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Thread: 1" left after any cycle GE# GDF510PGD0WW Replaced both inlet valv and flood sw

  1. #1

    1" left after any cycle GE# GDF510PGD0WW Replaced both inlet valv and flood sw

    Model Number: GDF510PGD0WW
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    Need help. I am at a loss, this problem is beyond me I have a GE with an ultra fine filter so all water should be gone at end of cycle.
    Have replaced both water inlet valve, and flood switch assembly. No luck what am I missing, is there a reset I'm not familiar with.

  2. #2
    I am not sure why you replaced fill parts when you have a drain problem.
    Am I missing something?

    I am assuming that you have cleaned all filers in the unit.

    I would disconnect the drain hose at the house plumbing and let it drain into a pail.
    Be sure the pail is large enough also hold the hose so it does not splash all over.
    I would also put a towel etc. over the pail to prevent splashing then run a cycle.
    This will eliminate the house plumbing as the cause of a poor drain.

    Often the drain line gets plugged where the drain hose connects to the house plumbing.

    If there is still drain problem check the path for the drain.
    I do not see a check valve in the unit but there may be one to stop water from flowing back into the unit from the drain hose.

    If there is not a check valve I and everything else looks OK I would replace the drain motor.

  3. #3
    Dendan; thanks for the suggestions. "My bad" I did not explain my circumstances very well. We had a flood on our floor when we ran the washer on "heavy" setting. Next noticed water was filling, even with door open and cycle complete with light indicating "clean". Shut water off at source cleaned filters and noticed water inlet valve was abnormally hot. So replaced water inlet vlv. That fixed flooding issue, but still have about an inch of clean standing water ever time a cycle was run either on "heavy", "normal", "light", or "rinse" but no more flooding issues this indicates to me that drain is functioning correctly so went to next suggestion and replaced flood switch assembly. No luck, now I'm thinking that maybe there is timing problem. Maybe. I don't know. Help, any suggestions?
    Thanks in advance;
    Peteypie

  4. #4
    I do not think it is a timing issue or at least I have never seen a timing issue cause poor draining.

    You should be able to hear the drain after the cycles Re: pre-wash and wash and if the unit also includes a rinse in the cycles.
    Open the unit after or close to the end of a rinse cycle to see if the unit is empty.
    if it is then the water in the unit is water draining back into the unit from the drain hose.

    I also think my original post is still applicable.

  5. #5
    Denman thanks will try that.
    Peteypie

  6. #6
    I tried Denman's suggestions. What I observed, strengthened my suspicions. After every cycle, ( Heavy, Normal, Light, Rinse) when drain pump had stopped, and tub was empty, and Clean indicator light was on. I would open door and find empty tub, and inlet port, inside of washer on left side, filling the machine's tub. This inlet would allow water to fill tub to approximately 1" even with door fully open. These observations seem to reinforce my original theory, that there is some type of problem with the timing of the cycle. Even the "phone tech" had no idea on what was wrong. Can anyone suggest a remedy for this problem.
    Thanks in advance;
    Peteypie

  7. #7
    Here is a link to a service manual.
    It should be a close match to your unit.
    I is in the olyteddy post part way down the page.
    https://www.appliancejunk.com/forums...2376#msg112376

    Hopefully you have found the tech sheet so any differences can be noted.

    I am assuning that I understand your post correctly and you have confirmed that the water is coming into the unit via the fill vent/assembly on the side of the tub.

    Attach a meter to the water valve and see if it is getting voltage when the unit is doing the incorrect filling.
    The water vale runs on 13.5 volts DC.
    If it is there then I would say the board is bad.

    If it is not there then I would replace the water valve.

    I am also assuming that the unit did not do this extra fill in the past.

    Either way this is a weird one!!!!

  8. #8
    Yup this kinda weird;
    Yes those assumptions are both correct, water filling from fill vent, and previous to replacing water inlet vlv, and flood switch assembly, there was no water at bottom of tub. There is voltage at solenoid of inlet valve. Wouldn't the control board show other anomalies? Isn't there a way to reset or diagnose the board prior to replacement?

  9. #9
    See my prior post for info on diags etc.

    Wouldn't the control board show other anomalies?
    Not necessarily.

    Isn't there a way to reset or diagnose the board prior to replacement?
    I have not read the entire manual so maybee in there is a reset method.
    On most units removing power from the unit for a couple minutes will reset everything.

    You have already confirmed that the board is powering the valve on.
    Manufacturers do not publish board schematics so diagnosing the board components becomes next to impossible.

    I do have one other thought but it is a long shot.
    With the unit unplugged also unplug the connector at the board for the valve/relay.
    Then measure across the valve connections at the board. It should be infinite ohms (relay off and it's contacts open).

    If it is zero ohms or low ohms then the valve relay contacts are welded together and actually not controlling the valve.
    My thought here is perhaps something else is turning the 13.5 volt relay contact power on/off at the end of a complete cycle and this is adding the water.
    Then during the cycle fills it is the float switch that controls the valve and I believe this should just be a safety device (flood protection)

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