Originally Posted by
DryHero
Greetings Samsung Friends! I have Samsung EVERYTHING! Phones, TV's, monitors, refrigerator...oh and, ugh, this Samsung VRT front load model WF56h9100AG/A2 (not model WTF...) washing machine. Four years old, purchased from LOWES, sigh. Three weeks ago it stopped working during a load of laundry (towels). It was just sitting there, alone in the dark and would not spin/agitate to complete the cycle.
.
Error code 3E2 read in diagnostic code. Washer fills and drains without issue. Door locks and unlocks without issue. Have tried reseting machine by removing power. Have even tried encouraging it by talking firmly and profanely to it. Never any change.
.
SYMPTOMS
Power machine on, there is a faint audible "click" from the motor inverter board (capacitor I suspect). Start any wash cycle...
1) machine drains
2) door locks (confirmed locked)
3) machine drains again
4) machine starts intermittent filling
5) drum barely moves an inch, or not at all...you can hear and feel faint clicking coming from motor
6) never goes beyond this point
OBSERVATIONS
With power off, drum is very easy to rotate by hand. As soon as machine is powered on, but not engaged in a wash cycle, the drum still turns by hand but has noticeably more resistance. After powering machine off, drum ramains more difficult to rotate until green LED stops blinking on inverter board (approx. 8 second lag?). There is also a faint capacitor(?) pop on inverter board after machine is powered down.
Note: with machine powered off, green LED on inverter board will flash when drum is manually hand rotated.
.
On my own, replaced main board (PCB), motor stator, motor rotor and hall sensor. Considering trying inverter board, sub-PCB and harness.
.
STATOR
Verified both stators to be good by measuring resistance between motor winding coils. Both stators (new and old) measured 10.8 ohms accross all three terminals of motor (not 6 or 15 as shown in Fast Track Troubleshooting Guides). Voltage at motor does fluctuate between 0 and 3.75V when motor is phisically rotated by hand.
.
HALL SENSOR
Both new and old hall sensors had identical resistance readings between 4 pins.
.
HARNESS
Have visually inspected wiring harness for damage. Have phsically manipulated, wiggled, pushed and pulled on every connection of harness terminations and wires themselves. No impact.
.
SERVICE MODE (pwr on + Soil Level + Delay End)
In service mode option 5 - SPIN TEST (RPM) (Delay End + Temp for 3 sec), drum doesn't spin but again you can hear and feel faint clicking coming from motor as it attempts to engage. If you slowly rotate the motor rotor in this mode, it will "catch" and the rotor will firmly jump a fraction of a rotation and then back to clicks with no movement. So I know the motor is getting signal/power from inverter board. Could I have 2 bad hall sensors? Soooooooooooooo frustrated.
.
Please advise!