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Thread: [FIXED] Kenmore 800 Series Dryer HELP!

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Kenmore 800 Series Dryer HELP!

    Model Number: 800
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 1-5 years

    Hello,

    Can't figure what is wrong with my dryer, it just stopped mid dry and will not respond at all. I've checked several items to which are not the problem, at least I'm certain their not. Push button has continuity as well as the two sensors near the motor, timer seems to be OK, but not 100% certain as there seems to be no power going anywhere other than the light? I've had it almost completely apart checking everything twice and still dead in the water. Is there something I'm missing, any ideas to what I should be checking that these units are prone to? Thank anyone for there help.

    Jim

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Jim,

    I will need the full model number from the tag on the dryer to help you with this.
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Hello Ryan,

    Model number is 110.69822801, other numbers are DDOT ELE 2406024 EH54. I've tried the new circuit board which I believe should have been the problem but no dice on that, is there a chance that the new one could be bad as well? I've checked the two sensors just above the motor and they check out fine. The push button has continuity as well as the timer which both seem simple enough in design. The safety switch at the motor checks out OK. The door switch is also working fine. Only thing that I do not know how to check is the motor itself.... Any help or direction just shy of calling the repair man is helpful. Thank you very much in advance. Also dryer is less than two years old.

    Jim

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    It is not very likely that the new control board and the old control board would have the same problem. Does the dryer make any noise when you press the start button? There are also two relays on the back console, one is for the motor and one is for the heater. If the motor relay is bad, that could cause the dryer not to run. You could try swapping the two relays around (they are the same part number) to see if that is the problem.

    This is the relay for your model:

    Power Relay - 3405281
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    Ryan,

    No on both accords, No noise on pushing the button and I switched the relays with no change in operation. We'll get this bugger working yet. : )

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Here is what I would check. Check to see that you have 240v coming to the dryer. Check both of the thermal fuses for continuity (one is on the heater box, and one is by the blower), check all of the contacts on the timer for continuity using the chart on the schematic. Let me know what you find.
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    Hello Ryan,

    Lucky I checked both Thermal fuses when I had it apart, they were both good. Question on the timer as I ran a continuity on it before for which I will again recheck tomorrow, should there be continuity on both plug in terminals or just one? If both plug terminals should be showing continuity then there is my problem. I will recheck this later tomorrow with schematics. Also timer does not make any running noises. Thank you.

    Jim
    Last edited by JimB; 11-14-2012 at 08:53 AM.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Jim,

    There is also a belt break switch on your model. This is on the idler pulley that keeps tension on the belt, and it will cause the dryer not to run if the belt breaks or the switch is bad. I would suspect your problem is more likely with the timer though, they are much more common to fail. In the tech sheet/schematic there is going to be a table. It will tell you which contacts of the timer should have continuity and should not have continuity at certain times. Each wire terminal on the timer is labeled (A,B,C,F,X, ect). Make these checks on the timer and let me know what you find.
    Ryan

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  9. #9
    Hello Ryan,

    I checked the belt switch and found that it checks out, I looked at the schematics and sorry to say cannot read the hieroglyphics or chicken scratches because I never followed along in that class. I'm the Tim Allen type, put the screw driver in an wait for the sparks : ) Anyway in my words this is what I found with the timer...working with my circuit checker (not the screw driver) I found continuity only on one plug side at two settings and none linking the two plugs sides. In looking where each wire originates and passes through I am certain that no circuit can be closed through the timer and therefore the timer is most likely the culprit and not the circuit board as I had earlier determined (do you need a new circuit board : ) Do you think my calculations are correct, or at least how I stated it? If so, I'll need a timer; however I note that you do not have the 10185997 listed for sale : ( Any chances you all might be able to acquire one for me? Let me know what you think regarding my guesstimation of the problem. Thank you again Ryan, you have been most helpful, we'll get this bugger firing yet and then we'll all go out for a jeep ride : )

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    In the tech sheet of the dryer, it should have a chart that looks like the attached image (it might even be the same). This is what you have to go by to make the continuity checks. Another test that you can do with the timer, is remove it from the dryer and shake it. If it rattles, then something has broken off inside and it will need to be replaced. That might be more of the "Tim Allen" test you were looking for

    We do sell the timer for your model, you can click the link below:

    Timer - W10185997
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Screen Shot 2012-11-16 at 1.48.45 PM.jpg  
    Ryan

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  11. #11
    Hello Ryan,

    I think the Tim Allen test confirms that it is in fact the timer as there is a very small piece of plastic (and I mean small) broken off and its not clicking like it used to (according to my wife). Anyway, I'll order up the timer and see what happens. Even though it was not the circuit board it still might be cheaper than calling in the repair guy (if it works and I don't get fried) : ) Thank you again for all your help.

    Jim

  12. #12
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I am glad the Tim Allen test was conclusive! A small piece broken off inside the timer is enough to cause something inside the timer to not make a connection. Let me know how the dryer works after you replace the timer. And if you are driving through South Dakota, I will definitely take you up on that Jeep ride!
    Ryan

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  13. #13
    Hello Ryan,

    Got the new timer which seems good and correct; however still no go. Changed the circuit board just to be certain, still no go. Timer starts then stops, relays click when door is opened or push button is depressed. I even switched the relays back to the original which makes not difference. This has really got me stumped. : ( Anymore suggestions before I have to call it quits and buy a new one as I am already over $180 in parts? I know its got to be something simple as that's how it usually is. : ) Thanks again.

    Jim

  14. #14
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Under the dryer will not run section in the troubleshooting guide, it says to check line voltage, harness/connection, motor relay, push to start switch, thermal fuse, belt switch, motor, door switch, and control board. They only thing they left out of the list is the timer. Did you ever do a voltage check on the power coming into the dryer?
    Ryan

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  15. #15
    Hello Ryan,

    Dryer is working fine, human error on the last issue as the timer was the main problem. Got to putting it back together way to fast and forgot to replug the motor. . Thank you again for your help, now to fix my hard drive on my computer Have a Happy Thanksgiving.

    Jim

  16. #16
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Jim,

    Great to hear! I updated the status of this thread to FIXED. Have a happy Thanksgiving too!
    Ryan

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