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Thread: Ice maker not working correctly

  1. #1

    Ice maker not working correctly

    Model Number: 106.52709100
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: More than 10 years

    I just replaced the emitter board and now the ice maker will make 1 round of ice kick it out and refill but it won't eject it anymore. It's just frozen ice in there now. What the heck could I have done?

  2. #2
    the door switch appears to be working. I hold the emitter flap in and the door switch in and the emitter stops flashing which indicates it's working. It seems like the heater isn't working so it can eject the ice.

  3. #3
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    What are you doing to get it to make the one batch of ice? Manually removing the ice from the ice maker? Is the ice maker filling up with water on its own?
    Ryan

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  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Ryan View Post
    What are you doing to get it to make the one batch of ice? Manually removing the ice from the ice maker? Is the ice maker filling up with water on its own?
    It does it on it's own. I don't manually do anything to it. After I installed the new emitter (both sides) it loaded the tray up, froze and ejected the ice. Then refilled the tray, froze and that's where it stops. That's happened twice.

  5. #5
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    It sounds to me like the ice maker is bad. There are 3 components on your refrigerator for the ice maker. The ice maker, optic control boards, and water valve. It sounds to me like the water valve is working okay, if it is filling up the ice maker with water, and you just replaced the optic control boards, so that should rule out those as being bad (there is a small chance that they are defective). So that should narrow it down to the ice maker as being the culprit. I have added Whirlpool's service information on how to test the ice maker below. Warning, the tests that they have you do involve live electricity and you can risk getting shocked/electrocuted or even death.

    COMPONENT DIAGNOSTICS MODE (RUN OPTICS DIAGNOSTICS PROCEDURE FIRST)
    1. Disconnect the power supply.
    2. Slide the ice maker out and remove the cover.
    3. Jumper holes “T” and “H” to bypass the bimetal and start a harvest.
    4. Reconnect the power supply.
    5. Close the freezer door to align the optics and a harvest cycle will begin in 5 seconds.
    6. Open the freezer door and observe the ice maker. A “harvest” should be in progress.
    NOTE: If holes “T” and “H” are properly jumpered and the ice maker will not run, stop the test, and check the ice maker.
    7. Remove the jumper before the fingers reach 10:00. Reinstall the ice maker, or be prepared to catch the water fill during step 8.
    8. Disconnect power immediately after the water fill.
    9. With the freezer door closed, reconnect the power supply.
    10. Wait 5 seconds, to a maximum of 50 seconds, then open the freezer door, and watch the Status LED for one of the following codes.

    Status LED Output Codes
    4 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the relay is defective. Replace both the emitter and receiver boards.
    3 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the optics and relay are okay, but the ice maker is not being sensed, or will not operate. If this happens:
    • Check the bail arm switch to make sure it is On.
    • Check the ice maker circuit and the connections back to the receiver board and neutral.
    • Check the ice maker components.
    2 PULSES, repeated once, indicates the optics are blocked, or defective. Clear the optics path, and repeat the “Optics Diagnostics Procedure.” Replace both boards, if necessary.
    STEADY LIGHT for 5 seconds indicates the relay and optics are okay, and the receiver senses the ice maker.
    NO LIGHT: Unplug the refrigerator for 5 seconds, and repeat the test.

    This is the ice maker for your refrigerator:

    Ice Maker Assembly - 2198597
    Ryan

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  6. #6
    doc, I jusmped it and it seemed to work that way. It had been out of the freezer all day so there was no ice to harvest but it appeared to go through the motions of harvesting the ice. I pulled it back out and pulled the jumper and it contimued rotating and it filled as it was supposed to do. But when I taped the emitter flap and the door switched closed I just had a steady emitter flash. it appeaed to be 1 second intervals and continuous. I didn't see that code on your list.

  7. #7
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Those flashes sound like what it does in normal operation? You could have a bad thermostat in the ice maker that is causing it not to cycle when it's supposed to. Putting the jumper in T & H bypasses that thermostat.
    Ryan

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  8. #8

    Freezer

    Doc, thanks for all your help but it appears to be working again. I don't know why. Unless there's an issue with the flap or door switch cause I have them taped right now. I'm goin to untape them before I go to bed to see what happens. Thanks again for your help. maybe the jumper wire clicked something into place. But why would it harvest one load and then stop? Well if it starts it again, I have the part number for a new one.

  9. #9
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    You could have an intermittent problem, and those are the hardest ones to diagnose. If it starts acting up again, let me know what you find was causing the problem.
    Ryan

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  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Ryan View Post
    You could have an intermittent problem, and those are the hardest ones to diagnose. If it starts acting up again, let me know what you find was causing the problem.
    If it does this again, I'll probably replace it all together. I'll send it to ya COD if I do. LOL

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