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Thread: Samsung Dryer

  1. #1

    Samsung Dryer DV400EWHDWR Repeated thermal fuse failure

    Model Number: DV400EWHDWR
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    I have a Samsung dryer, model DV400EWHDWR. I keep blowing the fuse on the heater assembly. Each time I've replaced the fuse, I can get 1 or maybe 2 loads before it blows again.

    I've tested the heater core and the thermostat and both work correctly (heater core heats up and has no contact with housing, thermostat turns off heat at about 170F and turns it back on at about 135F). I've replaced the fuse two times now so I'm pretty sure it wasn't just a bad fuse.

    I'm wondering if it's my control board now. What do you think?
    Last edited by MontanaVike; 05-22-2018 at 09:33 AM.

  2. #2
    I replaced the fuse again and it blew during the first load. I've tested my 240v outlet and it is fine.

    I have a new control board (purchased from PartsDr) but I don't want to install it yet because I may want to return it.

    At this point I'm thinking about just calling a repairman.

    Anyone have any ideas?

  3. #3
    "has no contact with housing"
    Did you check this for grounding with a meter.
    Often just visually is not good enough.

    Did you check the thermistor resistance. It should be about 10,000 ohms at room temperature.
    If OK then heat it up a bit to be sure the resistance changes.

    "thermostat turns off heat at about 170F and turns it back on at about 135F"
    Not sure what or where you are measuring here.
    Looking up the high limit thermostat shows it turning off at 260 and resetting at 210. At least that is what the label says on the part site I looked at.
    I cannot find a blow temperature for the thermal fuse/cutoff on the heater.

    The hi-limit thermostat should not be regulating the temperature as it is just a safety device with the cutoff as a backup to it.

  4. #4
    Thanks for the response.

    1. I did check grounding with a meter. Touched housing and both terminals of heater, no continuity.

    2. I didn't check thermistor resistance. Where is the thermistor? On the heater housing there is a fuse and a thermostat. Is the thermistor located elsewhere?

    3. I tested the heat at the dryer vent outlet on the back of the dryer. I read elsewhere that the heater should cycle at about these temps at this location. (See post #7 at https://www.applianceblog.com/mainfo...g-Thermal-Fuse)

  5. #5
    2. I didn't check thermistor resistance. Where is the thermistor? On the heater housing there is a fuse and a thermostat. Is the thermistor located elsewhere?
    The thermistor is on the blower housing.
    There is also a thermal fuse but it kills power to the motor etc. if blown.

    3. I tested the heat at the dryer vent outlet on the back of the dryer. I read elsewhere that the heater should cycle at about these temps at this location.
    The above looks OK to me so ypou may have an air flow problem between the heater and the blower.

    Check that the holes at the back of the drum (heat input) are clean.
    Check the lint filter. Sometimes that get coated with fabric softener residue and have to be cleaned with soap and water.
    Check that the fins on the blower wheel are clean.
    I am assuming that you have already checked tour vent system though usually if it is plugged the thermal fuse on the blower goes but if you have not checked it and the outside vent I would do that.

  6. #6

    Samsung, Yay

    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    2. I didn't check thermistor resistance. Where is the thermistor? On the heater housing there is a fuse and a thermostat. Is the thermistor located elsewhere?
    The thermistor is on the blower housing.
    There is also a thermal fuse but it kills power to the motor etc. if blown.

    3. I tested the heat at the dryer vent outlet on the back of the dryer. I read elsewhere that the heater should cycle at about these temps at this location.
    The above looks OK to me so ypou may have an air flow problem between the heater and the blower.

    Check that the holes at the back of the drum (heat input) are clean.
    Check the lint filter. Sometimes that get coated with fabric softener residue and have to be cleaned with soap and water.
    Check that the fins on the blower wheel are clean.
    I am assuming that you have already checked tour vent system though usually if it is plugged the thermal fuse on the blower goes but if you have not checked it and the outside vent I would do that.
    Samsung dryers are quirky and can be difficult to repair (and all Samsung appliances for that matter). Repair techs would be surprised how much of the above is true. I know many who check every single part but, fail check the lint filter. Be sure to stay away from LG they are a nightmare appliance brand as well.
    Last edited by F David Rudnick; 06-07-2018 at 04:33 PM. Reason: typo from html coding- not use to it.
    -Fred
    EZ Fix Appliance Repair Las Vegas
    Repair Dude in Chief
    http://www.ezfixappliancerepairlasvegas.com/

  7. #7

    Update.

    Alright, an update

    I have now replaced all thermistors, thermostats and fuses. I have thoroughly cleaned the lint screen and all the duct that goes up to the blower on the front of the drum. I have cleaned the fins on the blower and have cleaned as much of the internal ductwork that I can without taking out the drum. I have also replaced all the duct that goes from the back of the dryer to the outside vent and have reduced the number of bends. I now have a run of about 8 feet of with one 90 degree which is a smooth metal elbow.

    Unfortunately, after 2 1/2 loads of laundry yesterday, the fuse on the heater blew again. At this point, the only thing I haven't been able to clean is the bit of duct that goes from the back of the heater assembly to the back of the drum. Is there an easy way of getting this out without taking the whole dryer apart? To me it looks like I would have to take the drum out to access this.

    Are there any other ideas? I'm on the verge of cutting my losses and buying a new dryer, which my wife is not thrilled about!
    Last edited by MontanaVike; 06-12-2018 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Fixed a couple typos

  8. #8
    Sorry but I have never pulled that part of the ducting out of a unit.

    Did you check that the vent flaps on the outside of the house opened fully.

    Like you I am pretty well out of ideas.
    It sounds like you have decent air flow so the vent etc. should now be OK.

    All that isleft is that the heat relay on the control board is sticking intermittently.

  9. #9
    Yup, the louvers on the vent stick straight out when running.

    I forgot to say that I replaced the control board as well. Basically, anything electrical that I could replace, I did.

  10. #10
    I am also stumped by this.

    Everything that could cause a heater to overheat has been replaced!!!!!!!!!!!

    The only thing I can think of is that the drum is stalling every once in a while and this is stops the air flow.
    Or it might be the drum stalling but then you should see where the motor pulley overheated the belt.

    I hate to say it but it may be time to throw in the towel as throwing more dollars at this unit on grasping at straws guesses is not a good idea.

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