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Thread: thermal fuse keeps blowing

  1. #1

    thermal fuse keeps blowing

    Model Number: WFW9450WR00
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    I have replaced the thermal fuse about ten times now! I have replaced heat element, and all fuses! The drier ran for a year and no problems! I replace the thermal fuse and drier seems extreemly hot during the cycle! I replaced the vent and duct and blew all lint out of drier with air hose! The only thing i havent replaced is the control panel! Im at my wits end with this drier!!!!! HELP!!!!!
    Thank you for your time
    David Brown

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The model number that you provided is for a washer.
    Ryan

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  3. #3

    wed9450wr0

    Quote Originally Posted by david brown View Post
    model number: wfw9450wr00
    brand: whirlpool
    age: 1-5 years

    i have replaced the thermal fuse about ten times now! I have replaced heat element, and all fuses! The drier ran for a year and no problems! I replace the thermal fuse and drier seems extreemly hot during the cycle! I replaced the vent and duct and blew all lint out of drier with air hose! The only thing i havent replaced is the control panel! Im at my wits end with this drier!!!!! Help!!!!!
    Thank you for your time
    david brown
    wed9450wr0

  4. #4
    Wed9450wro

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Try running the dryer on an air dry only (no heat) cycle and check to see if the dryer still heats.
    Ryan

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  6. #6
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
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    Unplug the unit and both wires from the heating coil.
    Measure across the coil, should be in the 8 to 12 ohms range.
    Then measure from each side of the coil to it's case, both should be infinite ohms.
    if not the heating coil is grounded and should be replaced.
    A grounded coil can cause it to run unregulated blowing the thermal fuse.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

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