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Thread: Samsung Dryer - Fried Wires

  1. #1

    Samsung Dryer - Fried Wires

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Model Number: DV42H5200EW/A3-0000
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    Our dryer recently stopped heating so I pulled it apart and found that the wire connecting the thermostat to the thermal fuse was fried. So, I replaced the wire, thermostat and thermal fuse and it started working fine again. Now, 3 weeks later the wife says no heat again. I pull it apart and now it's fried at the connection to the heating element.

    1. Can I just replace the wire or will I most likely need to replace that ceramic connector piece as well...and can it be purchased separately from the heating element assembly?
    2. Is there something else going wrong here that I should be investigating?

    Also, in Feb 2017 I replaced the heating element, thermostat, thermistor and thermal fuse and things worked fine until a month ago. I think the cause on the original failure was leaves blocking the vent, but I have no idea what is causing the latest problems.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    The following has some info on this unit

    I am not sure if you have the single or double heating element unit.

    It looks like it may just have been a poor connection at the ceramic connector.
    What happens is that a poor connection looks like a resistance to electricity. This causes heat when current flows. this further degrades the connection causing more heat and so on and so on until the connection fails.
    All connectors must be clean and the connectors fit tightly.
    Cleaning the connector with fine emery cloth may do the job.

    You did not say if the unit was cycling the heater on/off.
    I would check the the thermal fuse and thermal cutoffs. all should be 0 ohms.
    Also check the heater. Remove both wires from it and check across the coil, most units are between 8 and 12 ohms
    then check from each connector to the heater case, both should be infinite ohms. if not the heater is grounded and should be replaced.

    Once you get it up and running again be sure to check that the heater is actually cycling at different temperature settings.
    If you do this with the door open do not do it for very long as running the unit with the door open can blow fuses etc.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

  3. #3
    Thanks Denman.

    I cleaned the connectors and replaced the wire/connections and checked continuity. Now we're getting heat again.

    As for the heat cycle...When I set it on Extra Low it does seem to be blowing pretty hot. When set to Air Fluff I think the heat stops.

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