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Thread: GE Monogram ZIC36NABLH Full Water Pan Underneath Now Leaking

  1. #1

    GE Monogram ZIC36NABLH Full Water Pan Underneath Now Leaking

    Model Number:
    Brand: Brand
    Age: Less than 1 year

    Model Number: ZIC36NABLH
    Brand: GE
    Age: More than 10 years

    First off, let me say I HATE this refrigerator, but I need to keep it working until we sell the house.

    We noticed tonight that there is a small amount of water that is leaking from the front of fridge. I opened up the small plastic grate at the bottom of the fridge (this model is a built-in) and it appears that the water is coming from a pan underneath of the fridge that is full. I couldn't see any additional water dripping/flowing into the pan, but could see a reflection off the water's surface that appeared to be condensation on the surface above the pan. While soaking up some of the water I noticed there were multiple warms spots around what little of the pan I can access.

    Full disclosure, about a month ago the unit was making a high pitched sound for most of the day until you opened the freezer door. After a day or so, it stopped.

    I presume the two are connected, and my assumption is some sort of evaporator fan is malfunctioning since I don't hear the standard fan sound when closing the freezer door. However, I was only looking at the unit for 15 or so minutes before I determined I needed to start researching the issue, so the time period is short.

    I am pretty good at self repairing items like this, but I have found very little details on this model so I'm hoping that someone smarter than myself can shed some light/direction. TIA.

  2. #2
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    Below is a link to a parts breakdown for this unit, just so you can see what is where.
    https://www.searspartsdirect.com/mod...igerator-parts

    Below is a post I found on another website that may be helpful to you
    For anyone with a noisy drain pan fan on a Monogram BM refer circa 2000 here is how to fix it. Remove kickplate. The fan is located on the left and is hidden behind a metal plate. You cannot see the fan nor the electrical connections. At the top of the metal plate is a single screw that attaches the plate to the bottom of the refer (bottom of freezer section). Remove the screw (you will need an extremely short screw drive) and the plate comes off. If the copper water line is in the way you may have to undo the copper water line and move it aside. With plate removed you will see the fan next to the water valve for the ice maker. Undo the electrical connection to the fan. You are done with a noisy fan unless you want to replace it. However, it is not necessary to replace the fan unless you live in a very humid area. As noted in this thread, the drain pan is heated and a fan is not normally required. Note that a replacement is very expensive - $450-700.

    I would pull the unit away from the wall.
    Remove the rear cover and check that the evaporator tray fan is running.
    I would think that the compressor, the condenser/compressor fan, the evaporator/freezer fan and the evaporator tray fan should all be on at the same time.
    This is part 5570 in the Controls & Components section at the Sears parts site.
    Also check the condenser fan.
    Clean the Condenser coils and the fan blades.
    Also clean the front kick plate.

    I doubt that it is a problem with the evaporator fan in the freezer.

    Unfortunately it looks like this part is obsolete so you will have to pull the fan if it is bad and find a suitable pancake fan that will do the job from another source.

    If all is clean and works then check your door seals, could be there is an air leak and it is letting too much moist air into the unit and therefore too much water from defrost.

  3. #3
    Thank you for your help!

    Unfortunately this is a built in model and I cannot pull it away from the wall. However, I believe all other fans are operating correctly. Did you happen to find reference to the exact part number of 5570 in the diagram? GE no longer even lists the part, but I have a place near me that remanufacturers some appliance parts, so they may have one.

    Also, do you think the reference to $450-700 is for the heated drain pan mechanism? Seems a bit high for a small plug in fan.

  4. #4
    Doc
    Join Date
    Mar 2016
    Posts
    709
    I cannot say what the $450-700 included.

    I find a part number of WR49X10016. It is described as a Evap Heater Kit. Unfortunately I cannot find what is included in the kit.
    Also found a part number of WR60X10037 but again cannot find a proper description.

    I have never worked on one of these so the following is just speculation.
    Since you felt warm spots I would say that your pan heater is OK.
    I am guessing that the fan gave out because "out a month ago the unit was making a high pitched sound for most of the day until you opened the freezer door. After a day or so, it stopped."could be the fan starting to fail and then it finally seized up.
    On most units air is pulled in on one side of the kick plate by the condenser fan. It is then blown over the condenser coils to cool them and then travels over the drip tray and out the other side of the kick plate.
    Why GE made things more complicated is anybodies guess.
    To fix this properly the unit will have to be pulled.
    I do not like having a seized fan motor as it can heat up and cause a fire.
    Most motors have a thermal fuse that would blow and open the motor windings so overheating/fire is not a problem but I have no info on this motor so am cautious/worried about it.

    I do not know what you can get at from the front.
    There is a possibility that a jiggery pokery fix may work by mounting a pancake fan to pull air out of the drip tray area and blow it out the kick plate.
    Perhaps even just removing the kick plate would help getting some air circulation into that area.

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