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Thread: [FIXED] Fridgidare oven not working

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Fridgidare oven not working

    Model Number: FEF326ASL
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: More than 10 years

    Hi - I just found this site. I think the problem may be the element but figured I may be able to confirm it here. I was heating pizzas and noticed they were not getting done. The oven was warm so it was heating. Finished them using the broiler so that worked. Turned it on today and there was normal clicking from around the clock area but the element did not get hot. Anything else it could be other than the element? Thanks!
    Doug

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I will need to get the model number from the tag on your stove/oven to look up more information for you. On most stoves the model number tag is located behind the bottom drawer on the oven frame. In ovens it can be a bad element, bad control board, or a burned/broken wire that will cause it not to heat.
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Thank you Ryan. The model number is FEF326ASL sn# VF53040236.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Thank you. First unplug the range, do a visual inspection of the bake element, and look for any breaks in the element. If that checks out, then next you will need to do a continuity test on the bake element to see if it is good or bad using a ohm meter or multi meter. If the element has continuity and none of the wiring is bad then replace the control board. Let us know what you find.

    These are the parts for your model range:

    Bake Element - Part # PD00000107 (mfg # 316075104)


    Oven Control Board - Part # PD00000245 (mfg # 316455400)


    The overlay may be reuseable from your old control board. If not you will need to order a new one.
    Touchpad Overlay (White) - Part # PD00000435 (mfg # 316220700)
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    Thanks yes I've put this off for some reason!! When I check the element should I have the range unplugged and what do I set my metor to? I don't do electrical to much but I have a cheap metor from HF. I may order a control board even if it is just the element because I have it rigged on as the plastic broke a while back where it screw to the frame.
    Thank you

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug01 View Post
    Thanks yes I've put this off for some reason!! When I check the element should I have the range unplugged and what do I set my metor to? I don't do electrical to much but I have a cheap metor from HF. I may order a control board even if it is just the element because I have it rigged on as the plastic broke a while back where it screw to the frame.
    Thank you
    Yes, make sure to unplug the range first as one side of the element is always connected to live power. To test the element you will need to disconnect the wires to the element and set your meter to the ohm (upside down horseshoe) setting. If the meter says 20, 20k, 200k, ect, then set it to the lowest setting (20). Touch one of each of the probes to each of the elements wire terminals, if the element is good it should have an ohm reading of around 5-20 ohms.
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    Ok I hate to be a bozo and appreciate the help. Do I need to remove the element to test? When I touch the probes to right behind the element the ohms drop to .7 when I touch the copper looking area where the screws are the numbers jump all around. Thanks and sorry for all the questions.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The element can be installed, but the two wires that connect to the element must be removed to get an accurate ohm reading.
    Ryan

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  9. #9
    Ordered on Wednesday got the element on Friday! Back in business, thank you!

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug01 View Post
    Ordered on Wednesday got the element on Friday! Back in business, thank you!
    Thanks for the update, I have updated the status of this thread to FIXED. I am glad it was the cheaper part that fixed your problem.
    Ryan

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