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Thread: Kitchenaid -- too much water causes leak

  1. #1

    Kitchenaid -- too much water causes leak

    Model Number: KUDS30IXBL1
    Brand: KitchenAid
    Age: 6-10 years

    I think my dishwasher controller is causing too much water fill and subsequent leaks. The pictures show the water level immediately after the initial fill, and then less than a minute after the wash cycle starts.
    During initial fill, the overfill float works correctly to stop fill -tested manually.
    When the washing starts, the overfill float no longer works. It actives the switch, but that does not stop water fill. In the 2nd picture,the float is almost as high as it can go, and activated the switch much earlier. (btw, I replaces the float and switch anyway -- no change)
    I unplugged the water fill valve manually immediately after initial fill, and then no more water when in -- so the problem is not the fill valve continuing to let in water.
    When I unplugged the valve, there is still voltage across the plug -- seems to me that this means the main controller is still trying to add water - which it should not be doing.

    Can someone please confirm that the 2nd picture shows way too much water, and if you think my valve test is conclusive.
    Thanks.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails initial fill.jpg   start washing.jpg  

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    It can be hard to tell from pictures, but that does look like too much water from your 2nd picture. It almost looks like the spray arm is starting to submerge in water which isn't normal. According to the tech sheet for this model dishwasher the dishwasher should fill for 2 minutes and 25 seconds when you start the dishwasher on the Normal cycle. If the dishwasher is still sending power to the water valve after the fill sequence then it is most likely a bad main control board as that is the only part that controls the power being sent to the water inlet valve on this dishwasher. Let us know what you find.

    This is the main control board for your model dishwasher:

    Main Control Board - Part # PD00002651 (mfg # WPW10380685)
    Ryan
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  3. #3
    Thank you very much for the reply. And the tech sheet, which I will study carefully.
    It does look like the spray arms are almost submerged, but they are really 1/4-3/8" above the water.
    In normal cycle, this dishwasher fills for 53 seconds (picture 1). It then starts washing. At this point, there is still power to the valve, and the float/switch stops having any effect. After another 30+- seconds, level is at picture 2 (too high). Don't know when power is removed (don't know how I could easily tell that), but no power after 2:25.
    If it's suppose to fill for 2:25, how can it stop using the overfill switch?? Seems to me that I'm just lucky that it isn't pouring water on the floor.

  4. #4
    FYI The float switch is just a safety device to prevent over filling if the control board fails and powers the valve for too long.

    It should only be activated if there is a problem.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    FYI The float switch is just a safety device to prevent over filling if the control board fails and powers the valve for too long.

    It should only be activated if there is a problem.
    I understand that -- and it works that way for the first 53 seconds. Then the 'safety device' has no effect while the dishwasher continues to (over)fill with water.

  6. #6
    If water is still entering the unit with the float switch activated (open) then odds are that it is a fill valve problem.

    You can check this by measuring the voltage across the fill valve.

    If it is 0 volts AC and water is still entering the unit then the valve is bad.

  7. #7
    As mentioned in first post
    I unplugged the water fill valve manually immediately after initial fill (so 0 voltage across valve), and then no more water when in -- so the problem is not the fill valve continuing to let in water.
    When I unplugged the valve, there is still voltage across the plug -- seems to me that this means the main controller is still trying to add water - which it should not be doing.
    Isn't this testing the valve as you suggest? And also verified that the controller is still trying to add water even after the float switch opens.

    Thanks for thinking about this

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Where is the water leaking out of the dishwasher?
    Ryan
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  9. #9
    Along the front lip. You can tell from picture 2 that the DW is level. Yes, I have replaced the seal around the door, and the 'seal' along the bottom of the door.
    Do you still agree there is too much water in the pan?

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    If the dishwasher filling up with too much water during the 2:25 fill cycle then the water inlet valve may be bad or the water supply line to the dishwasher may have to much pressure and not be within the manufacture specifications. The float switch is just there as a safety, it should not be relying on that to stop the dishwasher from filling with water every time the dishwasher runs.
    Ryan
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  11. #11
    OP, did you ever figure out what the issue is? I am facing the exact same thing on a slightly different model. Mine is model number KUDS25SHBL1

    The overflow float moves freely, the overflow switch works correctly (cuts off the water when pressed), the controller shuts off the water after ~2 minutes, voltage shuts off when the controller tells it, the washer isn't filling up with too much water (when I pull the float the water isn't even 1/2 way up the overflow tube, I've checked that the overflow grommet is fine (I've even taken it apart and added a little silicone on both sides) and the tube isn't cracked. I've even verified to see if the washer wasn basically level and blumb........BUT

    I'm getting water dripping out the overflow tube, quite a bit actually.

    The only thing i can think of is that the water is sloshing around and coming up over the tube. Why would this happen and what can be done about it? Judging by the subfloor condition I think this may have been happening for a while, I just didn't know it.

    Thanks

  12. #12
    Yes -- I figured out that the main controller board was shot, as explained in the first post. Must be - the MCB was still supplying voltage to the inlet valve (thus putting in more water) when it should not be doing so.
    The cost of the MCB is absurd -- not much more to buy a new machine, So I did.

  13. #13
    Thanks for the follow up. My MCB seems to be working properly. I'll start my own post to see if anyone has any ideas. Thanks

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