Model Number:
Brand: Brand
Age: Less than 1 year
Model Number: DV365ETBGWR/A3
Brand: Samsung
Age: 6-10 years
My dryer is not heating and shuts off after a couple minutes. It even shuts off during the timed cycle. If it weren't shutting off during the timed cycle I would assume heating element.
Would a faulty moisture sensor cause the dryer to think the clothes are dry?
Any other thoughts?
Below is some info on the unit
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...3RPWjFwOWh6VFE
The heating element and it's control are both common to both cycle types so it still could be a problem area.
The moisture sensor is not used in timed dry so I doubt it is a problem.
The first thing to check is the power.
Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly, sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
If this does nothing, check the voltage at the plug
L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
If OK
Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
If OK
Check the power at the terminal strip.
Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!
Thank you for the information. I will trouble shoot and let you know what I discover.
Denman, I looked at the links you included and the service manual that is in the link is for a DV231. I have a DV365ETBGWR/A3. Will the service manual still work for my model?
I am not sure about the service manual. Some parts of it should be applicable.
The tech sheet though should be OK.
PS: The only reason I suggest checking the power first is that I have seen many folks tear a unit apart and pull their hair out only to eventually find is was the power.
Last edited by denman; 08-22-2019 at 03:10 PM.
It turned out to be the thermal fuse on the heater assembly. My Samsung has a removable back panel by the vent pipe. Remove two screws and you can access quite a bit of the lower half of the dryer without removing the top, front, or drum. I removed the wires of the terminals and then used a multimeter to run a continuity check on the element, thermistor, and thermal fuse. I replaced the faulty fuse and everything works. Whole job, from start to finish was about 30 minutes. That includes pulling it away from the wall and putting it fully back into service. The million dollar question is "what cause the fuse to fail?" Hopefully it was just a faulty part.
The picture on the left shows the heater assembly. Thermal fuse is on the far left. It was also held by two screws. The picture on the right is the vent pipe cover I was able to remove.
Hope this helps others.
Last edited by Jhart43; 08-23-2019 at 08:55 AM.
I usually recommend also replacing the hi-limit thermostat when the thermal fuse blows.
It is supposed to open/close if a overheat situation occurs is the heater assembly protecting the thermal fuse.
But the contacts on them are not very good so eventually the fail (often short/weld together) then the thermal fuse which is a secondary safety device blows.
A number of things can cause the fuse to blow.
Try a no heat cycle if you have heat then there is a control/heater problem.
First check that the holes going into the dryer drum are clean, that the lint filter is clean, note that often it can get coated with fabric softener residue and has to be cleaned with soap and water.
Check that the vent system is clean. Also would not hurt to check that the blower wheel is clean, dirt/dust on it can greatly reduce air flow.
Another possible cause could be a shorted heater coil, this can cuaes a hot spot or always on condition in the heater.
Check the heating coil.
Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.
Lastly it could be a heater relay or its control/board problem.
Check the thermistor resistance.
Unplug the unit and the connections at the board for the heater (1P connectors 1 and 2) and measure across them. Should be infinite ohms. If not the rely contacts are welded together.
Lastly it could be that the board is not regulating the temperature correctly. This could be electronic or perhaps the relay contacts sticking together very once in a while.
And yes it could be a defective thermal fuse but that does not happen very often but you may get lucky in that it was the only problem.
Thanks Denman!
Great information.
Do you know which switch is which device?
This is very helpful. Amazing how much lint collects underneath.
High Limit Thermostat Mfg # DC47-00018A is the part in the middle. The Thermal Fuse Mfg # DC47-00016A is on the left (fattest from the element terminals).
ok thank you. I just got them out. The fuse continuity goes to zero quickly. Whereas the thermostat slowly goes to zero, but i move at all it jumps up pretty quick...is that an indication that its broken?
Thank you again for responding.
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