plus you can see the ice tray. I'd expect it not to overfill like the Samsung, too. Ours gets so full that you have to almost reef on the box to get it out, and then cubes fly all over the floor. Then a useless big wad of ice gets wasted in the sink.
    Last edited by Hafcanadian; 02-06-2019 at 11:52 PM.

  9. #9
    Doc Ryan - I had this exact same problem on my GE Profile (Model-PFSS9PKYASS) that turned out to be the rubber drain tube that was stopped up with debris by the drain pan. Fixed that issue an put back together. All was fine until about 2 weeks later when my freezer quite cooling out of the blue. A few days later the frig quite cooling as well. Before I removed #90 to diagnose the water issue this appliance was operating perfectly. It has been unplugged now for a week so there is no frost build up anywhere, yet neither compartment is cooling. 60-62 degrees at best. If I power it up, the evaporator coil in the frig compartment will frost up only about the first 4 inches at the top of the coil and thats it. A repair man said that symptom was a sign of a Freon leak. I don't know if I'm confident in that diagnosis. Lastly, I never removed the back panel in the freezer compartment. Before I trash this appliance and spend another $3K, do you have any troubleshooting methods I can perform as a last effort?
    Last edited by Jthiem; 03-06-2019 at 08:53 AM.

  10. #10
    I have a similar problem with a GE Profile Refrigerator (Model # TFX27PRBABB). We get a spurt of water, maybe 3-4 ounces, that leaks out onto the floor, from under the fridge, near the freezer side. This happens maybe 2-3 times a week. Its not enough to call in the techs, but it is annoying. This unit is 20 yrs old. We get no leakage inside the fridge.

  11. #11
    I have GE model GFSS6KKYCSS. Same problem - ice under deli drawer. I take it apart, defrost drain line, a few months later the same thing. My solution - I cut a hole in the back of the fridge with a utility knife, centered, from 36 to 44 inches off the floor, about 6 inches wide. I dug out the insulation with a wood chisel, cut the drain line with garden shears, and put a piece of 5/8" ID tubing over the stub. The existing drain line is inside the insulation, next to the freezer, so it freezes! Now, the drain line is outside the fridge so it won't freeze. I just did this fix, it seems to be working well after a few days. I will transition the tube from 5/8" to maybe 1/4" and put it in the pan where the original tube drains to. I will also use expanding foam to fix the hole I made, but I'm sure having the drain line away from the freezer will fix it permanently. Disclaimer - don't blame me if you try this and it goes badly but it's worth a shot before you throw the expensive fridge away because it's designed so that it won't defrost itself!!!!

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