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Thread: [FIXED] Samsung dryer runs, no lint clogs, good airflow, but no heat at all

  1. #21
    sorry. my dryer is DV42H5400

  2. #22
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sbluto View Post
    Hey posters/docs,

    Model: DV48H7400EW, just under 1 year old.

    Issue similar to above posters. I have checked input voltage and relay voltage, as well as continuity of thermostat, heater and the thermal fuse on the blower housing. I replaced the thermal fuse on the duct housing (the one mounted on the bracket) and that corrected the issue for ~half a load of laundry. After that load the same issue re-occurred. I just took the dryer back apart to check the continuity of the replaced thermal fuse and it had again been tripped and measured no continuity. I have checked the entire flow path and it is unobstructed, I am very diligent in cleaning the lint screen before every load and there is plenty of air flow coming out of duct outside of house.

    My question is what is causing the thermal fuse on the duct housing to fail this quickly? Is this an indicator that my control board needs to be replaced? I have read other posts saying that this is a common failure on this model, but I would like to have some sort of affirmation prior to spending ~$90 on a new control board. Additionally is there anything I can check (ohm-meter or otherwise) on the control board to see if there is some sort of fault present? Thanks in advance for any assistance that can be provided.
    With the fuse blowing this quickly you most likely either have a shorted heating element or a bad control board that is constantly sending power to the heating element. A quick test you can do is run the dryer on an air fluff (no heat) cycle and see if the dryer heats up. If it does then the heating element is shorted or the main control board is bad. The video below shows how to test the element. If you find the element is bad and shorted make sure to check your exhaust venting for restrictions.

    Ryan
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  3. #23
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eguetens View Post
    I have a variation on the no heat problem. with our dryer the no heat problem comes and goes. in every case the dryer starts working again, usually the next day. my best shot at an explanation is that it is too sensitive to lint in the lint filter. when we clean the filter before running it seems to behave normally. is there some sort of safety device which trips and resets maybe a back pressure sensor?
    The lint filter should be cleaned before every time you run the dryer. There are no pressure sensors, but the restriction in the airflow can cause the temperature to act differently than it normally would since the heat can't escape out the exhaust venting like it normally does.
    Ryan
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  4. #24
    c'mon Doc, cut me a break. this dryer heats sometimes and does not heat other times. there must be something that could be the cause. could one of the safety switches have an intermittent connection problem? Am I dealing with ET's?? you guys designed this abortion.

  5. #25
    i have a samsung dryer that gave me a code eh. i replaced the entire heating unit ie: thermostat, heating element the entire silver unit at bottom. I ran a voltage test 120 on top 120 on bottom still no heat. original part I removed had no breaks. what could the problem be. Any help would be appreciated.

  6. #26
    My dryer has not had a heating problem for about a month now. the only consistent thing is that if we forget to clean the lint filter every time (very little lint) it stops heating for about a day and then works normally again. There must be some sort of sensor on the air flow that turns off the heat and does not immediately reset. Otherwise we are dealing with an intermittent defect which is hard to believe.

  7. #27
    I have an issue with my Samsung front loader. My heating element went last year, replaced it. Now during Xmas it quick heating again, thought it was my heating element again. Replaced the thermal fuse because that was bad, replaced it. Now a week later and it stopped working again any ideas. I won't be able to take it apart until tomorrow night.

  8. #28
    Quote Originally Posted by appliancebrat View Post
    dv42h5200ef Does not heat.

    the items checked and come out good: Heater, high limit, thermal cut-off, thermister.

    We jumped the wire on the relay and it started heating, so thinking that was the problem we got the board which includes the relay & it still does not heat. BUT if we jump it still, it heats. (Blue to black wire on the relay)

    Am I missing something here? Is there anything else that would keep the Relay from working properly?
    What's the best way to jump the relay to see if this is the problem?

  9. #29
    I NEED HELP
    My dryer samsung DV42H5400GW/A3 (GAS) is not heating, checked the vents they are clean, changed Therm, thermistor and thermal fuse... still not heating.... what else can I do?? please HELP. BTW I'm not very savvy about this things, I just follow the videos to replace this parts.
    thank you guys.

  10. #30
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    Overheated or bad motor (possible thermal overload) could be the reason.

  11. #31
    Apologies if this question (or some variation of it) has already been asked or answered. My Samsung (model DV42H5200EW/A3) dryer stop producing heat. I bought a new heating element, and following YouTube instructions, replaced it. Dryer still doesn't produce heat. I set it on normal mode with a damp towel in there, and it runs but doesn't produce heat. It starts at a 48 minute cycle, then runs down to 47 minutes (after a minute, obviously), then jumps to 1 minute before shutting off. I'm assuming there is an issues with the thermometer/thermostat?

    I'm pretty sure I replaced the heating element correctly. There is a chance I put the wires on the heating element back on incorrectly (my smart phone died right when I got to the point where I needed to remove the contacts, so I didn't take a picture, but I did make a mental note; of course, there could always be human error). IF I put the contacts back on the heating element incorrectly, would anything have happened (shorted the system, etc.)?

    Thanks in advance.

  12. #32
    I am also having a similar issue with my DV219 Samsung Dryer. My heating element went out and I replaced it. Unfortunately the new element had a short in it that caused the element to fail. I replaced the element again and this time I got no heat. I replaced the thermostat because I was getting no resistance and the dryer ran with heat for about one cycle before the heat went out and the machine displayed "1" on the display.

    What other part could be going bad?

  13. #33
    Quote Originally Posted by Amplitech View Post
    Hi,

    I am new to this forum. I have pretty much the same problem as the previous poster in that my Samsung dryer will not heat. All tests show element and thermal fuse, etc. are good. I receive 120 Vac on one wire at the element box, but 0 Vac on the other wire. The heater relay on the control board is not closing when the dryer is operating and the drum is turning. I removed the blue and black wire from the relay and confirm that 120 Vac is on the black wire. Resistance test on the relay contacts while the drum is turning show open circuit. I did not try shorting the two contacts yet. I replaced the pcb and the new one does the exact same thing. Is there something on these dryers that can prevent the relay from closing without showing an error code?

    Looking forward to your advice,

    ADDENDUM: I found out about the centrifugal switch on the motor on another thread. It looks like I may need a new motor, unless this switch is field replaceable.
    I had the same thing. i replaced the control board and even talked to the local tech for 30 minutes with no luck. I finally found the one thing which can stop the heater relay from activating when everything else checked out ok. Every time I put a volt meter on Pin 5 & 6 of the Centrifugal Switch on the motor, the heater would come on. It finally dawned on me the meter was acting like a jumper and completing the circuit. Turns out the relay in the Centrifugal was bad and not completely the circuit which is somehow needed to trip the heater relay. I put a test jumper on the relay and ran a cycle and it worked fine. I am now just waiting for a new motor to come in. Hope this helps!

  14. #34
    Similar issues, and am at a loss now. I have a Samsung dv42h5200ep/a3 dryer that is not heating. I have verified the vent is clear, verified the correct voltage coming in to the unit, replaced the heating element, replaced the thermostat, replaced the thermal fuse on the heating element housing, replaced the thermistor. I have checked the relay on the main board, and it seems to be working correctly. I have actually checked the voltage on the heating element while the dryer is running, and have 120v on both legs, but still no heat. The dryer will not heat on any setting. One weird thing is that if I set it to a timed cycle of say 20 minutes, it will only run a few minutes and then goes into the cool down stage and ends the cycle. Please help with any suggestions...

  15. #35
    I am having heating troubles as well. I have a DV45H7000EW. I have already changed the heating element, thermistor and the other sensor. Breakers are good. What else could it be? Main control board possibly?

  16. #36
    First check the power with a meter.

    Try flipping the breaker off/on slowly a couple times. Sometimes you can loose half the line without actually tripping the breaker.
    Check the voltage at the wall receptacle
    L1 to L2 should be 240 volts
    L1 to Neutral and L2 to Neutral, both should be 120 volts.
    If OK
    Unplug the unit and check the wires at the terminal strip in the machine to make sure none are loose or burned out
    If OK
    Check the power at the terminal strip.
    Do this with the heater off and on.
    Be careful as 240 volts is lethal !!!

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