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Thread: RSG257AARS Freezer Door Wire harness - how to replace it?

  1. #1

    RSG257AARS Freezer Door Wire harness - how to replace it?

    Model Number: RSG257AARS
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 6-10 years

    Hi

    After seeing an intermittent "PC Er" on the front control panel, sometimes it would go away with a freezer door open/close. Then it went on solid. It's a Micom communication error. After checking the connectors and not clearing the error, I opened the back Main PCB cover. I then did a continuity check on the wires going to the control panel. I found one of the communications wires open. After checking at the upper connector to the panel, the brown wire at pin 2 was not continuous or connected anymore. I separated the wire bundle going down into the top hinge to isolate the brown wire and it simply slid right out. The break is fairly clean at about 2 inches below the hinge where it enters the door.

    I'm trying to figure out how to reconnect it, but there does not seem to be a replacement harness and my inspection shows that the harness appears to be unable to be separated from the door. I think it may be buried in the foam. I was hoping to remove the inner plastic shield at that point, but it looks like it is glued in place. I can't find any assembly screws or snap closures after removing the upper Ice assemblies.

    Do I have to replace the whole freezer door? Has anyone seen this type of wire break before?

    Thanks
    Bart

  2. #2
    Hopefully someone will jump in who has experienced this and has a better answer that I have.

    Looks to me that you are correct in that the door has to be replaced and it is about $400.00.

    I would probably try a jiggery pokery fix as you know that it is just the one wire.
    Also it should be a low voltage wire.
    Perhaps you can run another wire down the side of the plastic on the door if there is room or beside the door seal.
    With a little luck it will fix your problem and not be noticeable.

  3. #3
    Thanks. I got it working. I had 3 plans of attack. A) See if I could repair the wire up near the hinge. Plan B was to snake a new wire (yes it's a low voltage communications line to the front panel) by drilling 2 strategically placed holes in the ABS inner shell then foam them again and replace the ABS that came out. (I've snaked a lot of wires in my day.) Plan C was replace the door but that was 1) not trivial moving all the working parts over, 2) Special Order taking 2 weeks at least, 3) the possibility of the finish on the stainless looking different than the fridge door, and 4) expensive ($380 + shipping).

    Plan A worked but it was like doing micro-surgery trying to capture, strip, and solder the wire fragment at the bottom of the hinge cavity. I taped the door closed and removed the hinge giving me a 1" hole to work through. The wire fragment was at the bottom where the hinge ended and cut clean. I stripped the end with a scalpel and hemostat. Fluxed it up and tinned it using a special hand made thin extension for my soldering iron. Then I put a newly tinned piece of wire around it (made a small loop in the end of the new wire). Then loaded up the soldering iron and touched the loop and fragment. It bonded well so I used hot melt glue to cover the splice and when it cooled, I shoved it down below where the hinge could reach it.

    As soon as I connected the new extension wire to the original harness on top, the "PC Er" went away and it's been working fine since yesterday. I pulled the harness protector down far enough into the hinge that I'm hoping it eliminates the wire cutting threat. Time will tell. But if it fails again, plan B is the way to go, then Plan C as a last resort.

    Thanks for the help.

    Bart

  4. #4
    Glad to hear that you are up and running.

    And thanks for getting back to us. Now when others search for a similar problem they will see what actually worked instead of just suggestions about what could be a fix.

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