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Thread: Samsung Dryer Stumped

  1. #1

    Samsung Dryer Stumped

    Model Number: DV45H7000E
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: Less than 1 year

    My dryer is less than 6 months old. I've tried going through Samsung warranty repair and have decided it would probably be easier trying to fix this myself. My dryer wont heat. Airflow is good, no lint build up. Source Voltage is 240v. There is continuity through the heat element, high limit switch, and thermal cutoff. 2 wires going to heat element (Red & Blue), the Red has 120v but the blue is dead. Up top behind the controls is the power board. (?) There is 120v on the line side (Black). When the dryer is turned on i get 120v through the relay to the Blue wire. Also, i checked for continuity from the leads of the element to chassis ground, and there is none. (just to make sure the element wasn't broke and laying against the housing. So, i have 120V on the blue wire leaving the relay but not on the blue wire going to the heat element. Am i supposed to have 240V between both leads going to the heat element? Any help would GREATLY appreciated as the wife is all over my back

  2. #2
    Do a continuity test on the blue wire. If you have 120 V on the blue line on the control panel but not down by the heater that line has a breaking it . But just for reference I've been dealing with Sam song for the past month because my control board went out and mine but I'm two months out of warranty since you're still in it if you do it yourself a void your warranty so you want to double check that with them

  3. #3
    Just checked....i have continuity on the blue from top to bottom

  4. #4
    Ok Blue wire is good there's no breaks. Now you need to turn on the dryer put it on timer function and test the voltage want to the ground and one to the blue wire it should have 120 V when you touch the blue with the red you should get 240. If you don't have 120 check it out of the real way and test touching the blue Ryer coming out the relay and the other one touching the ground if you still don't have 120 check the black going into the relay it should have 120 when you touch the black and then touch your ground if it doesn't go to the back of your dryer there's a flat panel take it off and you should see where the three prongs from your power cord attach testy black hook up and the ground you should have 120 if you don't unplug the dryer and test the actual outlet the outlet should have 120 testing one hot side and the neutral then do the the other hot side and the neutral each one have 120 and testing the two hots should give you 240 this way you can make sure you're actually even have power to the dryer and you can tell where it's dropping out at if it drops out coming out of the relay or you have power on the black line going in but no power coming out of the blue then your relays bad or whatever controls the relay is bad which is normally the control board but that's the problem I'm having right now I ordered one control board had the same problem so I returned it and I'm ordering another one but make sure when you're testing the blue wire the dryer actually has to be running because the really has to be closed for it to transfer power

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    South Dakota
    The heating element should receive approx 240v when the element is supposed to be on. From what you have tested so far, it sounds like the main control board might be bad.
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  6. #6
    At the control board, (top of the machine) the black wire has 120V and the Blue has 0V with the dryer off. When i turn it on the blue wire then has 120V on it leaving the control board but has 0 volts on it at the heating element. The Red wire has 120V. With the blue plugged onto the heating element there is only 120V between the Red and Blue wires.

  7. #7
    You need to check the 240 voltage make sure your texting the two hot leads not a ground and a hot and You have tested that each line is put out 120 so now make sure when you test the black put your prong on the black line and then the other prong on your redline on the back of your dryer not the neutral when you get 240 you know you got the right voltage you can go on and turn the dryer on and test the blue line with the redline and you should get 240 again if you don't that relay is not closing

  8. #8
    I have 240V at the receptacle and the terminals where the cord terminators are, that was where is started. . 238 volts to be exact, 118v on each phase
    Last edited by Superbee862; 10-22-2015 at 05:56 PM.

  9. #9
    Do you have 240 V going into the relay and coming out of the relay remember test coming out of the relay with the dryer on

  10. #10
    Ok here's some randomness for you. My daughter put a load in the the dryer and put it on "time dry". The dryer worked. it got the clothes mostly dry. Now when she put it on time dry again to finish drying it did NOT get hot.

  11. #11
    This is the same problem I’m having and none of these threads show a Dow wtf

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