Results 1 to 4 of 4

Thread: Samsung Dryer Mystery

  1. #1

    Samsung Dryer Mystery

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Model Number: DV330AEW/XAA
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    This is a bit of a mystery that I am hoping someone has seen and resolved in the past. My Samsung electric dryer runs with no error codes but does not produce any heat. Checked heating element (12 Ohms) and the two sensors (4 Ohms and 3 Ohms) attached to the heater element shield. The element is not shorted out when checked against the heat shield and there is great airflow. I checked the relay and am getting 122 volts on the black wire and 0 on the blue with the unit plugged in but not running. I am getting 122V on the black and 124V on the blue with the unit running (drum turning). I checked the ohms on the blue wire vs red wire on the thermister and got the proper reading for my room temperature. Is there anything else I can check or is it time to buy another dryer?

  2. #2
    Using Neutral ground when checking a heater problem can be confusing because Neutral is not part of the heater circuit.
    It is difficult to tell if you are measuring L1 or L2 voltage.
    Your readings look OK.
    By the sensors I am assuming you mean the thermal cutoff and the hi-limit thermostat. A couple ohms here is probably just due to the meter. They both should be 0 ohms.

    I am assuming that you have the wiring diagram.

    Could be a power problem as the heater requires the full 240 volts.

    Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    Check the voltage at the wall receptacle
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Do this with the heater off and on.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply Denman. I read the voltage at the wall outlet from L1 at 125 and from L2 at 125 then followed your advice and turned the gang breaker on and off a couple of times. Got the same readings after. The plug and all wiring visible looks burnt or smoked wires at all. You are correct, I was referring to the thermal cutoff and hi-limit thermostat. I also checked the terminal block to ensure the relay was sending 120 out both side when the drum was turning. I am at a loss what else to check. Nothing looks or smells burnt. I cannot even begin to imagine what else it might be. I am not getting any error codes. I ran it in many different modes and found none of them resulted in producing any heat. The only new thing I was able to find was when I just let it run in normal mode it powered itself down after about 5 minutes (out of the 44 minute cycle) and said end. When I powered it back up it told me to check the filter (which was clean). I pulled it and reinserted it and the filter check light went back out. I repeated this and, still on normal mode, it ran for about 5 minutes again then said END and powered down. I am doing another run check now on timed dry mode to see what happens. Any ideas?

  4. #4
    In order to properly check that the heater relay is closing you have to disconnect the blue wire at the RY 6 connector. Then measure to each connection (Blue and Black) using Neutral as the reference.
    Black has 120 all the time as it is hard wired to L1
    Blue only has 120 on it when the relay is closed (unit running in a heat mode)
    This ensures that you are not reading the L2 side of the line through the centrifugal switch , heater, thermal cutoff and hi-limit thermostat.

    If this is OK then a likely culprit would be the centrifugal switch on the motor.
    It activates when the motor gets close to operating speed and ensures that the heater does not come on until there is air flow.
    A quick check on this is to remove the two Red wires from the switch and short them together. Just make sure they cannot short to anything else or get caught on any moving part. Then give it a try. If you get heat then you know it is bad.

    I hope the above makes sense and is useful to you.

Similar Threads

  1. Samsung dryer
    By mtcotiro11 in forum Dryer Repair
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 04-22-2017, 08:01 PM
  2. No Heat Mystery Samsung Dryer
    By Mickeynotaspammer in forum Dryer Repair
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 08-06-2015, 12:08 PM
  3. Samsung Dryer Help
    By JohnBR116 in forum Dryer Repair
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 09-03-2014, 03:02 PM
  4. Need help with samsung dryer
    By Stevegauth in forum Dryer Repair
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-05-2014, 07:05 PM
  5. GE Oven Latch Part Number Mystery
    By mdenbow in forum Range, Oven, & Cooktop Repairs
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 02-05-2013, 08:23 PM

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts