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Thread: Frigidaire Oven not working

  1. #1

    Frigidaire Oven not working

    Model Number: CFEF357EC2
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: More than 10 years

    The oven is not heating.

    When you turn the oven on and set temperature for bake the element does not heat up but the control says preheat is on.

    Also tried the broil setting and it will not heat either.

    There are no signs of blistering to either the bake or broil elements, they look normal.

    Also cycled power off to stove and set clock again, still no heating in oven.

    The stove top elements are working fine.

    Should I also check the fuse and temperature sensor? (Not sure where they are located)

    Do you know what the most likely problems are and if this stove is worth fixing or better to replace appliance?

  2. #2
    service person came today. took several measurements with multimeter, at power connection, and at bake and broil elements. Said that both elements needed replacing. Did not seem very experienced, had to call his office and talk to them about what he was doing and they had him take further meaurements. He then quoted parts prices that were much much higher than I see on internet with total estimate over 600$ parts and labor. Not very confident in either his diagnosis or his quote. Looked at a repair video and replacement of both elements looks like an easy one hour job and parts under 100 for both.

    Is it usual for both elements to go at same time? Should i get a multimeter and test myself?

    note also that there are no error messages on the display panel

  3. #3
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    It is very uncommon for both elements to go at the same time so I would get a meter and test it yourself.

    I doubt that the oven sensor is the cause because the unit stays in preheat so it knows that it needs more heat.
    It would not hurt to check the sensor, should be about 1100 ohms at room temperature.

    The elements should be in the 20 to 40 ohm range.

    See the attachment for the wiring diagram.
    The most likely cause is a bad control board.
    May also be a bad wire re: the one that s common to both elements.

    Below is my standard blurb on using a meter.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

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