[FIXED] Kenmore/Whirlpool 80 series washer speed/burning smell

[lwmi2048]

Model Number: 80 series
Brand: Sears Kenmore
Age: More than 10 years

Hello. I've got a Kenmore (Whirlpool) 80 Series washer that has been a dependable appliance for many years. Recently we noticed it started producing a burning smell when it enters the fast speed during a cycle. It does not have a burning smell during the slow cycle. So today I started a cycle and as soon as it entered the fast speed and the burning smell started, I stopped it and switched the speed to slow, however it would continue to run at the fast speed. I finally got it to run slow again by turning the speed switch to ultra slow then back to slow. The second thing that we have noticed is that there's a clicking noise for a split second every time the motor starts, but the noise only lasts for a split second and it will not make the noise until the motor stops and has to start again. Other than these two things, everything else works fine.

Here's what I have done so far: 1) Checked resistance of the windings of the motor, they all come out fine. 2) Replaced the speed switch, but it did not make any difference. 3) Checked the motor capacitor which so far tested OK.

Any ideas of what else I can look at, or any idea of what could be wrong here? Based on the fact there's a burning smell, I am guessing it's related to the motor, but not sure what exactly.

Thank you.

[Doc Ryan]

Do you have the model number of the washer? https://partsdr.com/model-number-loc...ashing-machine

Do you see any grease/oil on the inside of the cabinet of the washer?

[lwmi2048]

Do you have the model number of the washer? https://partsdr.com/model-number-loc...ashing-machine

Do you see any grease/oil on the inside of the cabinet of the washer?

Hello and thanks for the reply. I believe the model # is 110.20892990. I do not see any oil in the cabinet area at all. I did recently replace the gearcase with a brand new genuine Whirlpool one, about a year ago, FYI.

Thanks again.

[Doc Ryan]

I would inspect and clean or replace the clutch. I have seen oil get on the clutch and cause the washer to act like you are describing. Let me know what you find.

Clutch Assembly - 285785 (PD00002503)

[lwmi2048]

OK thank you for this information. I will take a look at this soon. The only thing that seemed weird to me is the motor speed seemed to be acting strange as it wouldn't run on slow until I moved the dial to Ultra Slow, then to Slow, so I thought it was entirely an electrical issue. And that only happened just before the second agitate cycle. But since I swapped that with a new speed switch that rules it out as being the cause. I also checked the connector at the motor, no signs of it being burned, etc.

Thank you.

[lwmi2048]

Today I started to dig further in to this. After removing the motor, I decided to check over the centrifugal switch a little more as I only looked for burnt terminals before. I found the info for checking that switch, and it tests OK. However, in looking closer at the way it works, the piece inside the motor with the weights and springs on it is loose and doesn't really spin with the motor shaft. It sort of spins, but while spinning the motor shaft I can hold it still as it isn't really attached to the shaft itself. Shouldn't that piece be spinning at the same RPM as the motor for this to work correctly? If so, I suspect that may be part of our problem. I appreciate your help.

[FrankD.]

I have a Whirlpool direct drive motor on the work bench and the centrifugal switch is fixed to the shaft.

[Doc Ryan]

Today I started to dig further in to this. After removing the motor, I decided to check over the centrifugal switch a little more as I only looked for burnt terminals before. I found the info for checking that switch, and it tests OK. However, in looking closer at the way it works, the piece inside the motor with the weights and springs on it is loose and doesn't really spin with the motor shaft. It sort of spins, but while spinning the motor shaft I can hold it still as it isn't really attached to the shaft itself. Shouldn't that piece be spinning at the same RPM as the motor for this to work correctly? If so, I suspect that may be part of our problem. I appreciate your help.

I haven't disassembled one of these motors before, so I am not sure if that is normal or not.

[lwmi2048]

I have a Whirlpool direct drive motor on the work bench and the centrifugal switch is fixed to the shaft.

That's kind of what I figured. I am 99% sure that could be our issue, so I ordered a new motor this morning from this site (price is competitive). Will see how it goes, thanks.

[FrankD.]

You said you checked the Capacitor, do you have a Capacitor meter?

I wonder why they mounted your Capacitor so far from the motor.

[lwmi2048]

You said you checked the Capacitor, do you have a Capacitor meter?

I wonder why they mounted your Capacitor so far from the motor.

The capacitor on this motor is directly attached to the motor itself. I used the method shown here: https://www.applianceaid.com/capacitor-testing.php

However I also did use a capacitor meter and ESR meter to double check it.

[lwmi2048]

Received the new motor yesterday, installed today, and we are back in business - thank you! I believe the problem was in fact the centrifugal mechanism inside the motor being loose, and not activating the centrifugal switch properly. This mechanism on the new motor spins with the shaft, the old motor does not. Basically it looks like whatever attaches it to the shaft just wore out over time. And unfortunately it looks like the motor housing itself is sealed so it can't be easily taken apart, at least not that I could see. I hadn't run across anything mentioning this out there, so hopefully this may help others with the similar issue in the future. Most of the troubleshooting steps I saw regarding this said it was the timer or speed switch causing this to happen.

Thanks again for your help.

[Doc Ryan]

Received the new motor yesterday, installed today, and we are back in business - thank you! I believe the problem was in fact the centrifugal mechanism inside the motor being loose, and not activating the centrifugal switch properly. This mechanism on the new motor spins with the shaft, the old motor does not. Basically it looks like whatever attaches it to the shaft just wore out over time. And unfortunately it looks like the motor housing itself is sealed so it can't be easily taken apart, at least not that I could see. I hadn't run across anything mentioning this out there, so hopefully this may help others with the similar issue in the future. Most of the troubleshooting steps I saw regarding this said it was the timer or speed switch causing this to happen.

Thanks again for your help.

Thanks for the updates! Your diagnosis of the centrifugal mechanism makes sense to me. I have updated this to FIXED.

Here is a link to the motor for anyone else that needs it.

3 Speed Drive Motor - WP3352287 (PD00002452)