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Thread: Whirlpool Estate (electric) - will not heat - replaced many parts, checked power

  1. #1

    Whirlpool Estate (electric) - will not heat - replaced many parts, checked power

    Model Number: Estate
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 6-10 years

    Our dryer recently stopped heating. It turns on, drum turns over and the blower is working. I made sure that it was venting well / not obstructed... and not doubting the electrical, I went ahead and ordered a replacement element. For reference, I have never repaired an appliance.

    I installed the new element ok - and the old one looked pretty rough, making me feel good about replacing the part - but after reconnecting everything and turning dryer on, still did not get any heat. So I ordered new t-stats (operating and cycling) and thermal fuse.

    Installed t-stats and fuse ok, but sadly still didn't get heat. So I started doubting the electrical! I've toggled the breaker a number of times.

    A friend from out state suggested I reverse the red and black wires on the terminal block to see if it still runs (him thinking this could help me diagnose whether we'd lost a leg of power). After doing this, the dryer still runs. Regret I do not have a volt meter.

    Any ideas? Time to buy a new dryer? Thanks in advance!
    Last edited by MisterT; 07-25-2016 at 02:38 PM.

  2. #2
    Need a model number!!!
    With a little luck someone will find the wiring diagram and can guide you through checking the heat circuit.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

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