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Thread: Stackable washer and dryer

  1. #1

    Stackable washer and dryer

    Model Number: WSM2700DAWWW
    Brand: GE
    Age: More than 10 years

    My dryer heating element still is on with door open and drum stopped. If I manually move the timer to off it will quit. I installed a new timer control and it does the same thing. What part is still out?

  2. #2
    I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so am just guessing.

    It could be a grounded element.
    Check the heating coil.
    Unplug the unit and both wires to the element.
    Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
    Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by denman View Post
    I cannot find a wiring diagram for this unit so am just guessing.

    It could be a grounded element.
    Check the heating coil.
    Unplug the unit and both wires to the element.
    Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
    Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case.

    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.
    Thanks so much. I will give it a try.

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