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Thread: Fridge Issues [FIXED]

  1. #1

    Fridge Issues [FIXED]

    Model Number: 52709100
    Brand: Sears Kenmore
    Age: 6-10 years

    I have a Sears Kenmore and I vacuumed the dust from underneith now it doesn't work. It sounds like the compressor engages for about 8 seconds but then shuts down. Both compartments are warm. Could I have knocked something loose when I vacuumed or could it just be broke? I don't smell anything like there was a freon leak but I'm open for ideas.
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Check to make sure you didn't bump and bend the condenser fan motor blade when you were vacuuming underneath. The condenser fan motor sits next to the compressor and dissipates heat from underneath/behind the refrigerator. If that fan motor doesn't run the compressor can start to overheat and not run properly. You should be able to access the condenser fan motor by removing the back panel from the refrigerator. Also, can you double check the model number for me? I think you are missing a few digits.
    Ryan
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  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Doc Ryan View Post
    Check to make sure you didn't bump and bend the condenser fan motor blade when you were vacuuming underneath. The condenser fan motor sits next to the compressor and dissipates heat from underneath/behind the refrigerator. If that fan motor doesn't run the compressor can start to overheat and not run properly. You should be able to access the condenser fan motor by removing the back panel from the refrigerator. Also, can you double check the model number for me? I think you are missing a few digits.
    The model # is 52709100. the fan runs fine. It turns on before the compressor and stays on. The only I can think of is I might have shorted something out. I was working on the wall and had to run it on an extension cord and it ran fine for a while ( a couple of days, I was doing electrical work also) I hooked up a small space heater in the same line. Could I have over drawn from the cord and the fridge not get the needed power and trip something? It's been unplugged and I just plugged it back in to see. What are your thoughts. PS the earlier email was from work. I get home after 5.
    Thanks

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Ok, I got your model to pull up by putting a 106 in front of the model number. So I believe the full model number is 106.52709100.

    On that model the most common thing that goes bad that causes the compressor not to start is the start device going bad. This part is on the side of the compressor and allows the compressor to run properly. When they go bad you will often hear the start device rattle, or get small grey/black specs that will fall out of it when you shake it. You can also test the start device with an ohm meter, they will read 6-8 ohms when they are good. When this goes bad you will hear the compressor try to start for 5-10 seconds, and then you will hear the overload "click" and it will stop for a few minutes until the overload resets and the compressor trys to start again.

    This is the start device and overload kit for you model refrigerator:

    Start Device Kit - 8201786

    Ryan
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  5. #5
    You might be right. I tapped it and got some sparkage. I'll take it off and check out the ohms. On the compressor it's a Embraco EG490HLP. It white and it's on the left side of the compressor as I'm lookinf at it from the opening in the rear.

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Its probably an EGY90HLP instead of EG490. Yes the white piece would be the start device & overload combination. You should not get any sparks coming from it, so it definitely sounds like it is bad. Give it the shake test when you take it off, and smell it to see if it smells burnt. You can test for 6-8 ohms on the bottom two terminals of the triangle shape that the 3 pin holes form, the top pin goes to the overload.
    Ryan
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  7. #7
    Is there an easy way to take it off? I don't want to tear anything up.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Before you try to remove it, make sure the refrigerator is unplugged. The start device is usually held on with either a metal clip, or a zip tie and then you just have to pull it off the compressor. Sometimes you can take a knife to pry between the start device and the compressor. They come off pretty easily in most cases. In a few rare occasions the start device destroys itself so badly that it literally welds itself onto the compressor terminals.
    Ryan
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  9. #9
    So the whole thing pops off so to speak. Cool. If it does break up in the extraction, can I damage the compressor?

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Yes, the whole thing pops off. It would be pretty hard to damage the compressor removing the start device.... I have never seen someone do it.
    Ryan
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  11. #11
    Doc, Looking closer at the part you showed me, it looks different than the part I pulled off. On mine it has the plugs on the back. Are you sure this is the right replacement part? And thank you for helping me with this. I sure hope this is the problem and I can fix it with this replacement part.

  12. #12
    I'm on break so I won't be able to reply till 12 eastern. If you're sure this is the correct part I will order it at that time. I saw it was reasonably priced too. I can afford $34. I just fixed my inlaws fridge with a new mother board and then to have mine blow up right after messed up. Thanks again for the help.

  13. #13
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I checked with the model number from your refrigerator that this kit is the correct one for your refrigerator. This picture might show the plugs that you are talking about better than the first picture I posted.

    Ryan
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  14. #14
    Doc Ryan, thanks again for your help. I just ordered your part. I'll let you know how it goes.
    Dave

  15. #15
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Sounds good Dave!
    Ryan
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  16. #16
    Doc the part arrived but it doesn't appear to be what I need. I've attached 2 pics of the part I pulled off and it wasn't covered by anything like what's in the box. It had a zip tie holding it in place. I guess I didn't buy a new fridge after all. But in case you can't open the pics the serial /part # is 4SP1001221219430 B02R. Let me know what you think. And how do I return this thing?

  17. #17

  18. #18
    Doc I think I figured it out. I was expecting a part similar to the one I pulled off, not attaching two pieces to make one. I have them attached and it running but is it cooling I'll find out in a few. I need to cut the cover because the blue wire won't wrap around to the factory opening.

  19. #19
    U da man! Thanks it's working. You want the left overs? I don't need em.

  20. #20
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Dave,

    Sorry I wasn't online earlier to help you out. It looks like you got it figured out though. Like you said, the replacement doesn't always look the same as the start device that is on the fridge. Your original start device had the overload and relay as one piece, and the replacement is a separate relay and overload. They both do the same functions.... just a little bit different way of doing it. I am glad you got it going! You can just throw those other parts away, or hang onto them as spare parts.
    Ryan
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