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Thread: Front Display Control Board WR55X10860

  1. #1

    Front Display Control Board WR55X10860

    Model Number: gsl25xgwa
    Brand: GE
    Age: 1-5 years

    Our fridge shut down and off--including the front display, ice maker and nightlight. Only the interior lights work. Repairman changed the main circuit board but it still wouldn't come on. He said the problem appeared to be the front display circuit board. My question is, will this board indeed shut down the entire fridge as described? And if not, what would?

  2. #2
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    I looked up your model and I think you are missing two digits at the end. I believe it is SS, but look to make sure. So the full model number should be gsl25xgwass.

    Does the refrigerator run/cool at all?

    The first thing to check for if the front dispenser board doesn't turn on, is the connector at the bottom of the door. Sometimes water will get on this connector and the corrosion will cause a bad connection or eat through a wire or two. The front display control board controls the ice dispenser, water dispenser, night light, and temperature settings on your model. So if that board doesn't turn on, then none of those functions will work properly. It is much more common for the main control board on the back side of the refrigerator to fail, but it is possible for the front display board to fail too.

    This is control board for you refrigerator:

    Front Display Control Board - Part # PD00000980 (mfg # WR55X10860)
    Ryan
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  3. #3
    Thanks Doc. Yes, the SS is at the end of the number. The repairman put in a new main circuit board and that didn't work. I checked the wires at the bottom of the door. They looked fine, but I couldn't disconnect the plug to check the connections inside of it. However, I do have a simple voltage "detector" which tells me that there is power to the front display control board. Since I don't have a meter, I don't know how much voltage. There seems to be power on both sides of the fuse and in the large white circuit things (fancy tech term), but still, the functions of the board don't work. I can't tell which wires are power in or power out.

  4. #4
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    You can look at the schematic, they usually hide it behind the bottom grill taped to the underside of the refrigerator. The schematic might give you some more information, but I don't think GE gives you the information to do voltage checks at that panel (they don't tell you which wires should read what voltages). If you could confirm that the board needs 120v or 12v to turn on, then you could determine that the board is bad. But in a case like yours, you might end up making an educated guess since GE doesn't provide that information (that I have seen).
    Ryan
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  5. #5
    You asked earlier if the unit would run/cool at all. No. There is a second plug wrapped around the frame under the front which isn't connected to anything. I figure it's not supposed to be connected. The repair man said something about the display board being low voltage and it "didn't seem" to be sending power to a switch. I wasn't paying close attention since I was expecting him to come back and fix it. It's a 90 min. trip for him (one way) and it's been two days now, so I don't think he's coming back. I'll probably end up buying that display board since it is also the "on/off" switch. I think I can just attach the connectors, snap it in and turn on the power.

  6. #6
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Some GE refrigerator models will have plugs that aren't connected to anything, so that is probably normal. I don't know for sure whether the front display board going bad can cause the whole refrigerator not to run. I would guess that it probably could.
    Ryan
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  7. #7
    Thanks for your input, Doc. I'll order that part and we'll know more soon. I did learn something while CLEANING OUT HUNDREDS OF DOLLARS WORTH OF RUINED FOOD. Some people might find this useful: Although the ice dispenser wasn't working and the fridge appeared dead, the heater in the ice maker was apparently still coming on from time to time. This caused the food to thaw completely in two day rather than the three to five days one would expect. I'll know next time to turn off the ice maker.

  8. #8
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Strange, I didn't think the ice maker heater was supposed to turn on unless the thermostat in the ice maker reaches a certain temperature. Maybe look into that in the future to make sure you don't have a defective ice maker. Keep me posted on if the front display control panel takes care of your problem.
    Ryan
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  9. #9
    Update: I received the control board, installed it and turned the power back on...nothing--no board lights, no sounds, still dead. But I left the power on. And two days later, during the night, the board lit up and the fridge came back to life--sorta. I had to turn the power back off because the electronics seemed out of sync and I didn't want to damage anything further. It sounded like the compressor was popping on and off every minute or so. Other clicks and sounds were coming from it. And although a cool spot developed in the freezer, nothing else happened. Although the freezer temp was about 65, the control panel read -9 for the freezer which is odd because the settings only go down to -6. The panel would not turn the unit off. There was no longer an "off." But the night light, water dispenser and the ice maker motor now work again. And that's about it for this round.

  10. #10
    Admin/Technician Doc Ryan's Avatar
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    Very strange results that you are seeing. It sounds to me like there is another component that is also bad that is causing it to act up. Where did the clicking sounds come from?
    Ryan
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