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Thread: Whirlpool Duet Dryer WED9400SU0 blowing thermal fuse...what else to replace? [FIXED]

  1. #1

    Whirlpool Duet Dryer WED9400SU0 blowing thermal fuse...what else to replace? [FIXED]

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    I have a Whirlpool Duet Dryer model WED9400SU0.

    The thermal fuse went out last week. I replaced the fuse and fully cleaned the vent and internals of the dryer as well as the full path to the outside of my house.

    Dryer ran through 5-6 loads and the thermal fuse has again failed. Dryer is running hot...I can tell by touch at the end of the cycle. The clothes are VERY hot.

    From what I understand, the thermistor could be the problem, but it usually throws an error code. I have not entered any diagnostic mode. Would the error code show in just normal operation?

    Any ideas from any wonderful experts here?

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    When you cleaned out the vent/dryer was there a lot of lint built up in it?

    I would first check to see if the heating element is shorted out. When the vent or blower housing of the dryer get built up with a lot of lint the dryer won't vent out the heat properly and it can cause the heating element to warp and short out against the cabinet. To check for a shorted element you should unplug the dryer and remove the bottom panel. On the right side you will see the heating element, remove the two wires that connect to the element. With a multi-meter, check to see if you have continuity from either side of the element to the cabinet that hold the element. You should NOT have continuity when you check for this, if you do the element is shorted out and will need to be replaced. You can also pull out the element and do a visual inspection, sometimes you can see where the element coil is touching the housing. When the element is shorted out, it will continue to heat when the dryer isn't calling for heat. They will even heat with the dryer not running, so make sure to unplug it for safety reasons.

    By the way, which thermal fuse did you replace? The small white one?
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Thanks Doc! I replaced the small white fuse, part number 3392519.

    There was quite a bit of lint, but not necessarily enough to make me think the heat could not be expelled.

    I will test out the element using the method described.

    I really appreciate the assistance!

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atx_duet View Post
    Thanks Doc! I replaced the small white fuse, part number 3392519.

    There was quite a bit of lint, but not necessarily enough to make me think the heat could not be expelled.

    I will test out the element using the method described.

    I really appreciate the assistance!
    Let me know what you find out on the heating element.

    Anytime I see the blower thermal fuse (3392519) go bad, I always replace the thermistor with it at the same time. I just like to cover my bases and not have more problems.

    This is the thermistor and heating element for your dryer:
    Thermistor Control - 8577274


    Heating Element - 8544771
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    Hey there Ryan.

    I unplugged the two wires to the heating element.

    Tested for continuity with a multimeter. I got a tone from the bottom connection and the cabinet that holds the heating element. Top connector to the cabinet did not show continuity. I guess it is shorted.

    It looks pretty involved to get the element out. Is that the case?

    Thanks again for the help!

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atx_duet View Post
    Hey there Ryan.

    I unplugged the two wires to the heating element.

    Tested for continuity with a multimeter. I got a tone from the bottom connection and the cabinet that holds the heating element. Top connector to the cabinet did not show continuity. I guess it is shorted.

    It looks pretty involved to get the element out. Is that the case?

    Thanks again for the help!
    Yes, that is definitely shorted. To get the element out you have to remove the cabinet that holds the element. Here is how I do it. With the dryer unplugged I remove the bottom panel, then I disconnect all of the wires that attach to the side of the heater element cabinet (make note of what wires go where), next I remove the front support that holds the front of the cabinet to the base of the dryer. With all of those pieces removed you can pull/twist that heating element cabinet and get it to pull out. Then with the heating element cabinet out of the dryer, you just remove a few screws and put in the new element.

    Getting it back together is basically the reverse of how it came apart. The hardest part is getting that heating element cabinet into the back of the dryer again. But basically you do the same as you did to get it out. Just push/turn to get it back in. Its tricky, but it will go.

    That's the best way I have found to do it without having to pull the whole dryer apart. If you find a better way, let me know! Also keep the vent/dryer clean of lint and you will prevent that element from burning out in the future.
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    Thanks Ryan. Ordering the parts today!

    Great forum!

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by atx_duet View Post
    Thanks Ryan. Ordering the parts today!

    Great forum!
    Thanks, let me know how it works for you.
    Ryan

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  9. #9
    Hi Ryan.

    Replaced all the parts this morning. Dryer is now running, but not heating. I labeled all the connectors before removing them, so I'm pretty sure I got it all back together correctly.

    Any ideas?

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Sometimes when the heater shorts out like yours did, the heater box (hi limit) thermal fuse can blow too if it got hot enough. Check it for continuity. Let me know what you find.

    They don't sell just the thermal fuse. It comes as a kit with the thermal fuse and thermostat.
    Thermal Fuse & Thermostat - 280148


    This is the one here:
    Ryan

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  11. #11
    Thanks again Ryan. I'll check it out.

  12. #12
    I have a similar scenario were the dryer quit. I found a clog and changed the thermal fuse (small white one) and cleaned out clog. Dryer ran for two loads, second got very hot and quit. Now thermal fuse is blown and when I bypass it the heating element does not get hot. There is 120 vac going to each terminal. The element itself is not shorted to ground but reads infinity terminal to terminal instead of 7-12 ohms. The hi limit thermal fuse next to the thermostat meters good (0 ohms). could the thermostat also be bad?

  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B0scar View Post
    I have a similar scenario were the dryer quit. I found a clog and changed the thermal fuse (small white one) and cleaned out clog. Dryer ran for two loads, second got very hot and quit. Now thermal fuse is blown and when I bypass it the heating element does not get hot. There is 120 vac going to each terminal. The element itself is not shorted to ground but reads infinity terminal to terminal instead of 7-12 ohms. The hi limit thermal fuse next to the thermostat meters good (0 ohms). could the thermostat also be bad?
    Could you get me the model number of your dryer?

    Anytime the blower thermal fuse blows (small white one), the thermostat that sits next to it needs to be replaced at the same time. In order for the fuse to blow the thermostat had to fail first. If the element reads infinity, then the element is bad and will have to be replaced. Elements can burn out from getting too hot and lack of air flow. So double check the vent and also check the blower housing of the dryer (underneath where the lint filter goes) to check for any air flow restrictions.
    Ryan

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  14. #14
    Model number is WED8300SWO
    Thx for the help!

  15. #15
    Upon further troubleshooting I found some more clogging in the duct under the lint filter. Also found the break in the heater, so that's definitely bad. Took more meter readings - Thermal fuse (white one) infinity. Thermister at room temp reads 10.93 k ohms (readings fluctuate as temp changes) . Thermal cut-off(on heater cage) reads 0. And the high level thermostat (heater cage) reads 0 and has a nice rattle if you shake it, so I think its fried as well. Vacuum everything I could since its tore apart and doable checked house dusting! Thanks!

  16. #16
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I believe that thermistor is supposed to read approximately 10k ohms at room temperature. Any time I see that thermal fuse blow, I always replace the thermistor next to it at the same time (just in case it is intermittently bad). The rattling noise you are hearing from that thermostat is normal, but you could replace it to be on the safe side too (it comes with a kit that includes the high limit thermal fuse and thermostat). When you pulled the heating element out, did it look like it had shorted out at all (coil touching the frame)?

    These are the parts for your dryer:
    Heating Element - 8544771


    Thermal Fuse - 3392519


    Thermistor Control - 8577274


    High Limit Thermal Fuse & Thermostat - 279973
    Ryan

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  17. #17
    Yes there was a spot on the frame that actually was cracked and raised up to touch the heating coil. That is where it "arced" and shorted out before burning thru itself. Thx for the advice and I was planning on replacing the other components as well just to be on the safe side since I had the dryer disassembled anyways!

  18. #18
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    The heating elements will crack/warp and short out from a lack of air flow. So make sure to keep the vent and blower housing on the dryer clean. If you do that and replace those parts then you should be good to go!
    Ryan

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  19. #19
    Thanks again for all the assistance!

  20. #20
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by B0scar View Post
    Thanks again for all the assistance!
    Let us know how it works for you.
    Ryan

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