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Thread: Whirlpool Duet GEW9250PW1 Wont Heat

  1. #1

    Whirlpool Duet GEW9250PW1 Wont Heat

    Model Number: GEW9250PW1
    Brand: Whirlpool
    Age: 6-10 years

    Hello all... I have a Whirlpool Duet electric dryer (MOD GEW9250PW1) that will not heat. Thermal Fuse was blown, replaced with new one but it did not fix the problem. I also replaced the Thermistor but it still won't heat.

    I checked for continuity on the heating element and both thermostats and they appear to be fine.

    I checked to make sure that I have 240v on the terminal block and that checks out.

    Dryer will run, just won't heat. I checked for voltage on the leads that go to the heating coil while the dryer was running and have no voltage to the heating element.

    All vents clear, no lint blocking airflow.

    Would appreciate any help you can provide.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
    I am assuming that you have the tech sheet/wiring diagram.

    With the dryer running measure across the heater relay contacts at the control board (should be a red wire and a black wire)

    On air only it should measure 240 volts.
    On a high heat setting it should be 0 volts.

    If you see 240 volts across the contacts when the unit should be heating then you probably have a control board problem since you say that the thermistor is good.

  3. #3
    Thank you for the reply denman. I checked the heater relay contacts as you described and have 240 volts for both the "air only" and the "high heat" settings.

    I'm assuming that the Thermistor is good since I replaced it with a new one. I tried to check the new one with my analog meter and am not sure.

    Sounds like it's time to find a new control board.

    Thanks again for your help.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Which thermal fuse was originally blown? It isn't very likely that the thermistor would be causing this type of problem.
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    I am assuming that you have the tech sheet/wiring diagram.

    With the dryer running measure across the heater relay contacts at the control board (should be a red wire and a black wire)

    On air only it should measure 240 volts.
    On a high heat setting it should be 0 volts.

    If you see 240 volts across the contacts when the unit should be heating then you probably have a control board problem since you say that the thermistor is good.
    Good afternoon Denman,

    So it's been a while since i originally posted. After testing the heater relay per your recommendation above, I ended up taking the main control board to a local appliance repair shop and they tried to put a new heater relay on the board. During the process, they messed up something with the board and when I got it back I had all kinds of problems in addition to the original issue of not heating. Long story short, the local shop has been trying to find me a replacement board since they fried my original one. They have given me several boards that come in to them on dryers that are being recycled. It's been an interesting venture to say the least because each board that they have provided seems to come with its own set of problems. I finally received one from them that seems to be working. I ran it for a couple of weeks and everything seemed to be working fine except... that the dryer seems to be overheating. The clothes come out so hot that they will literally burn you when you touch them. So the other day the dryer quit working again... wouldn't start, just gave you one beep when you pushed the start button. I checked the main thermal fuse and it was blown again. So, I figured that the high-heat thermostat must be bad since it is getting so hot. I just replaced the thermal fuse (on the blower housing) and both thermostats and it is running again. The only problem now is that it is still over heating. I can't figure out why it's getting so hot, I thought the 2 new thermostats would solve this issue. Shouldn't the thermostats open when it gets to a certain temperature? Also, in an effort to help you understand the problem... the over heating problem occurs on any heat setting... high heat, low heat, even when I run it on no heat "air only" setting. Any ideas on this? I know that it's a reach, but is it possible that the thermostats are not sensing the correct temperature since I have the bottom panel off the dryer? Surely not... Looking for any help that you or anybody else reading this post may be able to provide.

  6. #6
    Sounds like you have had a rough ride.

    I would say that your current problem is from the heater relay contacts always being closed. This could be that they are welded together or that the relay control circuitry is bad.


    Shouldn't the thermostats open when it gets to a certain temperature?
    I am assuming that the thermostats you are referring to are on the heater. One is a high limit thermostat and the other is a thermal cut-off (fuse).
    They are both safety devices and only come into play if there is a problem in the unit.
    So lets say hat for some reason the heater temperature becomes too high, then the high limit contacts open. It's contacts are not that robust so after a while of opening and closing they fail (usually short together)
    The thermal cut-off is a secondary safety so then it blows killing power to the heater.


    Also, in an effort to help you understand the problem... the over heating problem occurs on any heat setting... high heat, low heat, even when I run it on no heat "air only" setting. Any ideas on this?
    That you get heat on an air only cycle is what leads me to believe that it is a heat relay problem.
    One way to check if the contacts is to unplug the unit and the wires to the heater relay and then measure across the contacts. It should be infinite ohms (open).
    If it is zero or low ohms then the relay contacts are welded together.
    Note this does not rule out the relay control circuitry.

    I know that it's a reach, but is it possible that the thermostats are not sensing the correct temperature since I have the bottom panel off the dryer?
    Having just the bottom panel off should not have an effect as long as all cowlings, seals etc. in the air flow path are OK.
    Also the thermistor is the only real temperature sensing device all other thermostats are safety devices.

    Below is a link to a GEW9200 service manual. This unit may be close tou yours.
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzIi...it?usp=sharing

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    Sounds like you have had a rough ride.

    I would say that your current problem is from the heater relay contacts always being closed. This could be that they are welded together or that the relay control circuitry is bad.


    Shouldn't the thermostats open when it gets to a certain temperature?
    I am assuming that the thermostats you are referring to are on the heater. One is a high limit thermostat and the other is a thermal cut-off (fuse).
    They are both safety devices and only come into play if there is a problem in the unit.
    So lets say hat for some reason the heater temperature becomes too high, then the high limit contacts open. It's contacts are not that robust so after a while of opening and closing they fail (usually short together)
    The thermal cut-off is a secondary safety so then it blows killing power to the heater.


    Also, in an effort to help you understand the problem... the over heating problem occurs on any heat setting... high heat, low heat, even when I run it on no heat "air only" setting. Any ideas on this?
    That you get heat on an air only cycle is what leads me to believe that it is a heat relay problem.
    One way to check if the contacts is to unplug the unit and the wires to the heater relay and then measure across the contacts. It should be infinite ohms (open).
    If it is zero or low ohms then the relay contacts are welded together.
    Note this does not rule out the relay control circuitry.

    I know that it's a reach, but is it possible that the thermostats are not sensing the correct temperature since I have the bottom panel off the dryer?
    Having just the bottom panel off should not have an effect as long as all cowlings, seals etc. in the air flow path are OK.
    Also the thermistor is the only real temperature sensing device all other thermostats are safety devices.

    Below is a link to a GEW9200 service manual. This unit may be close tou yours.
    https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzIi...it?usp=sharing
    Yes, it has been a rough ride to say the least. I'm on a mission at this point. I can't allow this thing to win the battle... lol.

    I appreciate the information and will test the heater relay to see if it is always closed.

    Yes, the thermostats that I mentioned are down on the housing for the heater coil. Question... let's assume that the heater relay is faulty and the contacts are always closed. When the dryer starts overheating shouldn't the high limit thermostat open, which would open the circuit and prevent the heater coil from heating?

    Here is the kit that I purchased last week showing the parts that I installed:
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    keep in mind that the thermostats are new. I installed them yesterday.

    Thanks again

  8. #8
    let's assume that the heater relay is faulty and the contacts are always closed. When the dryer starts overheating shouldn't the high limit thermostat open, which would open the circuit and prevent the heater coil from heating?
    Yes it should open. Note that it will close again (cycle) when the heater cools down.
    But the heat produced will be high heat.

    Another possibility is that the heater coil is shorter to ground.
    Unplug the unit and both wire from the heater coil.
    Measure across the heater coil, should be in the 8 to 12 ohm range.
    Then measure from each heater connector to it's case, both should be infinite ohms.
    If not the heater is grounded and needs to be replaced.

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