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Thread: Dryer wont heat

  1. #1

    Dryer wont heat

    Model Number: dv42h5200ep/ac
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 6-10 years

    I have been working on this dryer for a few days now... checked the heating coil it is good and checked the other 2 sensors on that housing they are good ,
    I even checked the centrifugal switch it is good .. so I tried to run the dryer with out the drum on and I had heat.. put every thing back together and no heat what can it be?

  2. #2
    How did you check the centrifugal switch?

    Do you have the tech sheet/wiring diagram?

    I am assuming that when you ran it without the drum that you had to activate the belt switch manually.
    Is That correct?

  3. #3
    with an ohm meter set on audio took off the wire clip and checked the red wires by moving the black donut shape on the shaft once pulled back it set of the beep (seen video on you tube explaining how to check it)

    no tech sheet / wire diagram

    yes before it would run I had to make sure the belt tightener was not touching the switch

  4. #4
    Below is a link to some info.
    It is for a 5000 unit but should be close to yours.

    Just because the centrifugal switch can be activated manually does not mean the the assembly/part is OK. The test you did can tell you if it is bad but not 100% that is is good.

    Note that running the unit with the drum out can be a problem. If you run it too ling it will blow the thermal cutoff on the heater.

    The first thing to check is the power.
    Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    Check the voltage at the wall receptacle
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Do this with the heater unit off and running with a high heat setting.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

  5. #5
    ok i flipped the breaker a few times tried the dryer no heat unplugged dryer tested the wall plug got 122 , 122 and 245 checked the wires on terminal all good and tight and not burned plugged back in checked power at terminal strip got the same reading but I don't understand what you mean by.. Do this with the heater unit off and running with a high heat setting
    Last edited by Jodyst; 01-08-2020 at 11:16 PM.

  6. #6
    Check it with the dryer off,
    Then start the dryer and check it with the dryer running.
    Just make sure the dryer is set to a heating mode.
    Too much hassle replying so I have left!!!!

  7. #7
    ok I did that and the power is the same

  8. #8
    OK Good.
    I am using the last diagram in the link of wiring diagram as a reference.
    Unplug the unit and set your meter on it's most sensitive resistance scale.
    Before starting short your meter leads together so that you know if there is and how much of a zero offset there is.
    Measure from the black of the terminal strip to 1P1 (black ) on the control board. Should be 0 ohms.
    Then from the red on the terminal strip to a red on the motor (one side of the centrifugal switch). One of them should be 0 ohms.
    Now measure from the other red of the centrifugal switch to the 1P2 (blue) on the control board, It should be between 8 and 12 ohms (heater resistance).

    If all OK then all that is left it the centrifugal switch and the heater relay/control board.

    To check the centrifugal switch I usually just short the two reds together.using a short jumper wire (Copper from 14/2 electrical wire Just make sure it cannot get caught in any moving parts and cannot short to anything else.
    Then plug the unit in and give it a try. If you have heat then the switch is bad. This is only for testing purposes, do not leave the jumper in there.

    Another way to check it to disconnect the blue a 1P. Attach one meter lead to the wire/connector, the other lead goes to Neutral or ground. Meter set to 200 volt scale. Then turn the unit on. If you have 120 volts then you know that the L2 side of the line is getting all the way to the heater relay but for some reason the relay contacts are not closing.
    Too much hassle replying so I have left!!!!

  9. #9
    ok so I did all the checks

    black of the terminal strip to 1P1 (black ) on the control board is 0 ohms
    red on the terminal strip to a red on the motor is 0 ohms
    other red of the centrifugal switch to the 1P2 (blue) on the control board is 9.9 ohms
    shorted the two reds together using a short jumper wire 14/2 electrical wire.. no heat
    disconnected the blue wire at 1P tested and got 123 volts

  10. #10
    OK Take a look at the Fast Track info in the link I gave.
    It gives info on checking the thermistor.
    Do that and if it is OK then odds are high that you need a new control board.
    Too much hassle replying so I have left!!!!

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