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Thread: GE Profile Side by Side, Bottom Freezer, IceMaker, pulling my hair out

  1. #1

    Angry GE Profile Side by Side, Bottom Freezer, IceMaker, pulling my hair out

    Model Number: PFSS5RKZCSS
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    I have a GE Profile PFSS5RKZCSS side by side, bottom freezer. The ice maker has stopped making ice.

    I don't believe the actual ice maker is the faulty part. Hers's why.
    There is water getting to the ice maker, but it's not freezing completely, and the ice that is in the bucket, has been thawing.

    We removed the freezer door, baskets, and drawer, opened the rear panel and found that the duct fan was pulsing but not actually starting up. I took a screw drive and spun the fun and it stayed spinning. So I ordered a new duct blower fan, part number WR60X10330.

    Got the new fan in, same result with the new fan, so now I'm thinking it's not the fan.
    I did notice that with the freezer door off and me inside it for about 20 minutes when I hit the freezer temp button it showed an actual temp of 0 degrees. When in reality it was probably 70+ in there since the door had been off and I had been inside it.

    I feel like I should order the thermistor (temp sensor) for the freezer, but don't want to waste more money. I've read that if the freezer doesn't read temp that the ice maker will not dump ice. Well if the freezer is reporting 0 degrees, would the ice maker not dump the partially frozen cubes into the ice bucket?

    The other thing that I'm thinking is the main board has an issue. Before I waste any more time/money, does anyone have any different input. I am a DIY home owner, but have a ton of computer repair experience, and basically this is just a giant computer with a condenser. I am a pretty handy guy, and really don't want to dish out a boat load of $ to have GE send someone out.

  2. #2
    Here is a service manual on this unit
    It is 31-9215

    Check that you are getting at least 12 volts DC across the fan.
    If low check this at the board.
    If it is OK at the board then you have a bad wire or connector.
    If it is also low at the board. Then the board is bad.

  3. #3
    great, I'll give it a try, thanks. So I noticed via this thread that the duct fan is PWM (pulse-width modulation), meaning not only is there a 12volt but a speed control as well. We ran the fan test in the service manual and all tested good. I have not pulled everything apart again to check 12 volt since the fan does run on high.

    The manual also shows the ice compartment airflow as the cold air entering through the top hole and the bottom hole is where air should return. It seems the bottom hole is where the cold air is coming from, but it's very light. No air coming out of the top hole, but the does feel warm around the edge. No ice build up anywhere that I can see. thoughts?

  4. #4
    Has there been anything more on this? Seems I have the exact same issue described here.

  5. #5
    It was the main board. 10 minutes to swap out.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by tinyt1553 View Post
    It was the main board. 10 minutes to swap out.
    This is why I go to PartsDr.
    Easy solutions saving me tons of time...
    EZ Fix Appliance Repair Las Vegas
    Repair Dude in Chief

  7. #7
    My main board was replaced under a year ago under warranty for fridge randomly powering off and on. Hoping that's not it again.
    Do you know if I can check the 12VDC at any time or is it dependent on sequence it may be in?

  8. #8
    Sorry but I do not know, perhaps the original poster will jump in and have an answer.

    I imagine for the fan to run the door must be closed or the unit made to think that the door is closed.
    But there may be other sequences that also are involved.

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