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Thread: Samsung Heating Element Fails to Chooch, but non of the usual suspects

  1. #1

    Question Samsung Heating Element Fails to Chooch, but non of the usual suspects

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Model Number: DV350AEW/xaa
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    VERIFIED main issue is a voltage to ground/frame issue.

    But to show I did my homework.
    All thermal fuses/thermostats checked good
    Thermistor checked good
    Heating Element checked good (NOTE: There is NO CONTINUITY between the element and the frame; initially my results made me think this was happening)


    Relay for the element (black and blue) wires contacts and voltage is confirmed on both wires.
    The contact of the relay seems to be resulting in voltage going to ground instead of through the heating element.
    So suspects in my mind: Short to ground by wire or short to ground by board
    With the concern of short by wire, I started checking high voltage wires for continuity. I do find continuity on the 2 brown wires found on the other relay and on the brown wire going into the board (can provide photos if necessary).
    SO, first question is, should I see continuity from my brown wire to ground?
    If, YES, should I check anything else before sticking a new board in?

    If not, new board here we come.

    Thanks for your time and help

  2. #2
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    What does "Element Fails to Chooch" mean?

    What is the problem?
    What are the symptoms?

    If there is a short of voltage to ground then your panel circuit breaker will trip.
    I do not have a wiring diagram but using one from another Samsung unit I do not understand why you are concerned about voltage on the brown wire.
    This is usually a motor wire not a heater wire.

    Also you say there is voltage on both black and blue wires was the unit running when you did this test?

    The wiring diagram I have shows L1 (black) to one contact of the relay on the board. Then the other relay contact comes out on the blue wire then through the thermal cut-off and the high limit thermostats and then the heater. Then out of the red wire on the heater to the centrifugal switch on the motor. And the other side of the centrifugal switch goes to L2 (red) completing the circuit.

  3. #3
    What does "Element Fails to Chooch" mean? = does not do its intended function, which is to make heat

    Symptom: everything works on dryer but heating element.

    If there is a short of voltage to ground then your panel circuit breaker will trip. - that's what i thought too! but im no sparky.

    This is usually a motor wire not a heater wire It is the motor wire I believe...but I should not have continuity from it to ground should I (I do)? What I see makes no since to me so I was checking all things I do not think should have continuity to ground for that

    Also you say there is voltage on both black and blue wires was the unit running when you did this test? Yes. Unit plugged in but off, voltage on black (as expected). Unit on, voltage on black and blue (as expected).

    EDIT: I think we are on to something with the centrifugal switch, any recommended checks on this component? I had neglected it because I dont understand quite what it is doing as far as the heating element is concerned...
    EDIT2: Got it; Centrifugal switch prevents my dryer from burning itself to smoke in a motor stall/no airflow situation. My switch did seem to be contacting intermittently so cleaned the contact and played with the spring. Will update after what we are dubbing 'trial test run 32'.

    Thanks for your help.
    Last edited by cshoemaker3; 02-23-2017 at 12:31 PM.

  4. #4
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    The centrifugal switch is actually two switches.

    They activate when the motor gets close to operating speed.

    One of them disconnects the motors start winding as the motor would overheat if it was left on. It also provides an alternate circuit path around the start switch so you can release the start and the unit keeps running.

    The other one is for the heater. It closes this ensures that thereis not heat before there is air flow.

    You could unplug the unit and the two red (heavier) wires from the centrifugal switch then short/jumper them together. Tape them etc. to make sure they cannot short to anything else or get caught in a moving part.

    Then plug the unit in and give it a try.
    If you have heat then the switch is the problem.

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