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  1. #1

    Dryer Thermostat keeps blowing

    Model Number: WED8300SW0
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 6-10 years

    I just replaced my thermostat to my dryer and ran two loads and it blew again. My thermal fuse and element all test good. My dryer vent is not clogged. If the element has continuity, could it still be causing the thermostat to blow?

  2. #2
    Below is a manual for your unit.
    https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...XdidFJ6SHRPVzg
    It is 8178559 L-79

    I am assuming that you mean the hi-limit thermostat on the heater assembly.

    Yes the heating element can blow the thermal cut off if it has continuity as it may be grounded.
    Check the heating coil.
    Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
    Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
    Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

    The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
    Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

    Note there are many other things that can cause the hi-limit to blow but the above is the first thing to check

  3. #3
    I have tested the element and that tests good, and is not grounded. Any ideas where i should look at next that could be blowing the thermostat?

  4. #4
    Check that the thermistor is OK.
    Disconnect it and check it at the plug that attaches to the control board as this will also check the wiring to it.

    Check the resistance across the relay contacts output on the control board.
    Do this with one of the wires disconnected.
    This ensures that you do not rad a parallel/alternate circuit path.
    It should be infinite ohms.
    If zero or low ohms then the relay contacts are welded together.

    The above are done with the unit unplugged.

    Check the seals etc. in the unit.
    If there is a bad seal etc. then the unit can suck in room air this then reduces the temperature at the blower and thermistor and causes the unit to run hot.

    Check that the vent and unit are clean of lint.
    Check that the blower wheel is clean.
    Check that the vent into the drum and the lint filter are clean
    Sometimes they can get coated in fabric softener residue and have to be cleaned with soap and water.

    If all the above are OK then odds are that the control board is shot.

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