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Thread: Whirlpool Dryer Wont heat _ wont run unless set to heavy duty

  1. #1

    Whirlpool Dryer Wont heat _ wont run unless set to heavy duty

    Model Number: WED9150WW0
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    WED9150WW0 Whirlpool Dryer

    I replaced :
    Dryer Thermal Fuse Part # WP3392519
    Dryer Heating Element Part # WP3387747
    Dryer Thermostat Kit Part # 279973
    I thought before today I had a no heat problem but after replacing the above items I discovered that the dryer will only turn on if I select Heavy duty. Then it will not heat. My next thought is that it could have a bad control board but I wanted to check with someone else first. I tried to google " dryer only works on heavy duty" I couldnt find anything in my search so I am stumped. I replaced the parts above without checking the old parts since I have no way to check them.
    Thanks for any light you can shine in my direction.

  2. #2
    Below is a link to a post on another forum which has the tech sheet.
    https://www.appliancejunk.com/forums...3066#msg113066

    Try running the diagnostics to see if an error pops up.

    I agree with you that the control board is the most likely culprit.

  3. #3
    I came back here to edit my post but couldn't find a way.

    After playing with the buttons more we discovered that all the cycles do work we just have to hold the start button a little longer.
    Thanks for the link. I have the Tech Sheet on paper. I just never used a multi meter before. I suppose it may be time to learn!
    This machine as far as I know does not have diagnostics on it other than following what the tech sheet says.
    Thank you for your time.

  4. #4
    OK so if I understand you the only problem is no heat, correct?

    If the above is true the following applies.

    Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    Check the voltage at the wall receptacle
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Do this with the heater off and on.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

  5. #5
    u are correct the only problem is no heat.

    I will try flipping the breakers but it seems to me that if there was a problem with the breakers or the voltage coming through my spare dryer would also not heat. I have an old dryer that works just fine in the same outlet. I changed the dryer power cord between the two so I think the power cord is also ok.
    I did check the terminal on the dryer that does not heat and the nut on the red wire had fallen down. I corrected this. I dont know if this could have been the problem or not because the screw did catch something.

    I do have someone who can come by to check for 240 if need be.

  6. #6
    Your comment about the Red side of the line having a problem might point to a wiring problem in the dryer.

    The unit uses the Black to White to power the motor and control board. (120 volts)

    The heater uses the Black to Red (240 volts)

  7. #7
    I went and got a multi tester and followed step by step on my tech sheet with it. The next thing on the list is the machine control electronics. Sine this is a very costly part and where the dryer wont heat troubleshooting seems to end I am guessing this is where the heating part of the dryer ends. My question is if this part is replaced will this mean the dryer should work when its replaced? I don't mind putting the money out for this part since our next option is to use our old back up dryer vs using a newer one that is more energy efficient. Our power bills are crazy expensive! Thanks again for all your help.

  8. #8
    I am assuming that you have checked the heater, hi-limit thermostat, thermal cut-off and the thermsitor with the meter and they are all OK.

    I cannot say for sure that replacing the control board will fix your problem.

    You would have to do a live test to improve your odds that it is the problem.
    Set your meter to the highest AC scale (usually 750 AC).
    Place the probes on the Heater +V, N.O. (Bk) and the Heater RTN , COM (R) at the control board,
    Now start the unit in a heat cycle.
    If you see 240 volts then the heater relay contacts are not closing and the board is definitely the most likely suspect.

    If you decide to do this be very, very careful.

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