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Thread: No heat from broiler or bake, elements work

  1. #1

    No heat from broiler or bake, elements work

    Model Number: CGEF3034MFD
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hello! I know this is a common problem, but I'm hoping I can figure it out before I spend more money on a repair tech.

    Here we go. The broiler and bake elements are not getting hot. Eventually the oven warms a tiny tiny bit, but that's it.

    -1- on the back of the controller, there were two connections.. L2 IN and L2 OUT. They are both scorched.
    -2- I have checked continuity on both elements and they are intact.
    -3- I ordered a replacement controller for $200 and installed, and there was no change
    -4- the voltage is coming in on both lines


    I have not checked continuity or resistance on the temp. probe, but I figure that would present itself in a different way. When I use broil, as I've said, the upper element doesn't heat at all, despite the controller functioning properly.

    I've read about a thermal breaker, but I can't find it on my particular oven. I figured it would be on the back by the rest of the wires. I've noticed inside the oven on the top, near the probe there is a small circular shape. Could there be a thermal breaker underneath the stovetop?


    ***
    Upon looking further it would seem that the small circle could be the smoke/steam vent perhaps.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by patri0t82; 03-10-2017 at 09:31 PM.

  2. #2
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    I am assuming that the stove top elements work correctly.

    See the attachment for the wiring diagram.

    This unit does not have a thermal cut-off/breaker.

    Check the oven sensor, it should be about 1,Attachment 542100 ohms at room temperature.

  3. #3
    Hi, thanks for your help. I just ran a meter and it came back at 1.07 - I think that's about where it should be isn't it?

    And yes, sorry the elements are working fine.

  4. #4
    Hi again, so I believe it was the controller after all.

    When I installed the new controller yesterday, I only checked the broiler and it didn't work. I figured the rest wouldn't either.
    This morning when I went to test the temp probe, I bumped the wire connecting to the broiler and it fell right off. Bad connection. I retested the oven and it appears to be working properly with the new controller.

    Thank you again.

  5. #5
    I guess I have one more question, if you don't mind.

    I'm really concerned that this will happen again. Now that I've replaced the controller, is it possible I didn't actually 'fix the problem'? Maybe something else caused the board to burn out? All the elements appear to be fine, and I know an oven can only be 'so complicated'.

    When I ordered the new controller it came with some filters to bridge across my input voltage lines - maybe they realized it needed cleaner power?

    Any thoughts?

  6. #6
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    I agree with you that they probably have had problems with voltage spikes blowing the boards.

  7. #7
    Bad soldering on MB.
    Checking

    '60's, '70's, '80's, '84's are the most heavy duty residential appliances in my experience. Stick with mechanical controls.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by nwhvacdr View Post
    Bad soldering on MB.
    Todays have RHOS or lead free soldering, those are low temperature solder and melts during high current and blows out of trace and pin on MB or MCB. This applies to all other brands under MB or MCB. Shame on them for using low temperature solder.
    Checking

    '60's, '70's, '80's, '84's are the most heavy duty residential appliances in my experience. Stick with mechanical controls.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by patri0t82 View Post
    Model Number: CGEF3034MFD
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hello! I know this is a common problem, but I'm hoping I can figure it out before I spend more money on a repair tech.

    Here we go. The broiler and bake elements are not getting hot. Eventually the oven warms a tiny tiny bit, but that's it.

    -1- on the back of the controller, there were two connections.. L2 IN and L2 OUT. They are both scorched.
    -2- I have checked continuity on both elements and they are intact.
    -3- I ordered a replacement controller for $200 and installed, and there was no change
    -4- the voltage is coming in on both lines


    I have not checked continuity or resistance on the temp. probe, but I figure that would present itself in a different way. When I use broil, as I've said, the upper element doesn't heat at all, despite the controller functioning properly.

    I've read about a thermal breaker, but I can't find it on my particular oven. I figured it would be on the back by the rest of the wires. I've noticed inside the oven on the top, near the probe there is a small circular shape. Could there be a thermal breaker underneath the stovetop?


    ***
    Upon looking further it would seem that the small circle could be the smoke/steam vent perhaps.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	controller.jpg 
Views:	4 
Size:	146.9 KB 
ID:	541



    Those are the same controller.... lead free solder are to blame and melts during high current therefore opens the circuit to the element. I replaced one on my client and works fine. Engineers fault!
    Checking

    '60's, '70's, '80's, '84's are the most heavy duty residential appliances in my experience. Stick with mechanical controls.

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