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Thread: 240v dryer but 120v at coil

  1. #1

    240v dryer but 120v at coil

    Model Number: GEW9250PWO
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 1-5 years

    Not blowing hot, no error codes i replaced coil and all fuses and sensors related to coil and blower. Tested wall outlet.. 240v i test at the red and red w white and get 120. im stumped

  2. #2
    I do not have a wiring diagram for a 9250 but have one for a GEW9200PW0, hopefully they are the same.

    Need more info.
    My diagram show a red/white going from the heater to the hi-limit thermostat. Also there is one from the thermistor to the control board.
    But there are a number of red wires.
    1. L2 from the terminal strip to the motor's centrifugal switch.
    2, Centifugal switch to one side of the heater.
    3. Thermal cutoff to the heater relay contact.

    Where were your meter probes when you got 120 volts?
    Was the dryer running when you did this?
    If it was running have you checked it with the dryer off?

  3. #3
    I do have the detailed wiring diagram. If there is a way I can send it to you let me know. I'm testing voltage right at the terminals of the coil in the housing . There is a red and red with white wire. I'm testing both while it's running (120v) and off (0v). I was told that those wires should be 240v tested while running . I can't make heads or tails out of the wiring schematic

  4. #4
    Here is the schematic

  5. #5
    The wiring diagram did not show up!!!

    Yes there should be 240 volts across the heater coil when the unit is running.

    For you to see 120 volts either something has grounded out or you are missing half the line.

    Test the power at the terminal strip in the unit.
    It should be 120 volts from black to white and 120 volts from red to white.
    Also 240 volts from red to black.

    Do this with the unit off and on.
    It should be about the same in both cases.

  6. #6
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  7. #7
    Got them.
    Hard to make out but the wiring looks about the same as the 9200 diagram I have.

    Check the voltage and post the results.

  8. #8

  9. #9
    at the terminals on the back of the machine not running i got 240v as well as running 240v with 120v on both legs

  10. #10
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    The one thing that is on my mind is what if I didn't put these wires 100% exactly where they were .... Will that cause this and if so how do I know the exact orientation to place them? And is there an "in and out" on the sensors / does it make a difference which side a color is plugged into?

  11. #11
    The in and out on the thermostats does not matter as it is all AC.

    I cannot see clearly how the wires are hooked up.
    It looks to me as if the black is jumped across the cutoff which would be wrong.

    With the unit unplugged and using a high ohms scale measure from each side of the heating coil to ground.
    Both should be infinite ohms (open).
    If not the heater or something else is grounded which is a problem.

    The heater circuit is 240 volts and Neutral/ground is not part of it, so we have to figure out how you can measure 120 volts across it.

    Also has this dryer ever worked correctly at this location/hook up?
    Just trying to eliminate anyone messing with the wiring before you received it.

  12. #12
    dryer has been working fine for over a year in same location.
    coil to ground on both sides + 0 on each
    coil leed to coil leed + 10 ohm ( if that means anything )
    i replaced the heater element, Dryer Thermal Fuse , Dryer Thermister and WHIRLPOOL High Limit Thermostat

  13. #13
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    Hopefully better pics of how it's wired

  14. #14
    I am not sure what +0 means on your meter.
    Is this infinite resistance re: open.
    The same reading you get when you switch the meter to resistance but do not touch the probes together.

    Or is it the reading you get when you touch the probes together re: a short (0 ohms)

    the 10 ohms reading looks OK as this is within spec for the heater resistance..

  15. #15
    im using a fluke 76, when i touch black to ground and red to one of the leads on the coil i get Zero on both leads. If i touch both coil leeds i get 10ohm. if i touch the fluke leeds together i get .3ohms. so i can only assume the the zero reading = infinite

  16. #16
    can you tell from the photos if the wiring is done correctly? you mentioned the black wire didnt look right

  17. #17
    Yes it looks like it is wired correctly.
    Sorry I neglected to answer this in my earlier post saw the m,eter readings and my mind got sidetracked.

    This meter thing bugs me, I just want to be sure that you are reading it correctly before going further into diagnosing this.
    I cannot find anything about this meter and what infinite resistance (open) should look like but many Flukes show 0L for an open.

    You get .3 ohms when the leads are touching but what do you get when they are not touching?

    Also in an earlier picture you showed the meter reading 59.6 volts and it looked like you were reading across the heater relay contacts.
    Am I correct in this assumption?
    This is also puzzling as it should be either o volts or 120 volts depending if the unit is calling for heat on not.
    Last edited by denman; 11-29-2018 at 03:14 PM.

  18. #18
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    Just so we're clear , during testing I'm putting the black fluke probe on the ground / green wire screwed down in front of the bracket in the pic

  19. #19
    When probes are not touching anything I get - O.L -
    I'm not remembering the 59v reading

  20. #20
    OK Lets forget about the 59 v for now.

    It looks like you have a short to ground in the heater circuit.

    Disconnect both wires from the heating coil.
    Measure from each side of the heating coil to ground both should be in finite ohms.
    If not there is a problem with the heating coil.

    If OK
    Measure from each coil wire (still detached from the heater) to ground.
    Both should be infinite ohms but one of them should be 0 ohms since the heater coil was OK.

    Odds are that it will be the Red/White side as there are more components that can go bad on that side of the line.
    Now it is just a matter of working your way back through the circuit to find the short.

    Please post your results.

    Note this has got me scratching my head because a short ("on the coil i get Zero on both leads.") which shows up on both sides of the heating coil should blow the breaker. As one side of the line must be supplying current directly to ground and not through the heater.
    I will try to explain this.
    Lets say the heater is shorted on the red/white side of the coil. When the centrifugal switch closes current flows from L2 (red) through the switch and the heater and 120 volts is dropped across the heater.
    Problem is that when the heater relay contacts close current also flows from L1 through the relay contacts, thermal cutoff and high limit. There should be no resistance (0 ohms) in any of these components so it is a dead short so infinite current flows and the circuit breaker will trip.

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