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Thread: Replaced WR55X10942 mainboard. Cooling some, but not getting cold

  1. #1

    Unhappy Replaced WR55X10942 mainboard. Cooling some, but not getting cold

    I'm having a similar problem. I have a GE Profile french door bottom freezer fridge model PFS22MISBWW s/n AL041187. Label on the condensor indicates manufacture date in 2005. Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	106The display stopped working consistantly weeks ago, but then the fridge stopped getting cold. There was a periodic clicking noise. The condenser fan blower wasn't working although the condensor was hot.

    I ordered, received and installed a WR55X10942 mainboard. Now the display works and the condenser fan blower is working. The fridge is trying, cooling some, but not getting cold after almost 24 hours. In the beginning I was hearing the clicking a lot, now, not so much. The condensor is now hot.

    With the installation instructions there was a discussion about cutting the wire to pin 2 on the 9 pin connector, but I don't have a wire there. There is a green wire down by the condensor that goes to ground. I don't see a capacitor as pictured in the installation instrucitons. There is a green and yellow wire that goes into a plug, but it comes from ground. Picture attached.

    Any suggestions?

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgrzebie View Post
    I'm having a similar problem. I have a GE Profile french door bottom freezer fridge model PFS22MISBWW s/n AL041187. Label on the condensor indicates manufacture date in 2005. Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CIMG2815.JPG 
Views:	9 
Size:	175.4 KB 
ID:	106The display stopped working consistantly weeks ago, but then the fridge stopped getting cold. There was a periodic clicking noise. The condenser fan blower wasn't working although the condensor was hot.

    I ordered, received and installed a WR55X10942 mainboard. Now the display works and the condenser fan blower is working. The fridge is trying, cooling some, but not getting cold after almost 24 hours. In the beginning I was hearing the clicking a lot, now, not so much. The condensor is now hot.

    With the installation instructions there was a discussion about cutting the wire to pin 2 on the 9 pin connector, but I don't have a wire there. There is a green wire down by the condensor that goes to ground. I don't see a capacitor as pictured in the installation instrucitons. There is a green and yellow wire that goes into a plug, but it comes from ground. Picture attached.

    Any suggestions?
    When the condenser fan motor stops working, it causes the back compressor & condenser area of the refrigerator to get very hot. It is very common when this happens for the start relay to fail. I would unplug the refrigerator, and remove the old start relay. If you shake it and it sounds like it is rattling or small little pieces start coming out of the start relay, then it is bad and you will have to replace it. Let me know what you find.

    This is the start relay for your model:

    Start Relay & Overload - WR07X10097
    Ryan

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  3. #3
    Thanks for your prompt reply. I removed the part. I shook it and no rattling or loose parts. Twice in 24 hours the fridge has made ice, but then gotten warmer (cool instead of cold). If this part were bad, could it explain that? There is a capacitor WR62X79 plugged into it. It seems fine too. Where do I go from here?

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgrzebie View Post
    Thanks for your prompt reply. I removed the part. I shook it and no rattling or loose parts. Twice in 24 hours the fridge has made ice, but then gotten warmer (cool instead of cold). If this part were bad, could it explain that? There is a capacitor WR62X79 plugged into it. It seems fine too. Where do I go from here?
    Are both the refrigerator and freezer sections not cooling? Do you hear the compressor running?
    Ryan

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  5. #5
    both are cooling, just not cold enough. I think the compressor is running. It's vibrating and warm/hot anyway. I know the compressor fan is running. I think it makes that clicking noise too much, so I'm not sure it stays running.

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgrzebie View Post
    both are cooling, just not cold enough. I think the compressor is running. It's vibrating and warm/hot anyway. I know the compressor fan is running. I think it makes that clicking noise too much, so I'm not sure it stays running.
    Is the clicking noise coming from the compressor?
    Ryan

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  7. #7
    I think it's coming from the control board. After sitting plugged in all night, it's 67 in the fridge and freezer. The condensor is warm, the condensor coil doesn't feel warm. If I had to guess I'd say the condensor wasn't even trying to run. There's no vibration.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by mgrzebie View Post
    I think it's coming from the control board. After sitting plugged in all night, it's 67 in the fridge and freezer. The condensor is warm, the condensor coil doesn't feel warm. If I had to guess I'd say the condensor wasn't even trying to run. There's no vibration.
    If the compressor is warm, then it has either been running, or it has been trying to run. Do you have an ohm meter, or multimeter?
    Ryan

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  9. #9
    yes.
    I do.

  10. #10
    I just found this got split off into another thread. I hadn't heard back from you. I have an ammeter. What do want me to do?

  11. #11
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I moved your posts into a new thread to make things less confusing.

    I would like to have you ohm out the two horizontal terminals on the start device. To do this, unplug the refrigerator and remove the start device from the compressor. Stick one of each of the two probes from the ohm meter in the back of the start relay.Let me know what the results are.


    ..*
    *. *
    <------ Ohm out these two terminals
    Ryan

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  12. #12
    Sorry it took so long. someone "cleaned" my desk and I still cannot find my ammeter. I had to buy another.
    The pins are 2 above and one below. Opposite of what you have above. Measuring between the 2 positioned horizontally I get 14-15.

  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    That is a good ohm reading. Do you hear the fan in the freezer section running? Sometimes the door switch has to be held down for the fan to run.
    Ryan

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  14. #14
    I left the back panel off the fridge that protects the condensor. The fan wasn't running until I replaced the control panel. Neither was the temp display inside the fridge. Since then they both work. If I had to guess, I'd say that the condensor is trying to run, but not really running full blast. Although it's warm, it isn't really hot, and I think when it runs normally it vibrates more and makes more noise.

    The fan inside the freezer is working too.
    Last edited by mgrzebie; 12-01-2012 at 10:26 PM. Reason: oops

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Was the refrigerator cooling about the same before you replaced the control board?
    Ryan

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  16. #16
    Yes, it was. It would get cold enough to make ice, but then warm enough for the ice to melt. Very odd. The control board did fix the display and the condensor farn not running issues, so I think that was necessary. As to what else is wrong...

  17. #17
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    The next thing that you will need to check is the frost pattern on the evaporator coil in the freezer. You will need to unplug the refrigerator, and remove the back lower panel in the freezer section. Next, plug the refrigerator back in, and let it run for 15-30 minutes with the door closed. After it has been running for 15-30 minutes I will need to know if the coil has a light layer of frost covering the whole coil, part of the coil, or not at all. If you can, post up a picture or two. Unplug the refrigerator and put it back together when you are done.
    Ryan

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  18. #18
    That was a pain to get apart. The coils don't frost up or even get cold. The fan blows. It feels like it's a little cooler inside the freezer than out, but barely.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  19. #19
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    So it looks like there is just a little bit of frost on the top part of the coil? If so you have a sealed system or compressor problem. This is an expensive repair and it will have to be done by a licensed and trained technician.
    Ryan

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  20. #20
    No frost at all. That picture was from before, when it was completely turned off. It didn't look any different or feel cold at all so I didn't take a picture after running for 20 minutes. The condensor is a little warm, but I don't really think it started up. I get that occasional clicking from the control board.
    Last edited by mgrzebie; 12-03-2012 at 11:04 PM. Reason: typo

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