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Thread: Maytag Bravos XL Dryer

  1. #1

    Maytag Bravos XL Dryer

    Model Number: MEDB850YG2
    Brand: Maytag
    Age: 6-10 years

    Dryer will power on and run but has no heat. Should we replace the thermal fuse or heating element?

  2. #2
    If you do not own a meter, I would suggest you purchase a one. You can get a decent digital multimeter for under $20.00. You do not need fancy though it is nice if the leads are a couple feet long.
    If it saves ordering one unnecessary part it has paid for itself and you end up owning a useful tool.
    Most places will not let you return electrical parts so if you order it, you own it.
    A couple things to watch when measuring ohms and continuity
    1. Always remove power from the machine otherwise you could blow your meter.
    2. Always disconnect at least one side of any device you are checking. This eliminates the possibility of measuring an alternate/parallel circuit path.
    3. When checking for closed contacts and continuity use the lowest scale (Usually 200 ohms). Then try higher scales. This scale is 0 to 200 ohms so if the device you are measuring is 300 ohms this scale would show an open circuit which it is not, you are just measuring outside the scale's dynamic range.
    4. When you start always short the meter leads together. This will tell you that the meter is working and if there is any 0 offset.

    NeTry flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    Check the voltage at the wall receptacle
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Do this with the heater off and on.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!xt check the power.

    Next would be the heater and it's thermostats.
    Check the heating coil.
    Unplug the unit and both wires to the coil.
    Check it with a meter, should be around 10 to 12 ohms.
    Then check from each side of the coil to the case/frame, both should be infinite ohms (open). If not the coil may have sagged or broken and is touching the case. This can cause it to run on high and the thermostats cannot regulate it so the thermal cut-off blows.

    The hi-limit should have regulated the temperature so the fuse did not blow, that is why there is a new one with the thermal cut-off..
    Note: That unless there is another problem in the unit the hi-limit should never have to open. It is just a safety device with the fuse being a backup safety device.

    Just in case it is not a grounded element.
    With all the below the high limit will also have to be replaced.
    Check that the belt is OK.
    Check the seals (drum etc) in the unit. The air is pulled over the heating coils, through the drum and pushed out the exhaust. So any large seal leak will pull in room air and the cycling thermostat on the blower will run the unit hot.
    Check that the lint filter is not coated with fabric softener residue which greatly reduces air flow.
    Check/clean your vent system.
    Check/clean the blower wheel.

    If all OK you may want to replace the cycling thermostat as it's contacts may not be opening (welded shut)

    Below is a post on another site that has a tech sheet just in case you do not have it.
    https://www.appliancejunk.com/forums...8841#msg108841

  3. #3
    Thank you so much! Will get to working on this.

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