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Thread: Replaced every part on Dryer and it still does not heat

  1. #21
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    713
    Below is info on this unit
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...WZET29FMzFablE

    All I can suggest is that you start over diagnosing the problem.

    Start with the voltage to the unit, remember that it is the L1 to L2 (240 volts) that is important in a heater circuit.

    If OK move on to checking the heater circuits.
    I am using the wiring diagram in the Fast Track Troubleshooting sheet.
    It is marked as a Double Heater but is actually the single heater.

    Use your meter in resistance mode.
    Using it in continuity mode (where you get the beep) is useless in my opinion as you do not know whet the meter sees as continuity.

    Use the most sensitive meter scale.
    Also be sure to short the meter leads together before starting.
    This will show you if there is a zero offset in the meter.
    Be sure to unplug the unit.

    L1 at the terminal strip to the black wire (1) of 1P at the board should be 0 ohms.
    Measure at the wire with the 1P connector disconnected from the board,.
    If OK
    With the connector still disconnected, measure from blue wire (2) of 1P to the far side of the heater re: 32-2.
    This should be about 10 ohms.
    If OK
    Measure from the red (1) to L2 at the terminal strip.
    This should be 0 ohms.

    If all are OK then all that is left is the centrifugal switch on the motor and the control board.

    Plug the 1P connector back onto the control board.

    Remove the two red wires from the centrifugal switch and connect them together.
    Tape them so that they cannot short to anything and also not get caught in a moving part.
    Now plug the unit and give it a try.
    If you have heat then the centrifugal switch is bad or the motor's mechanism to activate it is not working.
    If there is no heat then all that is left is the control board.
    NOTE: only let the dryer run a short time for this test as the jiggery pokery short bypassing the centrifugal switch may get hot/overheat when full heater current passes through it.

    If still no heat
    Unplug the unit and check the resistance of both thermistors.
    Be sure to unplug them when measuring.
    This ensures that you do not measure an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    If all OK then odds are that the control board is bad.

    You can check if the heater relay on the board is closing but this is a live test with the unit running and therefore is dangerous.

  2. #22
    Thank you, denman, for all of this -- greatly appreciated! But, wanted to update you. So still unable to locate it, we brought in a professional. He likewise found all the parts to be fine. He checked the voltage from the outlet and to the terminal block -- all great. Then, he did this. He ran the voltage check on the terminal block while the unit was running (I only did it when it was plugged in but not running), and the 240 when not on (but plugged in) all of a sudden drops, then you can hear the relay switch clicking. For some reason, once it starts running, it's not getting the juice from the outlet anymore. He says not a problem with the dryer, but problem with the electrical -- need to call in an electrician. Either a problem with the outlet, the cable or the breaker. So, that's what we're doing now. Ugh.

  3. #23
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    713
    Thank you for getting back to us.
    Sounds like you have found the problem now all that is left is finding the bad part in the house wiring.
    I have seen this type of problem in the past but it is very very rare.

  4. #24
    Unfortunately, that is not the problem. Electrician came out and tested all of the wiring and the wiring is fine. So it must be the dryer (though we won't really know unless the dryer gets fixed and/or we buy another one and it works). We're having another technician from another place come out and look at it and see if he can find the problem. So far, we just don't understand what is happening (or what needs to be fixed as almost everything has been replaced at this point -- everything except the wire harnesses).

    When the dryer is plugged in, the voltage to the terminal block looks good. 120 on both sides (to ground) and 240 across them. But, when you turn it on, it holds for about 5-10 seconds, and then you hear what we think is the relay clicking over and then then 240 drops to almost nothing (though each side still shows 120 to ground). We figure it's got to be a short somewhere, but have no idea where/what it is. All the components are testing with the proper continuity or resistance -- heating element, thermal fuse, thermostat, thermistor, thermal fuse on blower housing, and motor. You'd think it was the control board, but we've replaced that once already too so it seems highly unlikely that the replacement control board has same issue as the original control board.

    I called the samsung support line hoping that this was a problem they've seen before, and they suggested flipping the cord on the terminal block. They admitted that it shouldn't make a difference, but to try it. We did and we did get a different result -- the machine wouldn't turn on at all. And the measurements across the wires were different. One showed 120 to ground, the other showed 0 to ground and then 120 across the two. Machine wouldn't run. So it was interesting that something different happen when it shouldn't have mattered, but it didn't fix it either.

    With this second technician's visit, we'll be $500 in the hole on trying to fix this ($250 for parts, $65 for first technician, $100 for electrician and $99 for second technician). Had I known this is where we would have ended up, I would have used the $500 towards a new dryer (the original dryer was $800 and only lasted 18 months). I will certainly never buy another Samsung dryer.


    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    Thank you for getting back to us.
    Sounds like you have found the problem now all that is left is finding the bad part in the house wiring.
    I have seen this type of problem in the past but it is very very rare.

  5. #25
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    713
    It still sounds like a house wiring problem to me.

    For a couple reasons.

    1. Since one side of the line drops to zero when the unit is turned on, the only way this can happen is if there is a very very large current draw.
    In which case the breaker should have tripped.

    2.Your symptoms changed when all you did was swap L1 and L2.
    L1 is used to run the timer, motor etc.
    L2 is only used to power the heater.
    So when you made L1 into L2 with the swap there was no power to the timer and it would not power up.
    Therefore I think there is a problem with the L2 side of the line.

    Here is an explanation of what I think is happening.
    There is a high resistance in the L2 side of the line.
    Now how this works.
    Lets say there is a 10,000 ohm resistance in the line.
    With no current flowing (circuit open) you will see 120 volts on both sides of the resistance re: the dryer turned off. The voltage with no current flowing will be the same on both sides of the resistance just like it is a solid wire.
    But now we put a 10 ohm resistance (the heating coil) in series with this 10,0000 ohms. Now when we close the circuit (dryer calls for heat) current flows but all the voltage is dropped across the 10,000 ohm resistance and you see 0 volts on one side of it (at the dryer).
    Now for some math.
    at 120 volts current through a 10,000 resistor is 0.012 amps
    at 120 volts current through a 10,000 ohm resistor and an in series 10 ohm resistor is 0.011988 or basically the same.
    So when you close the circuit you get 119.88 volts across the 10,000 ohm resistor and 0.12 volts across the 10 ohm resistor (basically nothing)
    I hope I have not confused you.

    I wish I knew your electrical skills.
    There is a way to check the lines.
    Take a lamp etc. and attach two wires to the plug (2 wire).
    It should be an incandescent lamp a 60 watt should do it or anything else that draws a few amps of power (hair dryer etc).
    LEDS may not indicate a problem.
    Make sure that they cannot come loose or short to each other (tape them with electrical tape)
    Make sure the lamp or whatever you are using is on.
    Now with the dryer plugged in touch one wire to Neutral (center connection)at the units terminal strip and the other to L1. The light should come on.
    Then check from Neutral to L2 if the light does not come on then L2 is the problem.
    Then you could also do this at the plug with the dryer unplugged to confirm that the dryer is not the culprit.

    Another option is to hump the unit over to a neighbors and try it.
    Or if the plus are compatible hump it into your kitchen and use the stove plug.

    Just be sure to NOT touch the wires from L1 to L2 as this will blow your lamp.

  6. #26
    Thank you so much for the help, denman. My husband read this and thought it made total sense, but we weren't able to carry out the test quite yet -- he said he didn't have the right stuff to do it. So, before he headed of to get something from work or the hardware store to carry out the test, her rechecked the breaker and the outlet. He said one side of the outlet is now showing 107 rather than 120, which both lines out of the breaker show 120. So, he surmised that it's definitely got to the electrical because there is no way we should be losing 10% when there is no load.

    Next, he climbed up into the attic to see if he could trace the wires and he found what he thinks is the culprit. Here's a picture of the junction box, which appears to be burned/melted/damaged. So, we think is the source of all the problems.

    Thank you again for all of your help!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails junction box.jpg  

  7. #27

    Samsun Dryer heating issues

    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    Since you do not have it try the following.
    The pdf is too big to attach directly on this site so I have had to use a third party site.
    Hopefully it will work for you.

    https://www.datafilehost.com/d/5af871a0

    Uncheck "Download with Secured Download manager"
    Then use the light grey Download button.
    This should ensure that you do not download any software that you do not want on your computer
    hi i just found this thread trying to figure out why my Samsung Dryer wont work after replacing the heating element, thermostate and thermal fuse that was needed for my model. i tried to click on your attachment but it didnt work. can you repost it for me?

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by itskrb View Post
    hi i just found this thread trying to figure out why my Samsung Dryer wont work after replacing the heating element, thermostate and thermal fuse that was needed for my model. i tried to click on your attachment but it didnt work. can you repost it for me?
    Problem: Replacement thermal cut-off part# DC47-00016A keeps blowing off.

    Solution:

    The replacement DC47-00016A is actually a PC-17/PC-17S B-2 K85 thermal cut-off, which is spec'd to cut off at 85*F.

    The original part I removed was a CS-7 B-2 K160 thermal cut off, which is spec'd to cut off at 160*F.

    Use the part Dryer Thermal Fuse DC47-00015A instead of DC47-00016A. Also it is recommended to replace thermistor part #DC32-00007A. This should solve it.

    I have changed almost every part. I am going to replace DC47-00016A with DC47-00015A and replace thermistor part #DC32-00007A on Feb 21st. I will keep you posted with the results.

  9. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by bhumitmpatel View Post
    Problem: Replacement thermal cut-off part# DC47-00016A keeps blowing off.

    Solution:

    The replacement DC47-00016A is actually a PC-17/PC-17S B-2 K85 thermal cut-off, which is spec'd to cut off at 85*F.

    The original part I removed was a CS-7 B-2 K160 thermal cut off, which is spec'd to cut off at 160*F.

    Use the part Dryer Thermal Fuse DC47-00015A instead of DC47-00016A. Also it is recommended to replace thermistor part #DC32-00007A. This should solve it.

    I have changed almost every part. I am going to replace DC47-00016A with DC47-00015A and replace thermistor part #DC32-00007A on Feb 21st. I will keep you posted with the results.
    Success! Make sure the thermal cut-off has cut off at 160*F and not 85*F, sold by most seller.

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