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Thread: [FIXED] Samsung dryer runs, no lint clogs, good airflow, but no heat at all

  1. #1

    [FIXED] Samsung dryer runs, no lint clogs, good airflow, but no heat at all

    Model Number: DV448AEPXAC
    Brand: Samsung
    Age: 1-5 years

    Bought the Samsung front load combos probably about 4 years ago.

    Just the other day the dryer has stopped generating heat. No error codes, no lint trapped anywhere, good airflow out the vents and it appears all other functionality is good.

    Everything appears fine, but the heat has stopped. No heat whatsoever.

    I'm decent with a wrench/screwdriver - I've already removed the panel around the exhaust hose and everything looks ok there, cleaned out and lint lying around, checked the smaller access panel on the top right on the back and the connections there all look good.

    Haven't broke out the ohm meter yet (and I would need help on what to set it on) - but something is blown in there. I know to unplug the power and the harnesses before checking for continuity.

  2. #2
    Breaker was not tripped.

    I measured the hi-limit and thermal cut-off and the numbers jump around but land on 0.03, so from what I can tell those are good.

    I want to check the third harness it but it doesn't look to slide out too easy once I remove the one phillips screw...

  3. #3
    It was the heating element. The coil has a break in it.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lbrowne View Post
    It was the heating element. The coil has a break in it.
    Great, I am glad you found the problem. They sell the heating element as an assembly, or you can get just the element. I would recommend checking your dryer vent for any restrictions, this is the main reason these elements burn out prematurely. Let me know how the repair goes for you.

    These are the parts for your model:

    Heating Element Assembly - DC97-14486A


    Heating Element - DC47-00019A
    Ryan
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  5. #5
    I was able to get a heating element here with the sensors in it for 80 bucks, I'll keep my previous sensors as spares since they checked out good.

    Dryer gets nice and hot now!

    I never had any clogs but my wife says she relies on the machine to tell her for a filter check of lint. I always clean it before any load is put in. So I'm assuming that cleaning it regardless before putting a load in is the best way to go right?

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Great, I am glad you got it fixed! I updated the status of the thread to FIXED. Yes, you should always clean the lint filter before every load, even if the light isn't on. What I was referring to is making sure the exhaust vent that vents outside the house is clean. This can build up with lint over time. Also make sure to check the cover on the outside of the house.
    Ryan
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  7. #7
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    Same symptom but new problem

    I have a Samsung dryer also not heating (drum turns and I see plenty of air coming out the vent, but no heat in an empty dryer). I've already removed the heating assembly and verified continuity through thermostats, and heating element is intact with about 10 ohms resistance.

    Other sites indicate this is likely a problem with the main control board, but would love to hear what someone else thinks. I've also seen on one other site that sometimes a voltage problem can cause this (they say to check for 240v, and if it's not quite there, throw the breaker a few times). This sounded weird, but again I'd love more feedback.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenbohrer View Post
    I have a Samsung dryer also not heating (drum turns and I see plenty of air coming out the vent, but no heat in an empty dryer). I've already removed the heating assembly and verified continuity through thermostats, and heating element is intact with about 10 ohms resistance.

    Other sites indicate this is likely a problem with the main control board, but would love to hear what someone else thinks. I've also seen on one other site that sometimes a voltage problem can cause this (they say to check for 240v, and if it's not quite there, throw the breaker a few times). This sounded weird, but again I'd love more feedback.
    That is correct, first you should check to see if you have 220-240v coming to the dryer. In some cases you can lose one side and the dryer will run with 120V but not produce heat. The main control boards are pretty common to go bad on these, and when they fail they can also cause the dryer not to heat.
    Ryan
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  9. #9
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    Cool, I hadn't seen a response yesterday, so when I went back out to check on the dryer, I checked voltage which was fine. I'd also had someone tell me to check the thermal fuse and thermistor on the blower output casing, and both of those were fine. I went so far as to leave the heating element unplugged, but hooked everything else back up, and saw 120v on the red lead, and nothing on the blue (which comes from the relay), so I came to the same conclusion.

    Ironically, the cheapest part was from... Parts Dr... and I was very happy with their service. I ordered the part yesterday at 4:30 pm PST, and even though it was past their cutoff.. the part shipped yesterday as well. Got it today at 10:30 am.

    Went to replace the part, and noticed the blue lead coming off the relay was a little burned... assuming the relay coil shorted and burnt out or something. After I dropped in the new part, voila... dryer worked fine.

    Thanks again for having such a useful site both for advice, and to get the parts I need. Parts Dr is now officially my favorite appliance repair site.


    Also, FWIW, my dryer isn't quite the same model... it's Samsung model DV328AEW/XAA. But the advice here was spot on.
    Last edited by stevenbohrer; 03-28-2014 at 10:00 PM.

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by stevenbohrer View Post
    Cool, I hadn't seen a response yesterday, so when I went back out to check on the dryer, I checked voltage which was fine. I'd also had someone tell me to check the thermal fuse and thermistor on the blower output casing, and both of those were fine. I went so far as to leave the heating element unplugged, but hooked everything else back up, and saw 120v on the red lead, and nothing on the blue (which comes from the relay), so I came to the same conclusion.

    Ironically, the cheapest part was from... Parts Dr... and I was very happy with their service. I ordered the part yesterday at 4:30 pm PST, and even though it was past their cutoff.. the part shipped yesterday as well. Got it today at 10:30 am.

    Went to replace the part, and noticed the blue lead coming off the relay was a little burned... assuming the relay coil shorted and burnt out or something. After I dropped in the new part, voila... dryer worked fine.

    Thanks again for having such a useful site both for advice, and to get the parts I need. Parts Dr is now officially my favorite appliance repair site.


    Also, FWIW, my dryer isn't quite the same model... it's Samsung model DV328AEW/XAA. But the advice here was spot on.
    Thanks for the update. Depending on how badly burned that wire coming out of the old control board was, you may need to cut off the burned portion of the wire and splice in a new section of wire (make sure the wire is the same size and specifications). If you don't fix the burned portion of the wire it will cause a higher amp draw and burn out the new control board.
    Ryan
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  11. #11
    Just joined the fun Front Loading Samsung Dryer Model DV220AEW/XAA. Unit is about 4 years old. Vents are clear, lint filter is changed every load, 240VAC verified as well as 120VAC legs. Powered off and unplugged and local breaker cycled.

    Symptom: Won't heat (suddenly...all 100% of 1000+ loads have heated). All other aspects work. For some reason the Cooling indicator is energized which basically makes the cycle end sooner too. For example, on manual dry, 40 mins on high heat after about 8-10 mins the unit Ends and there's no sign of heat.

    I haven't broken into it yet (just back from our end of year vacation. But tomorrow I want to pull the unit out and start troubleshooting. So I will start searching here on the forums but at this point I need some component locations and how to get to them.

    Thanks for any and all help in advance.
    Roy Niswanger

  12. #12
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by niswanger View Post
    Just joined the fun Front Loading Samsung Dryer Model DV220AEW/XAA. Unit is about 4 years old. Vents are clear, lint filter is changed every load, 240VAC verified as well as 120VAC legs. Powered off and unplugged and local breaker cycled.

    Symptom: Won't heat (suddenly...all 100% of 1000+ loads have heated). All other aspects work. For some reason the Cooling indicator is energized which basically makes the cycle end sooner too. For example, on manual dry, 40 mins on high heat after about 8-10 mins the unit Ends and there's no sign of heat.

    I haven't broken into it yet (just back from our end of year vacation. But tomorrow I want to pull the unit out and start troubleshooting. So I will start searching here on the forums but at this point I need some component locations and how to get to them.

    Thanks for any and all help in advance.
    Roy Niswanger
    Roy,

    The most common thing on these dryers that causes them not to heat is a bad heating element, so it would be a good idea to test that first. On most Samsung dryers you have to remove the top and front of the dryer to access these parts. See the link below for more information.

    http://partsdr.com/blog/samsung-dc97-14486a-heating-element-removal/
    Ryan
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  13. #13

    Samsung Heating Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Ryan View Post
    Roy,

    The most common thing on these dryers that causes them not to heat is a bad heating element, so it would be a good idea to test that first. On most Samsung dryers you have to remove the top and front of the dryer to access these parts. See the link below for more information.

    http://partsdr.com/blog/samsung-dc97-14486a-heating-element-removal/

    Doc Ryan,

    In December, our Samsung dryer suddenly stopped heating. Repair man replaced the heating coil. Old one looked burned out. The dryer worked fine after that...

    Until yesterday. Again, it stopped heating. Not 100% sure yet that it is the same issue, but it is the exact scenario as in December (just 6 months ago).

    I see from so many websites/forums that lint build up is often the cause of this problem. I clean the lint screen EVERY time I use the dryer as well as every few months vacuum down in the compartment for the lint tray. When we took the dryer apart in December we throughly vacuumed under, in, and around. Our vent goes directly from the dryer out the wall is sits on. 2'-3', rigid pipe. It is clean as well. In December, I accepted that lint build up may be the culprit since we had the dryer for about 5 years, but now? I can't believe that is the cause.

    Are there another known issues with Samsung that would cause the heating coil to go bad? My model number is DV5451AEW/XAA 01

    Thanks in advance!

  14. #14

    Wink Fixed!!!!

    I just wanted to express my thanks for PartsDr for this forum and their easy to follow instructions. It turns out my heating coil went after 8 years on my dryer....just don't make things like they used to ;-). Using the step by step instructions I ordered the part and was able to do the repair in about 30 minutes saving me hundreds! I didn't even shop around for the part cost.....to me this forum and the advise is worth my business. Thank you for your help....I really appreciate it and I will recommenced you to my customers who are do it yourself folks!

    -A store manager for Lowe's

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pander9 View Post
    I just wanted to express my thanks for PartsDr for this forum and their easy to follow instructions. It turns out my heating coil went after 8 years on my dryer....just don't make things like they used to ;-). Using the step by step instructions I ordered the part and was able to do the repair in about 30 minutes saving me hundreds! I didn't even shop around for the part cost.....to me this forum and the advise is worth my business. Thank you for your help....I really appreciate it and I will recommenced you to my customers who are do it yourself folks!

    -A store manager for Lowe's
    You're welcome! That is great to hear! Thank you for the referrals!
    Ryan
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  16. #16
    dv42h5200ef Does not heat.

    the items checked and come out good: Heater, high limit, thermal cut-off, thermister.

    We jumped the wire on the relay and it started heating, so thinking that was the problem we got the board which includes the relay & it still does not heat. BUT if we jump it still, it heats. (Blue to black wire on the relay)

    Am I missing something here? Is there anything else that would keep the Relay from working properly?

  17. #17
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by appliancebrat View Post
    dv42h5200ef Does not heat.

    the items checked and come out good: Heater, high limit, thermal cut-off, thermister.

    We jumped the wire on the relay and it started heating, so thinking that was the problem we got the board which includes the relay & it still does not heat. BUT if we jump it still, it heats. (Blue to black wire on the relay)

    Am I missing something here? Is there anything else that would keep the Relay from working properly?
    From what you described it sounds like the main control board is most likely bad.
    Ryan
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  18. #18
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    Hi,

    I am new to this forum. I have pretty much the same problem as the previous poster in that my Samsung dryer will not heat. All tests show element and thermal fuse, etc. are good. I receive 120 Vac on one wire at the element box, but 0 Vac on the other wire. The heater relay on the control board is not closing when the dryer is operating and the drum is turning. I removed the blue and black wire from the relay and confirm that 120 Vac is on the black wire. Resistance test on the relay contacts while the drum is turning show open circuit. I did not try shorting the two contacts yet. I replaced the pcb and the new one does the exact same thing. Is there something on these dryers that can prevent the relay from closing without showing an error code?

    Looking forward to your advice,

    ADDENDUM: I found out about the centrifugal switch on the motor on another thread. It looks like I may need a new motor, unless this switch is field replaceable.
    Last edited by Amplitech; 04-15-2016 at 12:07 PM. Reason: Found answer elsewhere on forum

  19. #19
    Hey posters/docs,

    Model: DV48H7400EW, just under 1 year old.

    Issue similar to above posters. I have checked input voltage and relay voltage, as well as continuity of thermostat, heater and the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I replaced the thermal fuse on the duct housing (the one mounted on the bracket) and that corrected the issue for ~half a load of laundry. After that load the same issue re-occurred. I just took the dryer back apart to check the continuity of the replaced thermal fuse and it had again been tripped and measured no continuity. I have checked the entire flow path and it is unobstructed, I am very diligent in cleaning the lint screen before every load and there is plenty of air flow coming out of duct outside of house.

    My question is what is causing the thermal fuse on the duct housing to fail this quickly? Is this an indicator that my control board needs to be replaced? I have read other posts saying that this is a common failure on this model, but I would like to have some sort of affirmation prior to spending ~$90 on a new control board. Additionally is there anything I can check (ohm-meter or otherwise) on the control board to see if there is some sort of fault present? Thanks in advance for any assistance that can be provided.

  20. #20
    I have a variation on the no heat problem. with our dryer the no heat problem comes and goes. in every case the dryer starts working again, usually the next day. my best shot at an explanation is that it is too sensitive to lint in the lint filter. when we clean the filter before running it seems to behave normally. is there some sort of safety device which trips and resets maybe a back pressure sensor?

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