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Thread: [FIXED] DUET DRYER won't run after replacing heating element, fuses, thermistor.

  1. #1

    Question [FIXED] DUET DRYER won't run after replacing heating element, fuses, thermistor.

    Model Number: WED8300SW2
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 6-10 years

    Dryer became very hot, then shut off. Since I was taking it apart, and given low cost for these parts (I ordered from PartsDr, which had lowest price, OEM parts, and quick delivery - parts even showed up a day early), I replaced heating element, fuses, thermostat and thermistor. Vent is clean, and door switch is working. Dryer ran fine for a day after the repair. Now, the power comes on, and it lights the sensing LED, but dryer won't run. How can I check to see if the board is bad? I found a diagnostic sequence in the FSM, and will try that before ordering the board. Any tips, or should I just cough up the big bucks for the control board?

    Parts replaced (I changed all of these out through the front kick panel, after watching a youtube repair, so did not have to unstack, and take top off and drum out). Very easy repair.

    PD00002311 - In line Thermal Fuse
    PD00002365 - Heating Element
    PD00002401 - Thermistor
    PD00002626 - Thermal Fuse and Thermostat
    Last edited by skg0724; 07-14-2016 at 11:59 AM.

  2. #2
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    In case you do not have it see the attached tech sheet.

    First check the power to the unit to be sure you have 120volts from L1 and L2 to Neutral and 240 from L1 to L2.

    If OK unplug the unit and check the thermal fuse, should be 0 ohms.

    If blown and the thermistor measures OK then odds are that it is a board problem.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

    There is a good STICKY at the start of this forum about it's use.

  3. #3
    Many thanks denman. I do have a multimeter, but was not at home, and tried to order parts I thought likely for an overheat in order to repair the machine as soon as possible when i got home. The primary user of it was becoming anxious, and having me take a couple of days, then disassemble, and then order parts wasn't going to work for her.
    Last edited by skg0724; 07-15-2016 at 11:31 AM.

  4. #4
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    You are welcome

    I am assuming that you have already checked the complete vent system as this is the most common cause of the fuse blowing.

  5. #5
    Yes. Vent line is clean, and has a very short run to outside. flap is operational. Ran the diagnostic using the panel. All tests were ok, except that motor would not start, so tech sheet says "If the motor does not turn on, go to
    TEST #2" of the motor circuit. The first test is of the control board.

  6. #6
    Tested power at supply connector for kicks. All good. Tested the control board per tech sheet, test #2. 1 ohm between P8-4 and P9-1, so replaced board. Checked in-line fuse. It was bad, so must be a single use fuse. Everything is now working well, thanks to this forum and videos on youTube! Also, I tested the old parts that I replaced initially. Both the high limit and in-line fuses were bad, so I didn't need the thermistor or heating element that I installed. Small price to pay, and with the new parts, maybe I will be good for a few more years! The box that the board came in had information on returning it for a core credit. Contacting PartsDr to see how I can send that back in. Thanks again denman.
    Last edited by skg0724; 07-18-2016 at 12:27 PM.

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    South Dakota
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    4,230
    Thanks for the update! I have updated the status of this thread to FIXED. One easy test I have found is to run the dryer on an air dry (no heat) cycle and see if it still heats. If it does then the main control board is usually the culprit or sometimes a shorted heating element.
    Ryan

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