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Thread: [FIXED] Estate Dryer Stopped Heating.. Could use some advice?

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Estate Dryer Stopped Heating.. Could use some advice?

    Model Number:
    Brand: Estate
    Age: 1-5 years

    So before I begin I would like to give a shout out to this website and forum which has already been pretty helpful. And now on to my problem..heh


    So a week ago my dryer stopped heating. Everything seems to work except I get no heat. I pulled it apart and so far I checked the timer and switches at the top and seem to get good continuity. When I checked the thermal fuse it read as a short on my multireader. So did the thermostat next to the thermal fuse and the high limit thermostat. Also on the heater box towards the top was another thermostat? That actually did have continuity. I tested the heater box the way it showed in the replacement heater article and got got 9.6 ohms resistance.

    So...? does this mean the heating element is fine? I didnt take it out or look at it... but if its ok i would rather not mess with it. Does this mean I probably just need to replace the thermal fuse and thermostats? if so should i also replace the thermostat at the top of the heater box?

    Is there anything else I should check or probably replace? doe this sort of thing happen often? I will be sure to clean out the dryer vent and whatever else i can but ididnt see too much lint?

    Ok, well thats my ramble... hope someone is able to lend some advice... thanks again and have a great day.
    -earl-

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Earl,

    Can you get the model number of the dryer for me please? It should be on a tag around the door frame when you open the door.

    9.6 ohms on the heating element should mean that it is good. All of the thermal fuses and thermostats should have continuity, if they do not, then they are bad and they will need to be replaced. Which thermal fuse didn't have continuity?
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    tedx540rq1 is the model number.

    the long skinny thermal fuse on the blower housing had no continuity along with the 2 thermostats one was next to the thermal fuse on the blower and the other was at the bottom of the heater element box.. there was one more at the top of the heating box but it tested fine.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    You will need to replace all of the parts that do not have continuity. Also, I would recommend to check the heating element for a short, see below.

    To check for a shorted element you should unplug the dryer and remove the back panel. On the right side you will see the heating element, remove the two wires that connect to the element. With a multi-meter, check to see if you have continuity from either side of the element to the cabinet that hold the element. You should NOT have continuity when you check for this, if you do the element is shorted out and will need to be replaced. Heating elements normally short out from restricted venting and/or lint buildup inside the dryer. Make sure to check for this before replacing any parts on the dryer.

    These are the parts for your dryer:

    Heating Element Assembly - 279838


    Thermal Fuse - 3392519


    Dryer Cycling Thermostat Kit - 694674


    High Limit Thermostat - 3977767
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    looks like its shorted out... i had continuity from each of the element to the housing... i took it out and it was pretty black.. i didnt see any breaks in the wire though.

    im gonna take most of the thing apart and clean the lint out. i havent seen much yet... and i will check the exhaust vent to the outside.. my only other question is the thermostat at the top of the heater box... that still seems to have continuity.. should that be ok? thanks for everything!

    will be ordering within the next couple of days.

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Make sure you leave the dryer unplugged until you fix this problem, as a shorted heating element can cause the dryer to heat even when it isn't running. I would check the dryer blower housing (where the lint filter slides into), exhaust venting, and the cover on the outside of the house for lint build up. If the fuse on the heater box has continuity, then it should be good. Let me know how the repair goes for you.

    This is the heater box thermal fuse for your dryer. It is a kit that includes the high limit thermostat. Using the thermostat in this kit my require do a little bit of wiring to make it work.

    Thermal Fuse & Thermostat Kit - 279816
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    Well, I got the new parts and installed them all and no luck. Same situation, turns on and runs but no heat. Im now thinking that maybe I checked everything backwards? Maybe the parts I ordered were the ones working and the others were wrong.. The old fix-a-dryer book I was looking through showed checking continuity with a simple light checker. I have a digital multimeter that I've never really used before. I was assuming that the beep with the letters Shrt meant short or bad and that meant the part was not right but now im thinking I had it all backwards!? Not really sure what Im looking for I guess. Any suggestions on where to start would be awesome since at this point I can't really afford a new dryer. Thanks again! and sorry to bug you.

    -earl-

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Earl,

    I think you are probably right, you might have been reading it backwards. I haven't seen a multimeter read that before, but on yours I am guessing that if it says shrt then that probably means the part has continuity. To test this, if you touch the two probes of the meter together and it reads shrt, then that would confirm that shrt = continuity. You might pull out the owners manual for the meter if you have it, and see if it explains things betters. So your high limit thermal fuse on the heater box probably needs to be replaced (only sold as part of kit part number 279816).
    Ryan

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  9. #9
    yea the wording in the radio shack manual was confusing but your right i finally put the tester prods together and checked... oh well.. what other parts should i test? would the high limit be enough to shut the dryer from heating?

  10. #10
    i checked the little black box by the timer and that also had no continuity... is that a problem? the only other thing i can also think to check is the centrifugal switch... is it worth taking things apart further to test this?

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by prockoe View Post
    would the high limit be enough to shut the dryer from heating?
    Yes this part will make the dryer not heat.
    Ryan

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  12. #12
    yup! she's running now! whhoooo hoooo... thanks so much.... finally had some extra coin to get that last part.... everything is running like new.

  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Great, I am glad you got it going! Was it the high limit thermal fuse that finally got it going?
    Ryan

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