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Thread: Oven stopped working... not the board

  1. #1

    Oven stopped working... not the board

    Model Number: Ffes3015lsg
    Brand: Frigidaire
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hi folks

    Having issues with my FFES3015LSG range. Went to use the bake feature but discovered it was not working. Tried to diagnose by checking each element by using broil hi and lo. Neither work. However, the board functions all seem to work, as do the four stove top burners.

    Well, I assumed since both elements are not working its an electrical issue. Also assumed since we had a lot of lightning recently that maybe the board got fried. Stupidly just changed the board ($100 &#128555 only to find out the new board didn't fix the issue.

    What else could cause this? Need to fix ASAP before my wife finds out and I have to hear about how I should have hired a pro 😂


  2. #2
    Also should add, when I set temp to say 450, the display just reads 450 with the oven and preheat lights on. Doesn't start at a lower temp and work it's way up.

  3. #3
    Here is a link to info on this unit.

    I am not sure that this model shows the actual oven temperature.

    Perhaps the Thermal Circuit Breaker has tripped (open) this will kill power to both oven elements.

  4. #4
    Thanks, Denman -

    You are correct... I double checked with my wife and the pre-heat setting does not show actual temperature, only the set temp.

    Speaking to her I also learned that a kettle got left on the stove a LONG time (long enough to melt the enamel on the kettle) a few days before we noticed the oven stopped working. Sounds like it could indeed be a thermal breaker. I took a look at the wiring diagram and it shows two "thermal circuit breakers," one by the ventilation fan (which works fine) and one for the top/bottom oven elements. I assume that's the one I will need to take a look at. Are these typically able to be reset with a push of a button or do they require replacement? I did not see "thermal circuit breaker" listed in the parts diagram, although I did see something called a thermal cut out switch. Not sure if these are one in the same?

  5. #5
    Thermal cut out is probably the correct part.

    Some are resettable, some are not.
    If it has a button (usually red) on the back (connector) side then it is resettable by pushing the button in.

  6. #6
    Have you checked the power to the unit?

    Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

    The above is my usual blurb.
    Your unit may not use a socket/plug.
    The elements require the 240 volts.

    Next thing to check would be the oven sensor.
    Most units are about 1100 ohms at room temperature

  7. #7
    Hey... Thanks. Power to the unit is good. Double checked wiring diagram and noted the thermal cutout fuse handles the light and fan (both working). Apparently the other one shown on the diagram as a "thermal Circuit breaker" is just the thermostat. Per the diagram it would seem a blown thermostat would kill power to both elements. Hoping that's my culprit. Will know on Thursday when it gets here!

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