[FIXED] Electric Frigidaire range burners not turning on, oven won't heat up

[mchakon]

Model Number: FGES3065KFA
Brand: Frigidaire
Age: 6-10 years

Hi, on day 1 I baked a pizza in the oven and after it was done it seemed like the oven stayed on for some time after I pressed 'cancel'.
On day two I cooked breakfast on the range and it worked just fine. I noticed the oven needed cleaning so I started the self-cleaning cycle. After about an hour I heard loud beeps and saw what I thought was an error F40. I canceled the self clean cycle and started to let it cool down. After about another hour the beeps started again, this time with an error F90. It would not turn off so I unplugged the oven and let it cool off. After it cooled I plugged it back in and now the range coils will not turn on. Rotating any of the four range dials does nothing, no lights or sounds. All the oven controls appear to work except that the heating elements do not get hot, only a little warm.
I have opened up the assembly and verified that all the cables are seated properly and there is no electrical charring anywhere.
What part should I be replacing for this? How do I test? Thanks in advance for the help.

[Doc Ryan]

Currently does anything on the stove light up or show any sign of life?

[mchakon]

Currently does anything on the stove light up or show any sign of life?

No sir, only the oven controls show some response, the range coils and digits have no response.

[Doc Ryan]

Have you checked the circuit breakers and fuses in the house and tested the power supply to the stove yet?

[mchakon]

Have you checked the circuit breakers and fuses in the house and tested the power supply to the stove yet?

I did check and the power is good. The controls for the oven still light up and I can turn the light on, timer, convection fan, etc. although the oven will not get hot. All four range coils and their digital displays are completely dead.

[denman]

Your symptoms point to a problem with L2.
Did you use a meter to check the power at the terminal strip in the unit?

Also note that just checking Neutral to L1 and Neutral to L2 is not good enough because L1 voltage may be feeding through a part and showing up on the L2 side.
You must check for 240 volts from L1 to L2.

[Doc Ryan]

I was thinking the same thing as denman

[mchakon]

I was thinking the same thing as denman

I finally got my hand on a multimeter and tested all the lines. Voltage and Ohms were good on everything so I was perplexed. I ordered a new control board but that did not solve it. Finally I saw online that this model has a thermal circuit breaker, actually it has two, one for the oven and one for the cooktop. The high heat of the self clean cycle tripped them both and I just had to reset those switches. Thanks for the troubleshooting help!

[Doc Ryan]

I finally got my hand on a multimeter and tested all the lines. Voltage and Ohms were good on everything so I was perplexed. I ordered a new control board but that did not solve it. Finally I saw online that this model has a thermal circuit breaker, actually it has two, one for the oven and one for the cooktop. The high heat of the self clean cycle tripped them both and I just had to reset those switches. Thanks for the troubleshooting help!

Thank you for letting us know. I have updated the status of this thread to FIXED.