Model Number: DV42h000/a3
Brand: Samsung
Age: 1-5 years
hello,
I recently found that my dryer was not heating. I replaced the thermostat, as i found it to have no continuity, I ran the machine and felt the heat figured i had fixed the problem. but alas the same part went bad within minutes. My question to all is; are these control boards really going bad in less than 3 years AND is that the culprit? is there and easy procedure to check the board? any help would be greatly appreciated.
g_man3645
I cannot find any info on the given model number.
Please check it.
Also which thermostat did you replace?
Was it a hi-limit or was it a thermal cut-off (fuse)?
Where was it located? If on the blower then it was probably a thermal fuse as this series of dryers use a thermistor for temperature control (I think).
The most common cause of thermal fuses blowing is a dirty vent system.
Below is info on a DV42H5000 unit perhaps yours is similar to this one.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...0pXTTlDcGlXUWs
no heat
thanks denman,
yes i left off the 5. DV42H5000EW/A3. I had replaced the pts17s, what the diagram calls thermostat 3. It ran for few mins then checked it again and it was bad. Heating element good there is no blockage at all. im checking all other thermistor and thermostats all seem to be good. I have a cheap Radio shack multimeter. Not happy about the absoluteness they build in these machines as i see the same thing happening to many consumers.
I am assuming this is mounted on the heater.
Have you checked that the heating element is no grounded.
This can cause the element to run unregulated or have a hot spot.
The way it is supposed to work is that if for some reason there heater is on all the time the hi-limit thermostat starts opening and closing to keep the temperatures at a reasonable level.
Unfortunately the contacts in the hi-limits are not great so eventually they fail (usually weld together) Then the thermal cutoff (fuse) blows preventing a fire.
Well not sure about the hi limit it shows 10.26k ohms so I think thats good. Went back and found error code saved and it says AE. so from reading on here when that gets replaced you still have no heat because the central switch somehow goes bad. I dont feel like throwing parts at this two year old machine.
The hi-limit should be 0 ohms.
A 10.26 Kohm resistance would limit the current to the heating element to 0.023 amps which is basically nothing when it comes to heating up a coil.
Current = voltage divided by resistance.
Sounds like a grounded element.
Unplug the unit and both wires from the heating element.
Measure across the element. They are usually in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
Then measure from each side of the element to ground (the case or frame). Both should be infinite ohms. If not then the element is grounded and should be replaced.
Sorry I misspoke. the thermistor was 10.26 and the hi limit was o.oo. but as i stated i found the problem.
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