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Thread: Samsung refrigerator not cooling

  1. #1

    Samsung refrigerator not cooling

    Model Number: RB217ABPN
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hello Forum,

    the temperature indicator for the fridge started blinking yesterday and was showing 48oF, then my wife pressed the "fridge" button and set it to 36, after a while the temperature started to go up, the freezer temperature was showing 2oF but it is definitely not that cold, the food is cold but not freezing.

    I tried to reset the fridge by pressing the "Power Freeze + Power Cool" combination but did not make a difference (the temp kept going up), I tried to disconnect the power and wait for 5 minutes an replug the fridge but still fridge temperature kept going up.

    After every 2 or 3 minutes I hear a click (as if a replay is getting open) but there is no fan on nor any other noise, nor the compressor noise is on.

    what would be my initial steps to try to troubelshoot and possibly isolate the issue and hopefully fix.

    Regards
    Last edited by billkal2019; 01-18-2019 at 03:06 PM.

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Can you tell where the clicking noise is coming from? Is it coming from a control board on the back of the refrigerator or the compressor?
    Ryan
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  3. #3
    Hi folks,

    sorry for late response, I had the chance to do some troubleshooting over the weekend and here are the results in order of action:

    1- tested compressor starter relay by testing continuity from main power cord to CN72 pin #1 , result showed continuity ok
    2- tested voltage between main power cord and CN72 pin#1 voltage meter read 120V which tells me the relay circuit is working fine
    3- removed starter relay and tested resistance between three pin of compressor, results are as follows: between top pin and to its right pin 3.3ohms, between top pin and its left pin 8.7 ohms, between bottom two pins 11.2 ohms
    4- tested refrigerator door switch then I found the culprit (or I think I did) , continuity test tested open circuit for door switch.
    I tried to put a magnet on top of door switch but circuit still tested open, is there any other way to fool the door switch to test closed condition ?
    5- tested freezer door switch it tested closed (as it is supposed to )
    now my question is :

    how to test the door switch is faulty other then use a magnet while waiting for the part to arrive?

    (I already ordered the door switch and waiting for the part)

    Regards

  4. #4
    Hi Doc Ryan,
    thank you for replying, the cliking in coming from the compressor starter relay , I can hear it click after plugging the fridge into power. I did some troubleshooting over the weekend and I put the results below

  5. #5

    schematic diagram used for rb217abpn

    Added the diagram of the schematic I used for testing.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails diagram_of_RB217APBN.jpg  

  6. #6
    I am not sure why you are looking at the door switch.

    Your check at connector 72 and the clicking at the compressor shows that it is getting power.
    It sounds like it is over heating the thermal/current protect and tripping it.

    Could be the start PTC, the capacitor or the compressor itself.

    The PTC and the capacitor are difficult to check so usually you just replace them and see if it works.
    If not then odds are very high that it is the compressor..
    Just because the compressor windings measure OK does not mean it is good.
    It could have mechanical problems stopping it from running/starting.

    I seem to have a problem finding these parts.

    You may want to check the voltage at the compressor just to be sure it is getting the full 120 volts.

  7. #7

    door switch

    Hi,

    while troubleshooting , I tested some of the sensors and door switches, the freezer switch showed the correct closed circuit because freezer door was closed, while refrigerator door switch tested open circuit despite the fact that refrigerator door being closed (I expected door switch to also show closed circuit or 0 ohms or close to it, instead it showed open circuit, which led me to believe it is the issue, if board detects open door, I assume the board will prevent compressor from starting.

    Regards
    Last edited by billkal2019; 01-29-2019 at 06:47 PM.

  8. #8
    I agree with you but then you should not see any voltage going to the compressor.

    I cannot find much info on this unit so I am not sure how it is plumbed.
    I looks like a dual evaporator unit some of these have the two evaporators plumbed in series, others us a valve to switch between the evaporators.

    My thought is that the fresh food door switch may just shut the evaporator fan off in a series unit or in a valve system it directs the freon to the freezer evaporator.

    You could place a jumper/short across the door switch.
    Often a paper clip across the connection will do the trick.
    Looks like Connector 33 pins 2 to 7 (brown to grey).
    Not 100 % sure on this as the diagram is hard to read.
    Be sure that the unit is unplugged when placing he jumper and that it cannot short to anything else.

  9. #9
    Hi,
    I changed the starter relay (DA35-00135A) and olp (DA35-00043U) , I plug the fridge to power, display lights came on, temperature starts going down on both fridge and freezer, I touch the compressor and it is hot to the touch, compressor fan is on, when the temp display shows 39 for fridge , I open fridge door and test temperature with a thermometer it shows it is still 70oF inside the fridge, same for freezer. I tried to run diagnostics by pressing "Power Freeze + Power Cool" for 8 secs but fridge does not start self diagnostics (panel still displays temp reading), I am running out of ideas , please help.

    Regards

  10. #10
    Now this has me stumped.

    My best guess is that there are two problems.

    1. The board is reading the actual temperature incorrectly. Also the diagnostics not running points to a control board problem.

    2. The compressor is not starting but is getting voltage. This is the one I would look at first because if it is a sealed system problem then it will be an expensive repair and probably not worth doing.
    Measure at the compressor to confirm that it is getting 120 volts. If yes then the compressor is toast (I think)
    You could try removing the capacitor, perhaps it is dragging the voltage down.

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